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Post by calibuild on Apr 15, 2017 18:50:26 GMT
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner.. You can get a new gasket at an auto store.. Do you have a good ground for the wires there by the throttle body. All vac hoses on tight both ends none uncapped.. Intake tube tight no leaks.. Pull connectors on the PCM on/off a few times to clean them make sure all pins seated and none popped loose.. Nice job on the fuel filler.. Thanks Gwnwar. Tried cleaner the throttle body, checked the line to make sure it wasn't too tight. Tried a couple national chains, neither had the gasket.... although the gasket doesn't look bad. Here are the instructions for the error code. How do you check for continuity between Terminal B and the PCM/ECU? I've used a multi-meter to verify 12 volts are reaching the end of the plug on the hot wire (in my case, orange), but I don't know how to test steps 4 and 5.   |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 15, 2017 21:42:00 GMT
Use the OHM part of your multi-meter. Set to ohm touch the +/- leads together you should have a 0.00 reading.. If not use the adjuster knob to 0.00 it out. That is the reading you should get when you probe the wire at the Terminal B and same color wire at the PCM..
This is the same way to check for a good ground of ground wires to the frame/engine..
Don't know if your auto store can cross check part numbers..
Felpro # 60984
Beck Arnley # 039-5059
You have jumped the Ten and Grd in Dia box and adjusted the idle right..
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Post by calibuild on Apr 16, 2017 0:03:17 GMT
Use the OHM part of your multi-meter. Set to ohm touch the +/- leads together you should have a 0.00 reading.. If not use the adjuster knob to 0.00 it out. That is the reading you should get when you probe the wire at the Terminal B and same color wire at the PCM.. This is the same way to check for a good ground of ground wires to the frame/engine.. Don't know if your auto store can cross check part numbers.. Felpro # 60984 Beck Arnley # 039-5059 You have jumped the Ten and Grd in Dia box and adjusted the idle right..
Excellent! Did just as said, connections go to 0 so the continuity looks good for both wires.
The TEN to GRND, yes, tried that before, but per your suggestion, tried it again and still no dice there.
If I block off the IAC holes, so no air can get through the IAC at idle, and my is unchanged, would that prove that I have an air leak? I had it smoke tested and didn't find any leaks, but wondering if there was a small hole i just didn't see or something.
Update: blocking off the throttle body with the IAC open, and the TEN to GRND jumped gets the idle down to 850. As soon as the jumper wire is removed it goes back to 1150.
Update 2: Some how, some way, the CEL has gone away.... it idles low after driving, then if the car sits for a couple seconds it makes it's way back up to 1150 RPMs....... I'll take it for now  |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 16, 2017 4:10:32 GMT
Sounds like an air leak.. Just spit balling.. Just wondering what did you do with the wiring for the AC switch and relay.. Maybe something is tripping the PCM to think AC is on and to raise idle.
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Post by calibuild on Apr 20, 2017 20:49:42 GMT
Well........... drove 2 hours for the same Referee station as Russ872 and.... they decided that today they'd enforce the SeanW set of rules  Looks like they want safety glass for the windshield and wipers. Technically they deferred the decision to Sacramento, and the Ref said it's just what they decide they want to enforce. Not sure how I'll figure those out. Presumably the glass is the easy part if I can find a manufacturer After 4 hours of driving, couple comments: Seats: Corbeau A4's with 1 inch pad trimmed. Very comfortable, definitely recommend if you're looking for an adjustable seat Transmission Tunnel: the heat shield is fantastic. It gets warm to the touch, but never "hot". Highly recommend Steering: I have the NRG hub with a 350mm steering wheel. For me, these are great. The steering wheel does make it a little hard to see the turn signals the speedometer at 70-80 mph, but I like it. Think most standard wheels are 380, with race at 320. If you're driving far, ear plugs for the road noise (other cars) would have been good, and a face scarf / shield was really nice. Those more come into play over 50 mph. |
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Post by phocup on Apr 21, 2017 4:56:13 GMT
That sucks. I was hoping SoCal would be a bit more lax with the wipers. Did they want fenders too ?
Maybe you can get in contact with Russ's glass guy for your windshield.
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Post by dnr on Apr 21, 2017 21:52:17 GMT
Do you think you could cut the windshield and wiper assembly from a donor and weld on some brackets to attach it the frame?
russ872, I saw your car at autocross and I was inspired to take on this project myself. Picked up a 2003 Miata at a salvage auction and ordered the kit this week.
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Post by calibuild on Apr 22, 2017 0:00:49 GMT
That sucks. I was hoping SoCal would be a bit more lax with the wipers. Did they want fenders too ? Maybe you can get in contact with Russ's glass guy for your windshield. Hey Phocup - Fenders aren't required. The windshield made out of safety glass, technically is the law, as are wipers. Technically you need 2 wipers, with 2 speeds, 1 at over 45 "wipes" per minute, the other speed needs to be at least 15 wipes slower per minute. I get why it's the law, it just seems silly as there's 0 chance I'm ever driving in the rain. As far is cutting the windshield, maybe you could, but I'm not sure it's the best solution and it may depend on your chassis. With the full roll cage, you can do something like SeanW. With just the sport, you'd need a different bezel than the Exocet bezel because that's straight while the miata windshield is curved. The wipers are a different ball game i haven't figure out yet as I'd like a reasonably eloquent solution. |
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Post by dnr on Apr 22, 2017 0:18:39 GMT
As far is cutting the windshield, maybe you could, but I'm not sure it's the best solution and it may depend on your chassis. With the full roll cage, you can do something like SeanW. With just the sport, you'd need a different bezel than the Exocet bezel because that's straight while the miata windshield is curved. I was suggesting cutting the entire windshield, frame and connected wiper/wiper motor mounting out of the donor. You could probably fab some clamps to attach it to the Exocet frame. Obviously it would look ridiculous and the ref might find it to be against the spirit of the rules since you could just remove it after passing the test. I'm thinking I might try this when it's time to do mine. |
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Post by darkling on Apr 22, 2017 0:18:44 GMT
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Post by SeanW on Apr 22, 2017 6:00:08 GMT
I meant to reply earlier on this but here goes... I'm not going to lie, getting my windshield and wipers done wasn't cheap, I spent over $1K putting it all together. Wasn't something that I'd budgeted for at all but now that I kind of know what I'm doing I could do it less expensively since I wouldn't be throwing parts at the problem to see what sticks. Save yourself time, money, and hassle by just ordering the Exomotive frame without glass and have a local shop cut and mount it in the frame for you. For windshield wipers, get a clamp-on motorized wiper from SpeedWay. ( Or Ebay, for that matter - www.ebay.com/itm/1932-36-Ford-Roadster-Phaeton-Q-Mount-W-S-Wiper-Kit-/252661543209?hash=item3ad3cd3129 ) Should be able to clamp to the glass and work quite well. From my experience, you only need one wiper to be powered, get a clamp-on manual wiper and connect the two with a linkage. (See my build thread) Alternately, I can work up clamp that will affix my wiper setup to a 1/4" thick sheet of safety glass and you can borrow my wiper set from me. It plugs into the cigarette lighter and flips on with a switch. Single speed. I never saw in the rules where they said that the wipers had to be two speeds, just that there needed to be two of them unless the single wiper covered 80% of the screen in a single wipe and wasn't manually operated. (I don't recall the exact wording.) Is that something that they told you directly? |
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Post by calibuild on Apr 22, 2017 20:05:22 GMT
Thanks for the detailed reply SeanW, your post are always very helpful. I'm currently waiting to here back from BAR via Sacramento on what specific changes are required. For California based builders, here's the technical requirements. I'd stress that BAR seems to use them more as guidelines, so take it for you will. California law which also references the FMVSS in terms of wipers, speeds etcetera which is hereFor the windshield my initial solution is likely to order it from a glass table manufacturer. Safety glass is just tempered glass, and since the Exocet bezel is straight, it makes that simpler. In the meantime decided might as well do the fenders. Appreciate the insight on how to get the front dust shields off, and now have 2 more questions. 1) How do the rear dust shields get removed, as they don't appear to bolted in (bottom left picture) Update: Looks like the rear dust shields don't need to be removed per this thread 2) How do you know which bracket is the correct bracket for the front fender (top picture)? The picture is front driver side, the foremost bracket is easy, but not sure which one to use on the rear bracket.... the one I'm holding on the left or right? Maybe it'd be more obvious if I had the rear dust shield off.  |
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Post by dnr on Apr 22, 2017 21:10:26 GMT
Hopefully tempered glass is ok. Front windshields on cars are laminate glass, a sandwich of glass and vinyl. That prevents objects from flying through and shards of glass from flying into your eyes. I think they are not tempered so that you can still see through the windshield if it cracks. All the other windows are tempered.
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Post by SeanW on Apr 23, 2017 14:06:07 GMT
For the windshield my initial solution is likely to order it from a glass table manufacturer. Safety glass is just tempered glass, and since the Exocet bezel is straight, it makes that simpler. Just make sure that whomever cuts your glass uses laminated automotive safety glass. The REF will check to make sure that the windshield has it's safety rating stamped/etched on it. (AS-1 for windshields, AS-2 for side and rear windows.) One option I explored for my race frame was buying a flat Jeep CJ windshield and having it cut. You can pick them up for as little $90, new. I didn't find out what it would cost to have the windscreen professionally cut down since I changed routes on the build of my windshield. For example, here's some jeep glass for $90 before shipping: www.morris4x4center.com/glass-windshield-ppr-304741075.html?gclid=CJih2vbcutMCFZBlfgodItEOPgInitially I was really annoyed at needing to have a windshield on my Exocet but I've really come to like it from a driving experience. It makes the car much more liveable day to day. It has already protected me from being hit by a couple of pretty large rocks kicked up by other cars and trucks on the road. At this point, I honestly can't imagine my Exocet not have some form of windscreen on it. It sucks that they BAR seems to be completely arbitrary on what they enforce, how and when. |
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Post by SeanW on Apr 23, 2017 14:29:35 GMT
And because I've now started to research it again, if you're interested in trying your hand at cutting the glass yourself it doesn't actually look to be all that hard to do. I'm probably going to give this a shot when I do the second version of my windscreen. (I want my windscreen to look more bespoke to my car than like some VW parts I found and bolted on!  ) www.secondchancegarage.com/public/149.cfm |
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Looks like they want safety glass for the windshield and wipers. Technically they deferred the decision to Sacramento, and the Ref said it's just what they decide they want to enforce. 
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