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Post by jason82 on May 15, 2018 6:59:45 GMT
Looking again at your photo of the charcoal canister, it appears substantially smaller than the Mazda one, I know why you have chosen it, space, the ultimate kit car builders arch enemy ! I wonder if the internal capacity plays an issue ? As in the smaller tank does not have time to do it's job & just dumps everything straight through it giving the problem you are having ?
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Post by snowbird1 on May 15, 2018 14:12:30 GMT
The way the system usually works is that the ECU will close the valves and monitor the tank pressure sensor while the engine is running, if it 'sees' no change in pressure over a period of time it will flag a 'large leak' fault. Once it passes that test it will close the valves and check that it can hold pressure for the 'small leak' test.
Have you smoke tested the system with the valves driven closed?
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Post by jason82 on May 28, 2018 8:07:46 GMT
Hi, I have just found this trouble shooting guide from the Miata forum, this shows exactly how to test the system.
Info found on mx-5miata.net
I'm looking at page F-131 of my FSM, and the purge solenoid valve gets a duty signal from the "barometric absolute pressure sensor" section of the ECU to determine whether or not the valve opens.
In order for purging to take place, the car has to be warmed up, moving in gear, accelerator pedal depressed (idle switch off) and the heated oxygen sensor functioning normally.
The signals the ECU uses to tell the valve to open come from the TPS(idle switch), O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, neutral/clutch switch, MAS, and CAS.
To test it, it says to remove the connector and apply 12v and ground directly to the valve, and air should flow through it.
Keep in mind your OBDII stuff might be a little different than mine, but I'm sure it's at least as complicated. Hope this helps.
Credit goes to :
Bruce Edwards
Fifth gear
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oxford, AR Black '94 A
I really hope that this helps you !
Kind regards
Jas
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Post by calibuild on May 28, 2018 17:34:13 GMT
The way the system usually works is that the ECU will close the valves and monitor the tank pressure sensor while the engine is running, if it 'sees' no change in pressure over a period of time it will flag a 'large leak' fault. Once it passes that test it will close the valves and check that it can hold pressure for the 'small leak' test. Have you smoke tested the system with the valves driven closed? Hey Snowbird1 - thanks again! Think, I may have, hopefully, possibly fixed it? Ha I'll post below what I did. Seems to be working... although I now have a P0421 that came out of nowhere! Uggghhh |
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Post by calibuild on May 28, 2018 17:34:43 GMT
Hi, I have just found this trouble shooting guide from the Miata forum, this shows exactly how to test the system. Info found on mx-5miata.net I'm looking at page F-131 of my FSM, and the purge solenoid valve gets a duty signal from the "barometric absolute pressure sensor" section of the ECU to determine whether or not the valve opens. In order for purging to take place, the car has to be warmed up, moving in gear, accelerator pedal depressed (idle switch off) and the heated oxygen sensor functioning normally. The signals the ECU uses to tell the valve to open come from the TPS(idle switch), O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, neutral/clutch switch, MAS, and CAS. To test it, it says to remove the connector and apply 12v and ground directly to the valve, and air should flow through it. Keep in mind your OBDII stuff might be a little different than mine, but I'm sure it's at least as complicated. Hope this helps. Credit goes to : Bruce Edwards Fifth gear Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oxford, AR Black '94 A I really hope that this helps you ! Kind regards Jas
Wow! You're awesome. Thanks for the input. Here's what I tried. Ran a hose from the front canister catch tank to the rear, and spliced it into the line that goes into the charcoal box. This effectively returns those lines to "stock", even though the charcoal box is DIY. Hypothesis being, when the purge solenoid valve up front opened, the rear sensor (post charcoal box) expected something to flow through which wasn't happening. Thus, large evap leak, P0455.
Drove the car, a few times, suddenly really annoying clicking sound anytime other than idle. Turns out, my new Purge Solenoid Valve was clicking like crazy anytime I had the gas pedal pressed. Swapped back on my old Solenoid Valve (I was shotgunning parts at one point to fix P0455, nothing wrong with the old valve) and the clickling immediately went away.
Need to drive it some more, but so far things "seem" okay....... expect that I then suddenly threw a P0421 Warm up catalyst system effciency below threshold. I eliminated the 1999 Cali Cat, with the 01 Header Swap, so very confused.
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Post by calibuild on Jun 24, 2018 17:50:50 GMT
P0421, warm up catalyst below threshold is the new bane of the donor. Both O2 sensors seem to check out okay (ohms and voltage). Swapped the pre-cat for the 01 header, so it can't be the pre-cat. Have been driving it for sometime without the issue, making it hard to believe that the exhaust has 'suddenly' sprung a leak.
Has anyone else experienced this? Will try to smoke test the header next weekend and the down pipe...
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Post by calibuild on Jul 1, 2018 19:16:16 GMT
Continued trouble shooting P0421... smoke tested and this middle gasket just before the rear catalytic converter is leaking. I had purchased this gasket from the auto parts store as their system had this as the part... but it doesn't fit and thus tried making my own with RTV. Does anyone know, is the proper gasket here just a donut? Trying to avoid playing guess and check.
~~~~~~~
Update: Found a diagram on Rock Auto and below are 2 part numbers both for the same part. Most the auto stores seem to list the wrong part number, and a lot of the miata forums have users with similar issues but no correct part numbers listed.
Walker 31374 Ansa HW9027
I don't endorse either of the above, just an FYI. Hoping to get it and install next week.
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Post by calibuild on Nov 6, 2018 15:47:24 GMT
Hi All - looking for a bit of collective wisdom. My speedometer always reads about 10 mph high. So it says 50 mph, when the car is actually doing 40. I'm pretty sure a former owner must have changed the speed sensor gear. A new speed sensor seems to run $100+, when all I really need is the plastic gear on the end. Any idea what the gear is called (green gear in the pic), or if it can be bought separately?  |
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Post by calibuild on May 18, 2020 14:13:20 GMT
This car has brought me more smiles per gallon and is the most fun car I've ever driven or been a part of. Unfortunately different priorities have arisen and it's time to pass this wonderful automotive masterpiece on. It is registered in California and 100% street legal. Details: Exocet Sport Chassis 1999 Miata Donor (best compression ratio) Powder coated semi-gloss black Orange body panels 5 speed manual 99 to 01 header swap (less weight, better flow) Seats Corbeau A4 seats mounted to double locking sliders 5 point racing harness (3 inch shoulder and hip straps, 2 inch crotch strap) Quick release buckle Steering NRG quick release Momo steering wheel Rims are light weight 15x8 JNC rims Brake lights are LED Magnaflow dual exhaust Other items: Powder coated rear mounts for the APR style rear wing are included, not pictured (you can purchase the wing if you desire) Matching orange rip stop nylon seat covers as pictured to keep seats clean Speedometer does over estimate the speed 10 mph as the donor had 17 inch rims etcetera. Never changed the speedometer gear because it's a $100 part, and doesn't matter Fenders will bump the tires when going over large bumps at higher speeds (fenders are removable) Rip stop nylon phone holder Upon receipt of payment, you will receive a bill of sale, signed title, and keys. Located in Torrance CA, 90505. Any additional questions, feel free to ask.  |
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Post by deviousmindz on May 25, 2020 21:55:40 GMT
Price?
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Post by calibuild on May 26, 2020 1:47:02 GMT
Hi Deviousmindz - sent a DM.
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Post by calibuild on Jun 26, 2020 17:30:47 GMT
Sold!
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