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Post by greg on May 12, 2016 13:22:07 GMT
Use the harbor freight ball joint tool to push the studs in. Or if you have it out of the car some press. Also be aware that many replacement hubs have slightly different bore sizes for the studs. They may be close enough to force, but it should only be a .005" interference fit. On my timken and Dorman hubs I had to drill them. Oem you should be fine. Same with my Koyos. Seems no one can properly manufacture rear hubs for a Miata.... |
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Post by greg on May 12, 2016 13:23:04 GMT
Or, you can use a lug nut and appropriate size washers to 'pull' each stud in. Don't do this. Too much stress on the threads. Ball joint tool is the best method. |
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Post by colin on May 19, 2016 21:22:04 GMT
Got some good work done over the weekend. Replaced my clutch master cylinder and did the slave cylinder and line as well while I was at it. Pretty easy access to everything with the Exocet. Installed the ARP wheel studs. I borrowed a big ball joint press tool from O'Reilly's and made quick work on the front. The rears were a little trickier. Because the flange in the back got in the way of the big C press, I ended up ordering a $20 universal ball joint tool off Amazon. I kept expecting it to snap as I pushed the new studs in but it held up like a champ. Also, passed my Brake and Light inspection this morning. Next step is to head to the BAR. Old ones out.  New ones in!  Tool from Amazon for the rears. (GearWrench 3916D Universal Ball Joint Separator) 
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Post by Trenon on May 23, 2016 0:35:21 GMT
Although somewhat frowned upon a sharp blow with a hammer has removed many a wheel studs. Use 2 pieces of wood, one with a hole it it to brace the hub, the other to protect the threads on the stud.
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Post by colin on May 23, 2016 16:37:51 GMT
Although somewhat frowned upon a sharp blow with a hammer has removed many a wheel studs. Use 2 pieces of wood, one with a hole it it to brace the hub, the other to protect the threads on the stud. The ball joint tool worked super well and I'm sure I'll find uses for it in the future. I've heard of people ruining their bearings hammering on the studs. Replacing the rear bearings sounds like a lot more work than pressing studs in and out. $20 well spent in my opinion. Anyone in the Bay Area is welcome to borrow it if replacing theirs. |
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Post by colin on Jun 10, 2016 21:26:19 GMT
I had my BAR inspection this morning. Everything went well, all they cared about was that I had my paperwork, that I built it myself, and that I had a PCV valve. Unfortunately the main guy was not there today so they took photos and sent them to him for approval. They called back a couple hours later saying I'm approved, but I need to come back in to get my stickers attached. Next available appointment, July 6th... Looks like I'm on my temp tag a little longer.
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Post by steadfast on Jun 11, 2016 3:41:50 GMT
Congrats, last big step!
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Post by colin on Jul 7, 2016 17:51:54 GMT
Just left the DMV with my new license plates in hand!!! The SB100 registration was a lot of hoops to jump through and not everyone really seemed to understand what they were doing. I ended up having to get a couple things corrected, but everyone throughout the process was very friendly and helpful. My advice to anyone going through the process is to relax and be patient. If anything is entered wrong it can always be corrected.  |
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Post by colin on Jul 18, 2016 16:52:06 GMT
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Post by zeitgeist on Jul 18, 2016 20:59:19 GMT
Colin what camber are you running and tire pressures? I am in the same boat after 3 trackdays with no rear bar and tire pressures on my RE71R at 23 rear and 22.5 front. My rear camber was 1.9 but I lowered the ride height some since the alignment. Haven't taken tire temps since but by feel and before lowering the insides were already hottest.
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Post by colin on Jul 18, 2016 21:28:46 GMT
Hey Zeitgeist! I'm running R888s (225 width) at 21.5 psi front, 20 psi rear. I kept taking camber out as the inside was always hotter than the outside of the tire. I'm currently at -0.5º front and rear. I took some videos of the suspension during my runs with the GoPro and I think I definitely need some stiffer suspension. I'm debating between the Vmaxx Stage 2 Sport or Track options from FM. (Currently I'm stock suspension)
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Post by zeitgeist on Jul 19, 2016 21:49:49 GMT
Thanks. I am surprised you are that low on neg camber front and rear with stock suspension. I am running standard Vmaxxs and the front is pretty even for wear and temps at 2.3 neg camber if I recall. I will say I am quite happy with standard Vmaxx coil overs for ride and track use. Time to check the alignment and ride heights properly, then likely take out some neg camber in the rear. After that if the rear isn't perfect I will play with reducing the damping some at the rear but it is getting close to perfect for feel,balance and lots of grip.
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Post by colin on Sept 26, 2016 23:30:35 GMT
I ran the 2 mile Thunderhill West track for the first time this past weekend. Other than it being over 100 degrees the day was a ton of fun!!! This track definitely suits the Exocet. A little tighter and a lot more turns than some of the other tracks here in California. Here are a couple laps from the day. I forgot to calibrate the accelerometer, so the G readings are rotated about 30 degrees. Enjoy the video!  |
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Post by steadfast on Sept 27, 2016 3:30:43 GMT
Are you using a better GPS sensor for fast refresh, or using your standard iphone/android?
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Post by colin on Sept 27, 2016 18:28:35 GMT
Just the iPhone. (Go Apple!) I'm sure the data isn't as accurate as it could be, but there is still plenty of improvement I need as a driver before I'm going to start worrying about GPS latency.
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