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Post by tonysoprano on Jun 17, 2015 6:58:35 GMT
California cars FTW! My donor was a '94 life long Cali car. Like your donor, not a hint of rust to be found anywhere on the car. I didn't struggle with a single fastener during the deconstruct. I felt pangs of guilt when I tore the car apart. I wish I found a wrecked car for a donor.
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Post by Luke Anker on Jun 17, 2015 15:21:08 GMT
Wow! You caught up to me alarmingly quick! I think it's going to be a mad dash to see who finishes their's first haha. What chassis # are you? I'm #142.
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Post by steadfast on Jun 17, 2015 16:13:18 GMT
Agreed, CA donors still have virgin metal, untouched by even the slightest hint of rust. Here was my donor, which looked like this everywhere:  |
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Post by Luke Anker on Jun 17, 2015 16:31:56 GMT
Haha so true, we are enormously spoiled out here with the quality of rust free metal. I never even had to fire up the wirewheel once for subframe prep haha.
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Post by jon on Jun 17, 2015 23:36:33 GMT
Dang, i am so envious of your lack of rust. Ive been cutting most suspension bolts out, wrecked my subframe, and have to redo everything to make it look halfway decent.
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Post by colin on Jun 18, 2015 23:43:31 GMT
Engine is up on the engine stand ready to be tackled when I get some more free time. But in the mean time I'm starting to tear apart the sub-frames getting them ready to paint. The PPF brace is a head ache to get off. I've got the Haynes Manual and saw some advice on other's build threads so I think my plan is solid. But seriously, M14 1.5 pitch? Couldn't they chose something I could find at Home Depot? Or better yet, steal from some other part of the car? I feel a little ridiculous ordering one bolt off McMaster. (At least they didn't make it some weird thread pattern and sell a specialty tool to pull it out.) Engine ready to be worked on.  Need to get these two apart. Not as easy as I thought it would be.  I need to pull out the piece underneath that front captive nut, but not knock it free? Glad I read the manual when it was sticking instead of just getting a bigger hammer.  |
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Post by colin on Jul 13, 2015 17:29:26 GMT
Just found out my chassis number: #145. Sounds like they are currently working on #132 so I've still got a bit of a wait.
I'm working on disassembling the subframes for painting but I'm having trouble getting the drive axels out of the diff. Am I really just supposed to pry them out? I've put a fair bit of force on them and no movement. (1997 donor fyi)
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Post by Luke Anker on Jul 13, 2015 17:44:59 GMT
Hey! You're right behind me  Im 142!!! |
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Post by colin on Jul 22, 2015 21:10:22 GMT
Just got my FM engine rebuild kit in the mail. (Minus bearings since they were back ordered until who knows when.) Time to start tearing the engine apart.
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Post by steadfast on Jul 22, 2015 23:01:42 GMT
Let me know if you want to borrow the FM tools. I have all of them, and it makes the job really easy.
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 23, 2015 5:57:58 GMT
With both bolts out some have pried the PPF from the bottom side out enough to pop the top off the pusher up sleeve.. Have you tried using the bolt for the front top upper control arm inner mount..don't mess it up though..
Try sanding the rust off and spraying the sleeve and moving/tapping it down..Don't mess up the sleeve lower 3/8" that has to move down..
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Post by colin on Aug 18, 2015 16:43:16 GMT
I've got the engine stripped down to just the block, honed, pressure washed, degreased, and painted with brand new engine enamel. Looks like the easy part is over (disassembly), time to start trying to put everything back together.  The only debate that I'm having right now is around some scratches I put in the cylinders. I was using a ridge reamer that I rented from O'riley to remove the carbon ridge that had built up above the cylinders. After I got them out I realized it had left some deep scratches around the top of the cylinder. I tried honeing the cylinders to get rid of the scratches, but they were pretty deep and I didn't want to hone too aggressively. Trying to decide if I get the cylinders bored and get new corresponding oversized pistons or just re-assemble as is. I know what I really should do, but... |
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Post by Luke Anker on Aug 18, 2015 18:19:16 GMT
Hey Colin!
Shoot a picture of these scratches so we can see the depth of them as it will provide a literal picture of the situation. haha.
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Post by colin on Aug 18, 2015 22:22:31 GMT
Here is the scratching that I was talking about. This is after going at it with the hone fairly aggressively.  Closeup of the scratches. 
BTW: Lankers that profile pic is awesome! |
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Post by JIDiesel on Aug 18, 2015 23:23:15 GMT
Here is the scratching that I was talking about. This is after going at it with the hone fairly aggressively. Closeup of the scratches.
BTW: Lankers that profile pic is awesome! Looks like ring damage from the oil ring, high mileage on the engine block? Might be worth boring the block and running +1 over-sized. Very clean photo. |
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Im 142!!!
