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Post by timbo on Jul 23, 2016 17:39:54 GMT
Another couple of jobs in progress: Headlights: Obviously not finished yet but you get the idea. Mirrors: Will use a similar idea for the side repeaters. Wiring also coming along so I decided to try starting her this afternoon. No joy. Cranked but didn't start. Checked battery, fuel, fuses, earth points but it seemed to be a fuel problem as I couldn't hear the fuel pump on Ignition 2, nor did there seem to be any in the glass fuel filter. Some of the electrics worked eg full beam, hazard lights, but not the indicators themselves. Everything important seemed to be connected apart from this one at the bottom: I had labelled it but the labelling had rubbed off so not sure if this is important or not? I was going to try replacing the yellow fuel pump relay but any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks Tim
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Post by dave on Jul 23, 2016 18:08:51 GMT
Where did you get the headlight bar from?
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Post by timbo on Jul 23, 2016 18:57:54 GMT
The headlight bar is a piece of aluminium tube from ebay, OD 25mm with wall thickness just over 6mm. Then because I'm useless at putting a thread in aluminium, I've inserted part of a gear-stick extension rod (Ebay again, quite cheap as from China) as it has a handy M10 x 1.5 internal thread, secured through the middle with an M4 bolt to stop it rotating. I also replaced the welded tab with my own bracket to ensure it sits at 90 degrees. I'm contemplating replacing the M4 bolt and using the hole to attach the front indicators so they will hang below the bar. Tbh its been more work than I intended
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 24, 2016 6:45:37 GMT
What glass filter are you using. I would change it to a full metal unit.. Have you tried jumping the F/P and Gnd. pins in the Dia box that should start the fuel pump.. If it doesn't start looking at the wiring.. are the black wires at the fuel tank grounded to the frame. check with OHM meter. on the circuit open relay need power on W/R from ECU..Check that run also it also powers your CAS W/R.. Is your AFM pluged in and the black wire to ground check with OHM meter.. As for the connector is that a black and a blue wire?? If so washer fluid sensor. Check that blue wire to the gauge cluster blue wire with OHM meter. if 0.00 reading you have what it is..
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Post by timbo on Jul 24, 2016 13:55:12 GMT
Many thanks for your helpful suggestions, gwnwar. I have tried jumping F/P and grd in the diagnostic box but no joy. Checked fuel tank and AFM ground wires all fine. White/red has power to both circuit open relay and CAS.
So I tried measuring each wire on the circuit open relay. Ground is fine on continuity test. Light green and White-Red both 12V on Ignition 2. Violet gets to about 8V when Ignition is switched to start. Nothing out of the Blue-red (to fuel pump) at all.
So I'm guessing its the circuit opening relay. Would this also account for the fact that the fuel pump won't work from the diagnostic plug jump??
Thanks Tim
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 24, 2016 19:24:52 GMT
Have you checked the L/R from relay to the fuel pump for continuity. If no good there is a connector was is foot well for front to rear harness. Have you checked the ground pins in the Dia. box to ground..They ground at the main point under brake master. This connector comes apart to clean each wire.
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Post by timbo on Jul 29, 2016 17:44:50 GMT
Thanks again, gwnwar. Checked your points again then re-tried jumping the F/P and GRD in the diagnostic box, and after fixing a loose ignition wire from a previous owner's effort to install an immobiliser, after several attempts ...
... it spluttered into life. Hurrah!!
I ran it for about 30 seconds and it seemed to run fine. Tried without the F/P jump and wouldn't start, hence have ordered a new relay. Then started on removing all the wiring I don't need. Slow afternoon, as I have traced back every single wire before chopping it out, but getting there gradually.
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Post by p5curly on Aug 1, 2016 14:40:59 GMT
Hi Tim do you have a clear pic of your mounting of the front brake flexi pipes to the chassis please
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Post by timbo on Aug 1, 2016 18:42:39 GMT
Sorry, not a great pic, but here is the o/s bracket: You can't quite see but the bracket has a double-bend in it, so that the connection is actually directly below the chassis rail. I spent some time checking the flexi pipes wouldn't foul on full lock but I won't be fully happy until the IVA man passes it!! Let me know if you want some more detailed pics. Cheers Tim
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Post by p5curly on Aug 1, 2016 22:10:13 GMT
Cheers for that
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Post by timbo on Aug 8, 2016 10:31:41 GMT
Wiring has gone from: to: Not finished yet but I thought I would test all the lights etc before I batten it down. (Maybe I should have done this before wrapping the loom back up but hey ho). Finished off the bonnet catches and dash pod mount as well:
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Post by p5curly on Aug 8, 2016 10:41:32 GMT
Looking really good mate
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Post by freshp5 on Aug 8, 2016 18:01:25 GMT
Look good like the colour
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Post by timbo on Aug 14, 2016 18:43:37 GMT
Thanks guys. Managed to get all the front lights working today: Only one small hiccup when the O/S dipped and main beam wouldn't work, but soon traced it back to an earth I had chopped out. Also put in a couple of wires in case I add front fog lights after IVA. Also managed to get the brakes bled. Next is the clutch and the cooling system.
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Post by timbo on Aug 22, 2016 18:04:58 GMT
All the rear lights tested and working. Miket - maybe your lights are wired the other way round but I tried using red for the brakes and it didn't work. Swapped it over so red = side-lights/number plate lights and it seemed to work.
Now the only thing not working is the tell-tale light for the hazards. I have 12V coming in to the savage switch and the hazard lights themselves work fine so I am suspecting a problem with the switch itself.
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