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Post by erik on Jul 19, 2013 9:56:22 GMT
no teacher. We are lucky this brand has a forum build by costumers with various insights and build options to chose from. worth reading their effort and make up your choice. Would be nice to see your breather tank installed soon .
br,
Erik
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Post by seabee70 on Jul 20, 2013 23:37:39 GMT
  You don't have any pictures of your cooling system on your build thread, it would help if you could draw a diagram of how your system is plumbed. I have a diagram of how mine is on page 8 on my build thread, your latter r1 is not the same but if you wanted to fit a header tank it will give you an idea on how to plumb it. I assume you don't currently have a header tank....I don't mean the original expansion tank next to the radiator as this is sometimes wrongly called a header tank. The header tank isn't absolutely necessary but its easy to keep a check on the coolant level and can be topped up without having to remove the radiator cap. I hope the sketches make it, Kevin & if so, here's my plan. The short hose from the t-stat,(in cooling pic 1) will be cut & I'll insert a T fitting w/a bleed screw. It seems to be the highest line that heads to the radiator in my trike. I should mention that I left out the T-stat, hoping that the coolant circulates all the time. Loose hose clamps allowed coolant to escape & temp to rise so it's clean up time. My son noticed oil oozing from a few places, so new o-rings are on order, which meant draining the oil, so it won't be running for another week. I see that the sketch on the left shows the T-stat (1) & short hose I refer to. |
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Post by erik on Jul 21, 2013 6:28:03 GMT
What part is this? We don't have thison the carb version. Having read about low temp readings with open mesh makes me wonder the original rad location would be good for the tR1ke as well. That would save a considerable amount of work,weight and money. Attachments:
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Post by slugshot on Jul 21, 2013 12:46:42 GMT
Hi Seabee
Your pic looks like you plan to add the bleed valve at the highest point but its not clear where you fill the system.
I assume you don't use a header tank at the highest point so the system can self bleed and to make it easy to check and top up the coolant if needed.
Cheers
Kevin
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Post by seabee70 on Jul 24, 2013 21:22:39 GMT
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Post by seabee70 on Aug 1, 2013 13:03:53 GMT
 This filler is from an FJR 1300 & will be tested later today. I modified the OEM radiator cap as Kevin suggested, to allow coolant flow past it. Y'all have a good day,,,, |
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Post by seabee70 on Sept 8, 2013 13:48:27 GMT
Good news & a question for all. My tR1ke took a 2nd place plaque in a local bike show, to benefit cancer research. 1st place went to a brand new Goldwing trike. The question is, how many miles before the brake dust stops coating the wheels ? I've cleaned them less than 100 miles ago & am wondering if there's a problem w/the pads not "floating" ? I don't notice it pulling to either side & downshift to assist in slowing down as I do in my cars & all the bikes I've owned. As always, your advice is welcome & appreciated.
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Post by slugshot on Sept 8, 2013 16:59:32 GMT
There isn't a set amount of mileage needed for the brake pads to bed in, they will bed in quicker if you set the brake bias to the front wheels and be more aggressive on the peddle when braking.
Mine took quite a few miles to bed in but they didn't and still don't create much brake dust, my hispec calipers came with the standard black brake pads.
Do you have the optional EBC green stuff brake pads, I would think they would create more dust.
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Post by seabee70 on Nov 24, 2013 16:13:24 GMT
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 24, 2013 17:35:07 GMT
Hi Val,
My tR1ke has the same steering wheel modifications. About 14cm closer to the driver than standard.
Looks like the tR1ke designer has non typical body proportions.
Sent from my ME301T using proboards
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Post by seabee70 on Nov 25, 2013 15:41:21 GMT
I'll agree with Edwin,,,anyone else ? A windscreen on top of the bonnet would be a nice option eh ?
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Post by slugshot on Nov 25, 2013 16:58:45 GMT
Yes me too, quick release hub and seat rails 6" forward so I can reach the peddles and a screen for less wind blast.
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Post by seabee70 on Dec 27, 2013 23:11:47 GMT
Greetings from the USA,,, I have a question for y'all.
The shoulder straps do not stay tight while I'm driving along. Is there something you can suggest I use, to keep them from loosening ? Thanks for any & all comments.
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 29, 2013 8:27:25 GMT
Most simple solution: buy new ones.....
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Post by erik on Dec 29, 2013 8:59:32 GMT
If they loose you do have a safety issue and I agree with Edwin new harness is recommended.
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