tR1ke build in TN.

[seabee70]

Thanks guys,,, My son's idea is also simple & less $$,since the lap belt stays tight. I should have thought of it myself. The immediate problem is getting stronger clutch springs & plates to keep from over heating them on these mountain roads, w/a 1000 lb. load. Any suggestions ?

[edwinwl]

My thoughts:
1. Its a motorbike engine therefore it needs more rev's than a car engine. (keep it above 3000 rpm)
2. You also can change the chain sprocket ratio helps a lot and is cheaper than option 3.
3. Some on the forum have changed the standard clutch into a barnett version

[seabee70]

Thanks Edwin,,, I would enjoy hearing from those who're using the Barnett clutch kit, since two local mechanics have suggested Barnett. I'm waiting for the $$ amount from one of them.

[Deleted]

Kevin is using a clutch, but not sure if he is using all Barnett

[daveisom1]

I fitted a Barnett clutchb as it is supposed to give a more even pressure on the plates. Have to say it took a lot of playing around with the spring loading and plates to get the best results, I now use the 6 strong springs and kevlar plates and have no problems with slipping but still had pull away stall problems at times.
I have now changed the pedal leverage to 35 mm and the sprockets to 15-44 and now find very easy to drive away.
In hindsight I would not fit the Barnett clutch untill I had modified the pedal then test, if necessary then play with sprockets before investing in a new clutch.

[slugshot]

Dec 29, 2013 15:02:07 GMT seabee70 said:

The immediate problem is getting stronger clutch springs & plates to keep from over heating them on these mountain roads, w/a 1000 lb. load. Any suggestions ?

The original clutch if in good condition should be fine, if the friction plates are worn it would be cheaper to replace them with an after market set including the steels and heavy duty springs. And soak them in engine oil over night before fitting.

Your model r1 is fitted with a multi spring clutch from new so why buy a barnett conversion.

You say the clutch over heats on the mountain roads, what do you mean by that...is there tight hairpin bends that require a lot of clutch slipping.

[erik]

Personally I don't think the spring is too weak. The rear wheel should spin more easely on lower torque than the clutch plates which have ben designed for a higher load which would indicate the plates are worn. Not sure if changing sprocket ratio would be of help with stop/start clutch control. The max engine torque stays the same and this is the load on the clutch plates. Changing sprockets will change torque on the tire.

br,
Erik

[seabee70]

Here's the story guys. I wanted to do a high speed check, so I used 8k as a shift point & started uphill on a new section of road near me. At 102 mph I was cresting the hill & backed off in case the Highway patrol was on duty ahead. As I approached the end & was downshifting, I felt a difference in the clutch pedal feel. At the stop sign it was creeping forward with the pedal depressed & I couldn't find neutral. I was able to get home & call a mechanic with this story & asked his opinion. He said I overheated the clutch & should think about a Barnett kit w/Kevlar plates & stiffer springs. The 2nd mechanic said the same after I showed him the plates I removed & said not to re-use them. I'm waiting for his call w/the $$ needed. The oem plates & springs were replaced before I fit the motor in the frame, so I hope the new ones & a pedal adjustment will do the trick.

[seabee70]

Happy New Year to all of you !!

[Deleted]

Happy New Year :-)

[4sfed]

Hi Val, 
Just wanted to let you know I found your thread, and just finished reading it. Great job, I had seen your thread while I was doing research, but never beginning to end. If you were a teacher, please no digs on grammar. Be thankful you can't see my penmanship, and spell check is my friend. I sent you a PM. 
Derrick