phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 138
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Post by phaeton on Jul 7, 2022 10:10:35 GMT
When you come to drop your chassis over the skate you may want to slacken the PPF bolts at either end, bolt subframes to chassis then retighten PPF bolts.
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Post by o55ie18 on Jul 8, 2022 6:53:47 GMT
When you come to drop your chassis over the skate you may want to slacken the PPF bolts at either end, bolt subframes to chassis then retighten PPF bolts. Thank you, I have made sure not to torque them up yet ready as I thought that would be the case (well, I read it from previous build threads when others have advised. Once the chassis is aligned up and a good fit, it's fine to torque everything up fully then isn't it? I will probably leave the knuckle bolts and hub nuts until after I have fitted the wingstays but apart from that, get everything else torqued up? Thanks for heads up mate
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Post by hutchey on Jul 18, 2022 12:42:17 GMT
Yeah, that way you know what you've done and not done. Or leave everything until pre-iva and then do them all. Either or
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Post by armstro7799 on Oct 6, 2022 21:00:24 GMT
Hi buddy
Where abouts in South Yorkshire are you based? I am located in shafton Barnsley I have just took over a build on a mk1 Exocet chassis with a mk2 donor car, Build is probably half way there but I’m getting stuck on this already with what’s done and what’s left to do Have you got as far as mounting the fuel tank yet? That’s where I am at, if so what arrangements have you made for the fuel filler neck
Regards Brett
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 19, 2022 8:09:53 GMT
Hi buddy Where abouts in South Yorkshire are you based? I am located in shafton Barnsley I have just took over a build on a mk1 Exocet chassis with a mk2 donor car, Build is probably half way there but I’m getting stuck on this already with what’s done and what’s left to do Have you got as far as mounting the fuel tank yet? That’s where I am at, if so what arrangements have you made for the fuel filler neck Regards Brett Hi mate, Im in Whiston (Rotherham). Not yet at the fuel tank stage but after reading all the other threads and talking with people, I intend to turn the tank round so that the filler neck is behind the driver. Failing that, see if I can get someone to cut and blank the old filler neck, and then weld a new one directly upwards. Iv also been told to make sure you keep the breather pipe on the side otherwise filling the tank will be a nightmare. I have only recently picked up my chassis, so currently fitting the floors and fuel lines etc, then hoping to potentially mate the chassis and skate this weekend. Nice to have someone else from South Yorkshire as well, will definitely need to meet up and share ideas/ progress etc Jay
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 20, 2022 7:33:40 GMT
So, some more pics of progress and any relevant info with them to hopefully aid others in their build. I fitted the manifold back on to the head and also fitted the ignition leads and the coil packs. I did also take a picture of these laid out neatly in the lead bridges, plugged in to the coil packs but for some reason that photo doesn't want to upload. Coolant to Throttle Body Line
So, seeing as I have gone down the path of a coolant re-route, I have deleted the front neck and blanked this off with a freeze plug. Although this tidies things up really nicely, it then meant the coolant lines which run to the TB and then onwards to the Neck, the further to the water pump inlet... no longer fit!! To solve this, I used some 8mm Copper and bent this to shape to fit a bracket I made which mounts to the same hole one of the timing belt covers fastens to. The copper hose is in effect flared at both ends by the old school way of crimping an olive in to the line, then sleeve the rubber over the top and fasten in place. As this coolant route is not under much pressure, it should all hold up fine with no needs for double flares or anything. Pics below to show the weird creation lol Im sure there are many other way of doing this which are better but hopefully this may give someone an idea if they ever come across the same problem. The copper line doesn't contact anything even with slight pressure applied in different areas
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 20, 2022 7:41:12 GMT
Chassis Collection!!So, the exciting day arrived, it was time to collect the chassis and once again get on the road to MEV. We decided to use our Horsebox for the chassis transit, admittedly there were times I wasn't sure it would fit but how glad am I that the worry was for nothing lol A good time again looking around at other chassis sat awaiting collection, asking as huge list of questions which I had been thinking of on the drive down. Standard 'giddy bloke' photo incoming!! On to the donkey-box we go!! After loading all the other parts and ensuring everything was strapped up and going nowhere it was time to head back (via Burger king!) Approx 4hrs later, we got home and placed it in the garage upside down with the front strapped up, this way I could roll the chassis in and out That was enough for that day. It had been a long day on the road and we had to get ready to go out so lights off, door shut and try contain the excitement for the next day!
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 20, 2022 7:52:39 GMT
FlooringSo, I had considered leaving the flooring until the end, and just drilling the holes etc now but Im not sure how much of a pain that would be to rivet later as I don't have a vehicle lift so I started to get on with it now First up, I followed the build guides advice of holes at 100mm centres. The drill babe can turn the aluminium out so it is best practice to clean this up after, removing any sharp edges. To do this, I just chucked a tiny brass wire wheel attachment in to the drill and zapped round the holes on both sides of the sheeting Next up, I gave the floor a couple of coats of paint on both sides. I will be using rubber matting on the inside, but still, why not paint it now whilst it is easy to access. Then, the drilling job! What felt like a million holes going in to the chassis, all drill out in 2 stages. One small pilot hole to start with, using a 3mm drill, then stepped it up to the 5mm required for the rivets. Once drilled out, i then painted around the holes to coat any bare metal and ran a bead of Tiger Seal around. I could have probably used a bit more but I thought less is more in the case of not wanting to tidy a ridiculous amount of pressed out seal after. Why... because Tiger Seal is MESSY! Then, clamp down and Rivet Time.. For this I used a Lazy Tong. It was an Eclipse Heavy Duty Lazy Tong and wow am I thankful for it. I would not have wanted to use anything smaller as I can imagine it would have been harsh on the hands and arms Once all rivets were fitted and in place, I ran over with one more lick of paint to just tidy things up I guess. I appreciate it's not to everyone's standards but, fingers crossed the underside wont be what's getting seen! lol I then used my new toy, a rivnut gun to place the nuts in ready for the fuel and brake lines Thanks for looking Jay
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 20, 2022 8:04:52 GMT
Fuel & Brake LinesSo, floor fitted, next step is the fuel and brake lines. I have decided to fab up some brackets for the lines, to hold all 3 on to one bracket using 2 P-Clips, this would also mean only one hole for the chassis (well, 8 holes along, but only 1 for each bracket) More on these brackets later as I have now made 8 up, bent in to shape, drilled, and painted. they are now all hung up drying, ready to be used/ fitted later this week Rear Brake LinesSo, each to their own, everyone's builds are different, love that.. hate the fact I didn't/ don't know the 'perfect place' for fitting the brake lines ha. I decided to use the lip on the rear subframe for the T-Piece. To fit this, I used a Rivnut, and then went overkill with the bolt, washer, and also a nyloc nut underneath I then used the existing holes for some more rivnuts to hold the P-Clips in at either side. Ensuring to also use Loctite Blue on all these bolts. Now... my bracket & bolt on the driverside was there, but the bolt was too short... The bracket on the passenger side for the horseshoe clips to fit the brake line on to, butchered!! Due to this, I made 2 more brackets, painted them black, and fitted these in place with SS bolts and nyloc nuts, making sure they made no contact at all with brake lines once fitted. Doing it the way i have done it, i have some slack/ allowance at either side, hoping this will be enough for when the car is raised and the wheels lower down. REALLY hoping they don't pull too tight Again, I hope maybe these pics can help someone just as other forum members threads have helped me Jay
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 20, 2022 8:11:29 GMT
Rear Wing Stays & BrakesSo, fitting the rear wing stays. Step one, drill through the rear hub cradles! Place in position, mark, drill, be careful! Remember, once you have drilled a hole, paint it up to cover the bare metal Use a longer Bolt and nyloc nut, ensuring threads are fully through and can be seen. For the caliper bolt, you will need a longer bolt and MUST use loctite/ threadlock. It isn't worth not using it lol I have new Banjo Bolts for the brakes and also new bleed screws, the old ones are just in as temps until lines are screwed in etc Next update will probably be the fitting of the fuel and brake lines along the chassis Take Care Jay
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Post by hutchey on Oct 20, 2022 13:51:45 GMT
Watch two things: when putting the frame on you'll probably have to move the brake T piece or at least angle it down. Also the coil packs will get in the way when you come to put the frame on, the bolt heads at the back get right in the way. Looking good though
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 21, 2022 7:46:09 GMT
Watch two things: when putting the frame on you'll probably have to move the brake T piece or at least angle it down. Also the coil packs will get in the way when you come to put the frame on, the bolt heads at the back get right in the way. Looking good though Thanks for the heads up mate. So is it easier to remove the coil packs and refit after the chassis is mounted would you say? Wasn't sure if access would be tighter at that point. Regarding the T-Piece, that's the part where my eyes are gonna be glued upon lowering the chassis, if it makes it, brilliant, if not then I will probably slit the lip either side and bend it down at an angle if it's possible (may not be) Thanks again mate
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phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 138
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Post by phaeton on Oct 25, 2022 7:41:03 GMT
Too late was the cry, but I would advise NOT fitting the floor until you've done the bastard bulkhead, can't be helped now, the claim is the new one fits better, I hope it does
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Post by o55ie18 on Oct 25, 2022 11:48:42 GMT
Too late was the cry, but I would advise NOT fitting the floor until you've done the bastard bulkhead, can't be helped now, the claim is the new one fits better, I hope it does Lmao. I was going to hold off fitting the floor but just can't imagine how difficult it is riveting the floor on after when the car is built up, and I intend on holding off with the bulkhead panel until I have finished with the other stuff (that may change and end up getting done soon though). I will use Rivnut for the bulkhead and transmission tunnel panels so they can be removed in future if ever needed. Chassis is now sat on the car etc too, over the next few days I will get the photos uploaded and update my thread. Kind Regards Jay
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phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 138
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Post by phaeton on Oct 25, 2022 12:04:08 GMT
Bulkhead, then floor, then build the rest, okay I'm 6ft 15 stone post 60 so I don't bend & twist very well, but the panel fit of the bulkhead was horrendous, I'm advised they are now better, but no experience of those.
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