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Post by o55ie18 on Jan 25, 2022 7:50:29 GMT
Yeah she's on the mend, sometimes a bit zoned out but that's when I take advantage and start moving car parts inside the house to work on! ha. Never considered nipping to the NEC but that could be good, thank you. What's the current waiting list? I know it wont be on the road for this summer but as long as I can catch some nice weather to be working on it I don't mind. I checked the NEC website and it shows the Practical Classic show is 18th - 20th? Crufts is on the 10th - 13th unless Iv read it wrong? I am a huge dog lover but, rather have the Exo! You're correct, got the dates mixed up... which is good as I was looking at hotels for the wrong weekend as well!! It's halved the price of the hotel putting in the correct dates Haha, that's ace, normally it works the other way round by sods law would double the cost! lol I only came across it as I was looking at what other stands would be there to talk the missus in to it as a day out.
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Post by o55ie18 on May 4, 2022 10:39:47 GMT
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Post by o55ie18 on May 4, 2022 10:49:51 GMT
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phaeton
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Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 137
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Post by phaeton on May 4, 2022 11:16:13 GMT
And there it is, finished Valve Cover. I used a syringe to fill the lettering in. this is a 1.8 16v cover from a 2000 reg car so the lettering wasn't raised but instead recessed (sods law) 1.8's are recessed, 1.6 are raised, but nice work
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Post by o55ie18 on May 4, 2022 13:42:31 GMT
And there it is, finished Valve Cover. I used a syringe to fill the lettering in. this is a 1.8 16v cover from a 2000 reg car so the lettering wasn't raised but instead recessed (sods law) 1.8's are recessed, 1.6 are raised, but nice work Ah that makes sense then. I thought I had seen some 1.8's on here which were raised lettering but could very easily be mistaken/ not paying attention right lol. It would have been much easier to colour the lettering if it was raised though haha. Thanks mate
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Post by o55ie18 on May 4, 2022 14:08:59 GMT
Rebuilding the SkateSo, to start fitting things back together is an amazing feeling, long way off still but even these little steps make for a positive vibe! To start, I fitted the differential back on to the rear subframe. I only have the poor mans dif, which will probably be useless in the future when I go down the boost route but for now I am hoping it will still be a good drive. I cleaned up the dif mounting plates or whatever they are called, fitted the dif and torqued up to the advised settings. I also fitted the PPF but haven't yet torqued this up and I will hold off doing that until I have the chassis and have it mounted etc. Quite a rewarding step putting this back together, was a pain tying to lift and align it correctly so it sat over the mounting bolts right but, all in and sat nicely. With this being the first reassembled part, it drove me on to start fitting the new bushes and rebuilding the skate as much as I currently can. Fitting New BushesSo, following the black and orange theme (orange being a minimal accent), I decided to fit my new bushes and because I do not have a press or anything, I used the threaded bar/nuts and sockets method which others on here and advised and described to help others, so thanks for that. Plenty of lube, patience and faffing around, all in! SubframesSome pics below show the subframes how they used to be once stripped, and the power of powder coating. Really happy with the difference. the comparison picture is one I look at a bit and show others when they can't believe it is being built from a rusty old car lol. I have used new ball joints, both upper and lower. I then mounted the steering rack back on to the front subframe. And that is where I am currently at. Next step is to order a new clutch and lightened flywheel kit so it will allow me to mate the subframes back together and allow for a rolling skate. I am torn between a couple of options though. I am trying to think of future proofing it for the turbo but looking at either the kit offered by FreakyParts, or the G19 kit. My only concern is the G19 is a new name to me so no idea what their clutches are like, whereas FreakyParts are offering big brands which are well known. This will NOT be a track car and won't be aiming for ridiculous bhp numbers etc, it will be a street driven weekend and evening toy to just enjoy, so I am trying to read up advice regarding best clutch and thinking of staying away from paddle. i had a 6 puck in an Evo I used to have and although it gave my left leg a good workout at first, it wouldn't at all be good as a daily in a kit car lol Any advice and recommendations are appreciated! Take care all
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phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 137
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Post by phaeton on May 4, 2022 14:46:10 GMT
I have a VLSD & driveshafts here in Worksop if you want to upgrade before you fully assemble?
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 13, 2022 7:46:14 GMT
I have a VLSD & driveshafts here in Worksop if you want to upgrade before you fully assemble? Thanks for the offer Phaeton, at the minute as i have ordered everything including the chassis, costs are restrained and the rear subframe and diff is also now back together etc (easy enough to take apart though). I will probably want to upgrade in the future at some point but sods law it will be gone by then! I do need to look in to different diffs and the differences as well Thanks again for the offer mate
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 13, 2022 8:00:09 GMT
So, bit more progress now. I have ordered the chassis which has given me a good kick up the rear to work quicker, but also reminded me of everything I had to order! lol I have taken delivery of new freakyparts goodies, including CC Stage 3 Clutch, Lightweight Flywheel, and new Discs & Pads for each corner. I have gone for the C Hook design. Also had new coilovers delivered, and a huge box full of seals and replacement parts from AutoLink So, for the progress update, i started with the gearbox. The gearlever lower boot was well and truly shot so I replaced this along with the nylon cup on the bottom of the shaft. Much nicer! Really easy to sort, only annoying part was I slid the boot too far down the shaft as I wasn't payng attention so then it sat underneath the part where it should! Took some doing but got it back over and now it is sat correctly (or so I believe). Then, the gearbox front seal.. Read up on this and it shouldn't really need doing but whilst I had easy access I figured I would do it anyway. To do this, simple remove the clutch fork and release bearing, then unbolt the 6 bolts on the seal housing thingy! Then off this pops! Obviously this has been cleaned up by myself prior to taking the photo! Then I used the new Mazda seal to replace the old one, sat it in, cleaned up the rear mating faces and with the new gasket in place, back in she went. Took probably 10 mins in total. Everything I am fastening back together, I am using the recommended torque settings
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 13, 2022 8:09:32 GMT
Clutch Slave CylinderAnother easy fix what I have seen others do is to replace the clutch slave cylinder piston/ spring etc whilst its off the car and hopefully this may save me any failures down the line. I ordered a replacement kit which came with everything needed. I had previously repainted the slave cylinder silver, well, that didn't last as I ended up marking it and getting it filthy again whilst replacement these parts so once I finished, i repainted it black. Easy to do.... I blew out the old piston/ rubber and spring using compressed air and then slid the new one in The photo below shows the old v new piston and now the repainted slave cylinder Clutch Line & BracketsThe clutch line and brackets were filthy as the below photo shows. I used 'Wonder Wipes' on the rubber hoses and got rid of so much of the crud. Then for the brackets, the trusty die grinder came out bit I think wire wool would do just a good a job! Repainted the end of the hoses and the brackets silver and jobs a good un!
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 13, 2022 9:34:54 GMT
Cylinder Head PaintingSo, not sure about yours by my cylinder head was vile on the outside, and with everything else being painted and smartened up, this was always on the cards to be done. I used a mixture of brake cleaner and the wire wheel to clean this up as much as possible. I used wire wool in the hard to reach areas as I wanted to ensure all the dirt was removed before painting Again, plenty of cleaner and a dry down before taping everything up and starting to spray. Something I would like to advise others is aluminium tape/ foil tape or whatever its called, the nice thin shiny silver stuff... easy to apply and sticks really well to everything, easy to trim etc... nightmare to get off without it tearing in to smaller strips lol. That part took forever! Anyway, some pics to follow of the painted head I then took to the cams, these weren't too bad and fair enough they won't be seen but I still figured I would freshen these up! Masked all around the teeth and the rear, and then painted using the same Motip Aluminium Paint I have used on the gearbox and cylinder head I then fitted a new Headgasket to the block and decided to lift the head on to the block carefully using my pull lift I made sure when I torqued down the head bolts I used the correct sequence and also tightened up in 3 torque stages. I fitted a new water pump and as you can see, the new belt is already behind the crank gear ready. I cannot yet fit the new belt and time it up properly as I am waiting for my coolant reroute kit which will allow me to fully blank off the water outlet at the front of the head. Once I have this (hopefully this week) I will then refit the cams, fit and time the cambelt up properly and then also fit the covers, crank pulley etc That's it for now, thanks for looking!
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 13, 2022 9:36:30 GMT
Another pic to include the waterpump
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 15, 2022 9:26:10 GMT
Coolant Reroute and Timing the EngineSo, as I have no heater matrix anymore and want to eliminate piping where possible, I have purchased a SkidNation coolant reroute kit. I opted to plug off the front outlet properly as I had good access to it as hadn't yet timed the engine etc. New goodies arrived (ordered the kit from Bofi) and then cracked on in the garage. Quite a quick job in fairness I laid the kit out to check everything had come and so you can see what parts are included. To start, I put some RTV sealant around the plug (isn't needed but I went overkill) and then used a 24mm socket to tap it in to place carefully Then I fastened the plate over the plug and bolted it down to the same torque settings advised for the coolant outlet I assembled the rear engine part of the reroute later in the day after other jobs so forgot to take pictures but I will add these later. I just assembled the new outlet and spacer as advised by Skidnation and bolted this on. Timed up the engine
So now that the plug is fitted, I was able to fit the backing plate with the timing marks on, and then the Cams, tensioner, etc etc. From following advice of everyone on this forum and youtube videos from others, I was able to time the engine myself and HOPEFULLY it is done right. I aligned the crank gear so the notch was at top dead centre inline with the upside down triangle. I then aligned the Cams, on the left (intake Cam) 'I' at the top and the 'E' notch matching up to the timing plate... on the right (Exhaust Cam) 'E' at the top and the 'I' notch matching up with the timing plate also. On and off with the belt, once I had 19 teeth between the top two notches, I put tension on the belt and rotated the crank two full revolutions. Once the second revolution returned to TDC, everything was still aligned correctly Lastly, checked tension and torqued this up. Hopefully that's correct New Goodies from Freaky Parts
So, received my goodies from Freaky and these included a new lightweight flywheel and a Competition Clutch. I have gone for stage 3 as I intend to boost this later down the line once I have learnt how the car drives and after Mr IVA decidedes its road legal (hopefully) Job No.1, get the gearbox plate back on! Sprayed this black just to tidy it up as mine was cruddy Then on to the flywheel. I cleaned the oily coating off with brake cleaner first and then pressed in the new pilot bearing which came as part of the clutch kit. Brownie points for CC and Freaky right there! The mounted this on and torqued up to spec The the clutch, I first ran this on the input shaft from the gearbox, on - off - rotate - on - off - rotate etc etc. This way I could make sure the splines were evenly coated in grease (tiny amount) and the used the clutch alignment tool to hold it in place Then, mounted the pressure plate Once again, no photos for this as giddy knickers here got carried away and too involved in the moment to think about taking photos.
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Post by o55ie18 on Jun 17, 2022 11:43:46 GMT
Just some more pics of the clutch/ pressure plate and coolant reroute at the back of the engine as I didn't have these previously. This weekend I am a bit busy out and about but when I get chance, I will be hoping to mate the gearbox on, which then allows for bringing the front and rear subframes together
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Post by o55ie18 on Jul 7, 2022 9:38:24 GMT
Morning all, Not updated for a few weeks on here but did previously post something on fb. I will still keep posting updates on here as I personally found this forum a huge help with weakth of information and ideas so I wouldn't want it to die a quiet death. So, here are some progress pics of getting the skate rolling again! Mounting the gearbox to the engineFront Skate RebuiltNow for a huger personal milestone. Bringing the front and rear skates together and realising I am back to a rolling skate, except this time, a lot cleaner and shinier than when it was first stripped lol Rebuilt Rolling Skate!!!!
There is a video of the rolling skate on the fb forum for UK Exocet Owners which I previously uploaded. I then fitted the Exhaust Manifold and also the intake manifold (new pics of the intake manifold fitted yet) The above pic shows how I have capped off the manifold to EGR pipe. I then tidied up the fuel rail and also fitted all new seals/ gaskets on the injectors To think this is how is used to look! Now here she is under a dust cover awaiting more pampering! More updates and info to come as and when I have ticked off other jobs I have recently fitted the new oil filter, filled up the engine oil (will need checking and topping up once running). Filled up the gearbox, refitted the shift turret and then filled up the Diff. I have new droplinks to fit but going to wait until the chassis is mounted and the shocks are in place before doing this, just to make access ect easier for when i'm messing around in those areas. Air intake manifold is fitted and most of the vacuum ports are piped back up/ capped off, EGF blanking plates fitted but for now I have/ will leave the solenoids in place and connected to ensure no CEL. I think my next steps are to fit the small brackets back on what used to hold wiring and pipes out of the way, tidy things up and await the chassis Thanks for looking! Jay
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