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Post by Barney on Sept 27, 2013 13:22:28 GMT
where I made my second school boy error (at the rate they will be in the 1000's by the end of the build). So long as you are one week ahead of me and continue posting, please feel free to continue! The red chassis is very shiny & bright!
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 27, 2013 19:44:55 GMT
I'll be honest, I thought the red would not be quite as bright as it is and wasn't sure about it at first. I think when all the black bodywork is fitted it will tone down a bit and look more subtle. A friend came round the other day and called it orange....bastard
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 1, 2013 15:52:44 GMT
Bit of a slow few days partly due to work and partly due to dithering about front bulkhead design. I don't get work, they pay you and then expect you to work all day which means I can't tinker in the garage! Anyways the bulk mock up (mk 3) is done but soon to be changed thanks to input from fellow builders (you know who you are). I really want to rung with the flange bearing design so will need to have the bulkhead around the back of the pedal assembly for rigidity. Shaped one end of the steering extension which now fits nicely into the steering column, just waiting for the Ford Ka universal joint so I can do the other end. I finally managed to make a tool for the steering rack dismantling project and after a bit of a struggle the mains powered impact wrench came out and nicely chewed up the plug! Should be ok to put back in and at least it's covered by a plastic cap. I can't for the life of me get the tie rods out of rack. Am I right in thinking that I need to clamp the large metal collar in the vice whilst turning the actual rack? I can't get the vice to grip it hard enough to hold it, the whole assembly turns! Any tips on that. Also does anyone have a part number for suitable springs to fit to aid self centering.
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 1, 2013 18:00:17 GMT
Still struggling with getting tie rods unscrewed from rack. I think I might flatten two sides of the collar things so it can get a good grip in the vice. I can see the machine crimp, it's almost like a notch that sits In slot on the collar. Will this give way just by force of undoing the thread (when I finally manage to do it!)
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Oct 1, 2013 18:11:25 GMT
Large pipe grips, and it's accomplice, brute force.
Not sure on heat, as it may have internal bush/liner
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 1, 2013 20:23:14 GMT
It's not budging, not with brute force anyway and whilst I am not the strongest man in the world I gave it my best shot! I see your point about heat so will not attempt to grind the sides flat yet. I read someone had used a Dremel to get rid of the machine punch but can't see how they did it as it it's completely flush with collar. Any more suggestions gratefully received...
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 1, 2013 20:28:38 GMT
Probably not a good idea to file flats as by the time you get one big enough to do you any good you would be able to tell us all what's inside Like Steve says good grips (the more they wrap around the better) and big welly's. I used a vice and was nervous about crushing but provided you grip the whole unit it should be fine, serrated jaws help too. Use a bar through the rack bolt holes.
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 1, 2013 20:47:13 GMT
Fair enough, I'll hold back on the grinding and persevere then!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Oct 1, 2013 21:08:53 GMT
i think i recall using a 6' scaffold bar, or similar.
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 3, 2013 10:08:07 GMT
Update on steering rack gate. Dremel + determination = getting rid of machine crimp and finally managing to get track rod end off the steering rack! Now to dismantle and fit quick rack and finish the other end of extension to fit in Ka coupling. Things can finally start moving on....
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Oct 3, 2013 12:04:19 GMT
did you get the plug out for the worm drive ok?
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 3, 2013 17:40:57 GMT
Good question Paul and you p'll learn as my build goes on that there is always a story when shaggy is involved. Plug just fell out so I removed bearing using my new toy the press. I then installed the bearing on new worm gear, inserted rack into sleeve and that's where things seized to a halt! Could I get the worm gear back in its hole? Not a chance! Whichever angle I tried the rack it just would drive home into its housing. With a feeling of desperation and little anger I pushed I tho e gently in the afore mentioned press. It appears however that I have pushed it in to far cos the steering is seized (only able to turn it with the cv joint on the spline and 4 ft bar for leverage! I'll back it out a little if I can which should free up the steering slightly but I know that you shouldn't be able to move the rack by hand when it's all re-assembled.
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 3, 2013 18:01:20 GMT
Update....Help needed again. Whilst trying to pull the worm gear out slightly the whole thing came out so I thought I would try to put it in by hand this time to avoid it binding again. Can I get the bloody thing back in...no! It sort of gets a slight bite onto rack teeth but then won't go in any further. I'm reluctant to use force again and can't understand after it coming out so easily why it's so bloody difficult to get back in!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Oct 3, 2013 18:08:54 GMT
i didnt force anything mate, re assembled by hand
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Post by shaggy33 on Oct 3, 2013 18:16:41 GMT
That's what I thought which is why I can't understand why I can't get it back in easily, now resorted to the good old staring at parts on the bench hoping it will magically go back together on its own!
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