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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 11:42:17 GMT
Gotcha, I'll do that Thanks all
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 15:03:58 GMT
Floor marked out, just need to mark drill holes with calipers. What is the popular distance between rivets, 50mm? Was wondering what to rest floor on whilst jigsawing (is that a word....) and suddenly realised the best thing is the chassis Itself so i have slid off to one side to give plenty of clearance and covered the frame is t-shirts to avoid any alloy shavings scratching the powder coat. When I have done this side I will slide the other way. Simple....I hope
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2013 15:21:54 GMT
Floor marked out, just need to mark drill holes with calipers. What is the popular distance between rivets, 50mm? Was wondering what to rest floor on whilst jigsawing (is that a word....) and suddenly realised the best thing is the chassis Itself so i have slid off to one side to give plenty of clearance and covered the frame is t-shirts to avoid any alloy shavings scratching the powder coat. When I have done this side I will slide the other way. Simple....I hope View AttachmentView AttachmentIf youve got good offcuts, for each side, then use them to find the centre line. drill holes 100mm apart, more than adequate.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 16:40:08 GMT
100mm! Great half the amount of rivets
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2013 18:02:01 GMT
Nice clean well defined lines you have there Shaggy I also see a stray pen mark which I presume was from first attempt, quite a variation. Just take it slow and steady with the saw and guide the front of it with your fingers at the plate level, not sure that makes sense, basically don't try and steer it with the handle. You will need to clamp the plate down so you don't have worry about it moving.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2013 18:15:04 GMT
Wow I never knew tapping was so technical. Well it can be but doesn't need to be. I am afraid I have a 'verging on boring' level of knowledge on such things. However wait till I come to the truly automotive related issues - I know sweet F.A. I have never even changed the oil in a car
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 18:28:06 GMT
Yes there are some very stray lines I'm afraid for when I attempted to mark it out with marker pen whilst upside down (the car not me!). To be honest the photos is making the cut lines look better than they are. I have measured the width of outer rail cutaways and at some points it's 50mm which is what it should be and some points is 47! I used a blade and 90degree block but obviously had some lateral wandering on the blade. I am sure the outers will be fine, it's the inner rails I worry about but I think I have a solution. Mark up the floor with all the hole positions for outer rails but leave the inner narrow ones. Then run plumb lines the length of the narrow rails and use that to mark the centre of the rails. I could tie the line at each end/side of he car and then slide the cut floor under the lines. I see exactly what you are saying about the jigsaw, basically push and pull it along, don't just steer the blade from the handle. I have clamped the ends of the floor at the side I am cutting first but will also place a spare wheel in the middle where I can't clamp it.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 22, 2013 12:39:08 GMT
Good progress today as wife,away and lad gone out with sitter! Did the dreaeded cutting of floor,and it worked out ok, edge a bit rough amd needs to be de-blurred amd perhaps file down a couple of little curves when jigsaw wandered due to glasses steaming up! Spent ages marking out drill holes and using the off cuts as templates is an excellent idea for the outer holes. At that stage still hadn't marked inner tubes due to cutaway film not being exactly accurate. Once I,had drilled the outer perimeter I used the cut offs again to lay along the inner tubes under the main floor (gauged it be eye) and them marked each end before joining up with straight edge. Just need to do centre tube now.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 22, 2013 16:07:09 GMT
All holes drilled now. phew! Now I will need to get the mrs on the lounge floor (oooer) and help me adhere the huge sheet of carbon vinyl I have before I start the rivet marathon. And believe me it will be a rivet marathon with the riveter I am using...! Not going to do the silicon thing as I guess it's either good at both keeping water out but also in! I also worry that if it should perish at any spot it might provoke the floor rattle. I can see why people do choose to apply it but that's just my chosen route. Haven't got any alloy sheet large enough to do the removable front end rad guard but might get some whilst the car is upside down. I plan to fit that will tapped holes and machine screws so I can remove it.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 24, 2013 13:38:53 GMT
For some reason the attachment icon has disappeared so I can't put pic of finished floor. Mind you I guess people have seen enough of these!
Floor finally done amd am really chuffed with it. Did the carbon effect vinyl covering last night before riveting the floor onto the chassis and cut a strip around the perimeter as I didn't want it showing where the floor is hammered round the tubing. Just need to flip the chassis now as I am desparate to start bolting things on!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Sept 24, 2013 20:48:20 GMT
I host my pics on imageshack.us Then just copy and paste the link. Its proper easy, even for a Muppet like me
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 24, 2013 21:37:15 GMT
I think I'll have to do that from now on. It was just convenient to take pic with iPad and attach to post instead of downloading all pics to image shack or photobucket.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 26, 2013 19:24:27 GMT
Feel like I am making progress albeit slowly. I am waiting until I have all the suspension bits before I start assembling the 4 corners so am doing so nice easy jobs to get me started. Mounted pedal set which is where I made my second school boy error (at the rate they will be in the 1000's by the end of the build). Not a huge issue but I have mounted them to far back which has left me with very little room for brake/clutch lines. Having said that I am going to run braided lines with banjos and as they come out at right angles from cylinder i think it will clear the chassis top tube. If not I guess there is nothing stopping me spacing the cyclinders back a little? Next I mounted the gear shift assembly by tapping m8 bolts into mounting plates. I guess this was better than a nut and bolt as it gives slightly more clearance underneath. I also mounted the handbrake lever but used nylocs on this as I thought it might need a stronger anchor giving that it is tugged on a lot ooooer. Next job is thinking about radiator mounting. I made the decision to get the VW Golf rad similar to some other builders but think it's the most awkward to mount. My thinking is to put a full width angle strip at the bottom bolted to stock mounts. Then put holes in that to take rad mount lugs. Then run two vertical pieces on each side and tap the plastic mount holes each side and bolt to uprights. Then finish off with a half pipe or angle piece at top riveted or bolted to chassis. In effect make a crude frame to hold rad. Unless anyone has any far easier ways of doing it.... I have ordered all the bits for completing steering assembly gone for flange bearing holder as per kiwicanfly and others. Also ordered a 24mm deep socket to make my steering rack tool as I have a quick rack to fit. Once this is done I can start mocking up front bulkhead using cortex which is why I have temporarily fitted brake fluid reservoir (one of the benefits of selling polyprop is that I can get as much sheeting as I want:-)
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 26, 2013 19:26:50 GMT
having looked at my pics the gear lever assembly bolts take up more room than the nylocs on handbrake...doh! Also just to clarify the odd length bolts on the pedal assembly are temporary!
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Post by airforceone on Sept 26, 2013 19:46:32 GMT
Yes, defo cut the bolts down on the handbrake lever as you will struggle to get the cooling pipes thru there.
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