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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2013 9:17:24 GMT
Id never flip it on my own, however id lift it onto blocks, tables etc.
Its not worth the risk of a solo effort.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 18, 2013 10:00:54 GMT
Flipped it solo down here without problems, no powder to scratch though and used blocks to ensure no brackets scraped the ground. It is better with two though or even three, there are other activities like that
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 18, 2013 10:12:51 GMT
so I can mark floor with knife kiwi style A convert use a real sharp blade and very light pressure, the film cuts real easy so no need to mark the aluminium with heavy pressure.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2013 10:33:48 GMT
Flipped it solo down here without problems, no powder to scratch though and used blocks to ensure no brackets scraped the ground. It is better with two though or even three, there are other activities like that The reaspn i mention is, the last person who did this solo, bent his suspension, resulting in the chassis return to RTR to straighten. Post was in general, moved to tech. Now ? Black hole maybe? I remember you commented on the subject. For me, it's not worth the risk. If I'm gonna bend mine, it will be on an Armco.
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Post by deanohonda on Sept 18, 2013 11:54:05 GMT
Steve dont u dare to bend it untill after i have driven lol ;-)
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 19, 2013 11:22:11 GMT
Finally chassis flipped for marking floor with knife before flipping back over for fitting when the cutting has been done
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 8:22:21 GMT
Thought I would start the laborious job of cleaning threads in the wishbones and linkages as my eBay bargain tap arrived. Bloody hell it takes some muscle to get it to clean thread and could only get it part way in from each end leaving an uncleared section of thread that I can't get to. I have only done the from top wishbones so far and when I tried to test fit the ball joint it only went in about an inch! Then a thought occurred to me, I am waiting for the adjustable suspension set from rtr, does this mean I don't need to clean the thread as I will be fitting alloy collar? Also how does it work because as far as I can see I will need to have a smaller thread on the ball end to fit throughout the collar? I know, I am easily confused!
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 8:25:15 GMT
Here's the tap I bought and ball end as far as it will go
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2013 8:28:45 GMT
But if you have the "infinitely adjustable suspension" the holes should not be tapped, there should be plain holes to take the adjuster bushes.
Despite this that tap looks longer than the hole, it should allow you to go through in one go.
It is only powder you are cutting, should be easy, is the pitch correct?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2013 8:59:16 GMT
You should have a 1st, 2nd, and third tap. My kit was about £8.00 off ebay. The 1st, and 2nd would not go all the way through. However, the third was more like a bolt with cutouts. No taper to the end. That's the one that did it. I lost a few days of construction waiting for the right tools. I had the infinite style, made from steel.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2013 9:14:44 GMT
1st is for starting holes, biggest taper to help start tapping square in the hole but results in less thread in bottom of blind hole. 2nd (or intermediate) to follow, less taper on end, allowing you to get more threads in bottom of blind hole. 3rd (or bottom tap) has no taper and gives maximum depth of usable thread in blind hole.
Then you have your gun tap, your spiral point, spiral flute and roll tap.
But...........
You should not even have threads to tap if you have the variable camber bushes.
Did you specify this at the start or add the option later? Looks to me like you have non-variable wishbones.
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 9:27:10 GMT
Thanks guys. Wow I never knew tapping was so technical. I specified the variable at time of ordering kit so obviously have the wrong wishbones! I thought they must be non threaded to take the sleeve, I give rtr a call. Good news is my thread clearing days are over then:-)
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Post by shaggy33 on Sept 20, 2013 9:31:22 GMT
Definitely the right pitch, m18 x1.5 right?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 20, 2013 9:36:53 GMT
And finally, at the risk of becoming boring in this thread, get it get, thread (sorry just back from pub and almost won Americas Cup), is the pitch correct on the tap?
It looks quite corse, put the rod end against the tap, the threads should blend into each other perfectly. If the pitch is wrong (you would not believe how many "standard" threads there are) it might explain the effort required to tap the holes.
Even if you now don't need to worry this time it is useful for the future before you destroy a thread by picking the wrong tap.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2013 10:52:11 GMT
Thanks guys. Wow I never knew tapping was so technical. I specified the variable at time of ordering kit so obviously have the wrong wishbones! I thought they must be non threaded to take the sleeve, I give rtr a call. Good news is my thread clearing days are over then:-) Running the tap through the infinite adjusters, is good practice, as you do not want a bind when your adjusting..
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