Dan's Exocet Build

[bewgy]

Jason, your right there is not enough clearance for the top hose. I will have to drop the radiator a little when the new one arrives.

[bewgy]

Completed all the wiring and fitted the rear cover, I was not looking forward to this job because so much had the potential to go wrong. I looked at making something bespoke for the fuel hose and filler, but all options were fairly expensive so I decided to use the original parts. I used a flexible fuel filler hose and shortened the original MX5 filler pipe. I really had to bend the pipe to fit the filler in the side wall so opted for the angle which was a much more natural fit. Its not pretty I admit, plan is to get through the IVA and the retofit something chromy and flush. It is still quite tight at the back and the fuel filler pipe bends a lot so I would not be surprised if it fills slowly. Putting a 90 degree pipe on the end of the tank nozzle and running a straight pipe is a better option but I figured about £150 to do this and I'm all about recycling. (ie not being cheap)

[bewgy]

I have the headlight set from MEV, I am not sure what the purpose of the brown and black wires connected to the small bulb are and what wires from the MX5 donor should connect to them?

[jason82]

Oct 17, 2018 14:04:36 GMT bewgy said:

Completed all the wiring and fitted the rear cover, I was not looking forward to this job because so much had the potential to go wrong. I looked at making something bespoke for the fuel hose and filler, but all options were fairly expensive so I decided to use the original parts. I used a flexible fuel filler hose and shortened the original MX5 filler pipe. I really had to bend the pipe to fit the filler in the side wall so opted for the angle which was a much more natural fit. Its not pretty I admit, plan is to get through the IVA and the retofit something chromy and flush. It is still quite tight at the back and the fuel filler pipe bends a lot so I would not be surprised if it fills slowly. Putting a 90 degree pipe on the end of the tank nozzle and running a straight pipe is a better option but I figured about £150 to do this and I'm all about recycling. (ie not being cheap)

I made this point previously regarding slow filling. I have done a bit of work to keep the tank in the normal mk1 position, filler on left / n/s. Try and get your hands on a Haynes Roadster MX5 tank. Saves all of the bespoke stuff. Maybe even one off a GBS zero (mazda). They are tall, narrowish & have top fill, & the oval cut for the sender. I have plans somewhere if you dance making one out of mild steel ? Aluminium if you can tig.

[jason82]

Oct 21, 2018 14:56:31 GMT bewgy said:

I have the headlight set from MEV, I am not sure what the purpose of the brown and black wires connected to the small bulb are and what wires from the MX5 donor should connect to them?

Go on the actual MEV website, go under community, I am sure that I have seen something on there.

[jason82]

Found it ! Look in the revised build manual, it's under section 6, lighting & wiring.

[hammy3601]

Oct 21, 2018 17:21:05 GMT jason82 said:

Found it ! Look in the revised build manual, it's under section 6, lighting & wiring.

Ive used the GBS one on other builds and its no simpler/easier than the MX5 tank and still expensive. Nothing wrong with the OEM tank, just takes some thinking and I think the way you have done it will be fine as long as you have kept the breather hose as well. Your builds looking great by the way. 

PS. Am refering to the tank and filler part, not the lighting :-)

[jason82]

The Haynes tank that I am referring to has a better spout location. It can be fitted in a variety of positions, which makes the filler tube location easier. It's a preference not a swipe at the Mazda tank. A custom tank can be made easily for next to nothing, & you can have your breather, filler etc wherever you want, what's wrong with that ? Mazda tanks can rust on the seam.
That hose in the reverse location is very tight, imagine pulling up to the fuel station, everyone looking on, and the pump keeps clicking. It will get right on your nerves. I have a friend that has already purchased a built Exocet, & he said that he can't fill the tank like he could in the MX5 when the filler is in this position.
There is nothing wrong with either selection. My point was that you could buy a tank from a failed project for next to nothing or make one, & have the set up that suits you, rather than battle something that does not naturally want to work.
There is a builder on here that has built his own tank already, which has made his life easier.

[bewgy]

Handbrake fitted, the drivers side cable just about reached. When I placed the two cables side by side one appeared to be longer (of course this could be my imagination) and I used the longer one for the drivers side. Its tight and there is no additional support, so I will have to check this is ok with the IVA.

Also the handbrake is really close to the gear stick, this is a far back as I could get it. I wound the adjusting screw all the way down, but it was still too close. So I used a stack of M6 washers a pulled the threaded part up into the handbrake which gave me a little more. Even doing this there was still some slack in the cable, which is why I fitted the spring to take the slack out.

I adjusted the brakes and if I pull the handbrake all the way up, its all good. Need to check if there is no limit on the amount of movement for the IVA.

I assume the Mk1 cable is shorter, the handbrake brackets really need to be moved back 50mm.

[bewgy]

Been a while since my last post, I have wrapped and unwrapped the loom a couple of times and it still look a complete mess 

Fitted up the new exhaust system and resolved the fitment issues, once it is fully done I will make a separate post. Bought some new seat courtesy of forum member Russ. These are ready to be mounted and I will add a picture later.

Like most people on the forum I have been struggling with the mounting and fitting of the bonnet the closer that I get it to fitting I find new area of fouling. I bought the MEV bracket and a Mk1 radiator in the hope that this would solve the problem, but the hood still fouled on the radiator. So I modified the brackets to move the rad as far back as possible, it was close but the hood still fouled.

I saw a universal fan on ebay with a reversible fan, removing the fan from from the back of the radiator allowed me to push it all the way back and ensure no fouling. I had to dispose of the MEV bracket and make new ones form the rad and the fan. 








I have run up the fan and despite reversing the blade it sucks! So I will need to re-reverse the blade so it blows. Also need to add some cowling as the fan does not sit on the rad. I could have got away with a smaller fan. This one is 14" and a 9 or 10 would have worked better. But I was nervous about mounting on the front so went big. Even without the cowling the and sucking the fan is cycling on and of ok and doing the job so 10" should work.

All this was in an effort to save the cost of a custom rad, but during the messing about I managed to damage the rad with a dremmel tool and it leaks so I need to by another DOH!, still cheaper over all though.

Fitted the bonnet again and it fouled on the bottom tab for the anti roll bar, so those we cut back. Finally the bonnet mounts, there is still some fouling on the frame and it the bonnet will need cutting back slightly. I have fitted the hinges on the frame and will save that job for another day.

[bewgy]

I have fitted up and bolted the exhaust, this was one of the jobs I was most worried about and it took a lot of research and measuring to make sure that I bought the correct parts. In the end by hook or crook everything fitted together which was lucky!

I did not want to use the MEV or the original exhaust and used the hornet round mid box and bomb exhaust, someone else on the forum used the same company but bought a kit which could be welded. I don't have any welding equipment so this was not an option for me.





The cat did not foul on the MEV frame so I cut the end of and connected a flexi joint to the pipe. The pipe is slightly oval and did not fit correctly so I used an adapter that came with the hornet exhausts to swage it out and generally got it to fit over the cut piece on the cat. Applied lashings of exhaust past and banged it on with a mallet!!!





The mid box did not need any modification and fitted right into the universal flexi joint. After the mid box I used a 750mm flexible exhaust tube to the exhaust. I talked to the company and they cut the tube to my specified length and put two female connectors on the ends.



For the mounts I used a 2" bracket and either the connecting arm that came with it or 10mm stud bent to shape and bolted to the MX5 exhaust rubber and mounting points.












Ran the engine up and everything is ok with the exception of the connection to the inlet of the mid box from the flexi pipe. There is a small leak and I could hear and feel it. Water ran out of the exhuast and dripped through the paste to create this mess on the floor.



I am hoping that now the paste is cured the hole would be closed, but I have not had the opportunity to check yet. Its a small leak, if it is still there will I have to remake the joint or is it something that could remain as is?

Also any comment on possible IVA issue would be appreciated. 

If anyone need links to the bits I purchase let me know and I can put them in another post.

[bewgy]

After making some wiring changes I restarted the car and disappointingly the located the source of the exhaust leak. it is coming through the mesh in the flexible joint and I can only assume the joint is fault and has a hole in it.

I can hear and the pppft and feel the gas escaping all around the joint, I guess this is not normal?


upload images

[bewgy]

I am thinking that I may have damaged it using a mallet to bang it onto the CAT? Maybe exhaust repair tape is an option.

[bewgy]

I solved the starting issue, the battery was not charging. Somehow I had cut a connection to the ECU from the generator. Once I made up the connection the battery started to charge.

However I have another problem, the lights on the cluster will not turn on. Buzzer does not work, high beam light, fog light, battery charge light etc. I have checked all the power and earths to the cluster and they are all fine. I have removed the dimmer switch but connected the grey red wire directly to earth which should by pass the dimmer. When I turn the lights on the milometer lights but nothing else does.

All my lights work and new hazard and fog light switches turn them on. The indicators flash on the cluster, fog lights work but does not light on the cluster. I am quite stuck now everything seems to check out.

I have removed the loom for the hazard light, fog light and dimmer (which I accidentally threw away), I cant help think that this is somehow related to the lights not coming on.

Could I have fried the cluster some how? Does this problem sound familiar, any help appreciated! 

[hammy3601]

Apr 17, 2019 20:01:45 GMT bewgy said:

I am thinking that I may have damaged it using a mallet to bang it onto the CAT? Maybe exhaust repair tape is an option.

I have now found out that flexi solutions leak air, this is what has probably cost me a 1st time pass by upsetting the Lambda. Im having a custom cat back made mate