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Post by bewgy on Oct 2, 2017 20:16:53 GMT
Hi All, I am starting my build story, I have never built a kit car before and I'm learning this as I go along. Needless to say I am going to need help and have lots of questions! I have completed the dismantle and removed the body today. I think the bushing have been replaced at some point and after reading some of the threads I don't want to attempt a bushing replacement. I do want to dismantle the PPF as much as possible, wire brush and paint, especially after seeing some of the threads the paint jobs look really good. Any advice on how far I should go with the dismantle? bearing in mind my novice status! Any advice you have would be gratefully received. Once other question, I remove the rear suspension today and the bottom of the spring look deformed, but they both have the same shape (see pics) is this normal?     |
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Post by bewgy on Oct 2, 2017 20:48:11 GMT
Ok, so I completed some more research and realized that the rear shocks are the correct shape, bear with me and the stupid questions.  |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 2, 2017 21:27:55 GMT
Hi and welcome. Yes the shocks look normal to me.
I would consider changing the bushes if possible, chances are the originals are well worn. They are a pain to get out but very easy to fit new ones.
Always ask questions as it might save you time in the long run!
With the dismantle just take lots of photos of everything before you strip it. They are priceless when it comes to putting it all back together. The PPF and prop shaft can be painted in situ, so maybe save yourself a job there.
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Post by bewgy on Oct 3, 2017 11:58:10 GMT
Thanks Mike, some of the bushing have been replaced. Then ones I have looked at so far upper and lower rear suspension bushing and front sway bay bushing look as good as new and must be replacements. I am going to go through the front and rear suspension to look at them all. Hopefully none will need replacing, but I will change them out if they are bad.
Do I need to replace the whole set or can I just swap out any bad ones if find?
What do you think of the flo-flex budget versions?
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 3, 2017 18:35:52 GMT
I used a cheaper brand and was fairly happy with the quality. The key thing to make sure is that whichever you get the steel crush tubes must extend slightly beyond the edge of the bush when fitted.
Some cheap ones mean that when you clamp them up the bush actually gets tightened which stops them doing their job.
I personally can't see the issue with them all not being matched sets but someone might say other wise.
On a normal street car it is common to only replace ones that have developed play.
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Post by bewgy on Oct 7, 2017 17:08:26 GMT
Quick update Not much work completed this week, removed the fuel tank and fuel/brake lines from the body plus vin plate so she is ready to goto car body heaven. Spent a good few hours today trying to break the axle nuts, unfortunately brakes and body had already been disconnected so I had to put a piece of wood on the wheel and brake caliper to stop the wheel moving. I only have a small breaker bar and use a old washing line pole as an extender..... I am sure the correct tools would have helped. After repeated heating and applying candle wax (saw this on a U tube video) one big CRACK and the nut could be screwed of by hand crazy. So now for the questions...... 1. You can see in the picture below I have kept the fuel/break lines and clips, can these be reused on the exocet? 2. Any idea on how to get rid of the body, without paying? Finally after reading through peoples build and all your comments I have decided to do a complete strip down and powder coat the suspension, this was not the original plan but I think it will be worth while. Thanks guys for all your help so far! ![]() ![]()  |
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Post by tojeiro on Oct 7, 2017 18:16:03 GMT
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Post by miket on Oct 7, 2017 19:23:08 GMT
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Post by bewgy on Oct 7, 2017 19:53:15 GMT
Miket, thanks i like the idea of reusing the clips, quite pleased I can get rid of the old lines they take up a lot of space.
tojeiro, i have an estate, it looks to be the same as yours! Mind you Im not so sure I would enjoy the choping up part. It seems a free pickup and disposal is hard to find, but I will try this week and report on progress.
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Post by bewgy on Oct 8, 2017 11:03:17 GMT
Another update and some more inevitable questions A little work today, which is limited to a couple of hours by the order of wife and kid who are afraid of becoming kit car widows! Removes the rear brakes and started on dismantling the rear suspension. The drivers side rear brake caliper would not come of the slide pin, it rotated easily enough but did not slide. I looked at the pads and this was causing some uneven wear. Few whacks with hammer and chisel persuaded it of. I assume I can by a new pin and get it to slide or maybe a bit of wet n dry. A challenge for another day. Removed the nut and bolt from the upper rear control arm and the nut only from the lower arm on both sides. I tried to turn the long bolt but it did not want to budge, so I have let them soak for while rather than continue with the frustration. I also tried to remove the rear shaft from the hub, on both sides again neither wanted to budge. Any tips on how to remove the long bolt and separate the rear shaft from the hub?  photo upload on internet |
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Post by buildercg on Oct 8, 2017 15:45:01 GMT
Those two long bolts will likely need a lot of persuasion to remove. It took me two weeks of working on them every night to get them out.
I used a can of PB blaster on each, plus heat, plus a 750ft.lb. impact wrench, plus a 5lb. sledgehammer to finally get mine out. It was one of the hardest jobs of my build.
The problem is rust. If I were to do it again I would get a container large enough to submerge the entire rear end and use electrolysis to remove the rust. This would probably have been easier.
Of course, you could cut them instead and buy new ones for $20US plus shipping each.
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Post by bewgy on Oct 9, 2017 21:52:52 GMT
Some success today, after reading how hard it can be to remove the axle from the hub, I decided to disconnect the axle from the differential and work on the long bolt on the bench. My vice is woefully undersized but with a bit of webbing and wood I fixed up a something stable. After pulling and pushing the bolt eventual moved and I managed to get it out. It is quite well rusted. Started to work on the second assembly and the bolt has move 1/4 of a turn. So hopefully tomorrow evening the second bolt will be out! You can see form picture it was quite well rusted. I am not going to temp fate, I will take the hub and axle to the local garage and get them to press it out.   image hosting russiaI could not detect any play in the bushings, I am not sure if you can tell from the picture but they certainly don't look 17 years old. I pretty sure they do not need replacing. But I don't think I can powder coat with the bushings in. Are there any alternatives to power coating so i don't have to remove the bushings? |
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 10, 2017 1:56:17 GMT
You can get them sand blasted then paint.. If you are taking them to a shop to be pressed out have them press the axles out to..
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Post by bewgy on Oct 12, 2017 16:10:16 GMT
Ok, things were going well the rear assembly is dismantled all I had to do was remove the differential. The furthest bolt cracked easily, the bolts with the shoulder not the same story! It will not budge, I have been trying heat, penetrating oil and wax for the past three days. Today the 6 point socket slipped and I am starting to round the nut. I am thinking this thing is well and truly seized and rusted to the differential. I don't need to remove the PPF from the differential for the build, so maybe I should tighten up the first nut and leave it be removing the front end of the PPF only. Pic's are below, any thoughts?   |
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Post by mikeeyboy on Oct 12, 2017 17:33:17 GMT
The PPF hold threads are pressed into it. The official Mazda maintenance manual says that if they are removed you should replace the PPF.
I loosened my bolts and the threaded end fell straight out.
I am not worried about it as after putting it back together they are solid but it is worth baring in mind
Personally though I would say by removing it you are creating additional work that wont achieve much? Just clean it and paint if you must. It is not even remotely visibly once fitted and this is coming from someone who removed and painted it!
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