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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 17, 2017 0:10:23 GMT
Very nice build. All of the prepping and restoring of the parts is awesome. One of the cleanest builds I have seen. What color(s) are you going with on the chassis and body panels? Thanks bud. The suspension and chassis are going to be powder coated Kingsport gray. The body color as well as valve cover, brake caliper, diff cover etc are ral 5002 ultra marine blue. Was considering shocker yellow for the frame and stuff but would have need a black body panel to look right and I'm not into black cars anymore. Show every swirl and its too common. Always wanted a blue car, never had one before. |
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 17, 2017 5:38:44 GMT
Ok so a little help here. I'm looking into wheels and tires. Stuck between the rota grids and the 6uls. Main reason is they have hyperblack color and tungsten colors on the wheels that should be close to my frame color.
Now fm has the 15x9 6ul with rs3 tires around $1400-1500 which is a good deal (shipped and mounted). But they are +36. I'm wanting to run a 225 tire. I have the extended arp studs not sure if running a 36mm spacer is possible or smart.
Also looking at rota grids 16x8 that are +20mm offset which is alot less of a spacer but finding 225/40/16 tires is rather limited.
Anyone have experience with either of these issues? I'm basically looking at a huge spacer or limited tire options. I like the look of the 16" wheels and am ok with the weight penalty of the rotas, but the 6uls have the better tire availability but the spacers are huge to get to a zero offset. I know they make a +12 15x9 available from 949 but there's no wheel and tire package to save me some money. Any advice is appreciated.
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Post by pokeyhokie on Nov 17, 2017 18:45:05 GMT
Why not the Exocet-specific 15x9 ET12 6UL? Granted there aren't a ton of people running them yet, but I own a set, and initial impressions are that you should be OK on rear clearance without a spacer.
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 18, 2017 2:45:01 GMT
Why not the Exocet-specific 15x9 ET12 6UL? Granted there aren't a ton of people running them yet, but I own a set, and initial impressions are that you should be OK on rear clearance without a spacer. Yes I know they are available but as I stated above no wheel and tire package available on fm website that would save me some money... Unless I am missing the link to that package. |
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Post by pokeyhokie on Nov 18, 2017 6:13:16 GMT
Since 949 lists the Exocet wheels at the same price, I would 100% call FM and ask if they'll give you those at the same price as a package. I think your chances would be pretty good. The worst they can say is no!
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 18, 2017 15:45:24 GMT
Since 949 lists the Exocet wheels at the same price, I would 100% call FM and ask if they'll give you those at the same price as a package. I think your chances would be pretty good. The worst they can say is no! Ok I will. I haven't felt with fm before besides an email but I've heard their support is awesome. I'm waiting for the black Friday (well suspension Sunday sale) sale to see if the vmaxx classics are on a decent sale. I will call them this week to inquire about building a package and see if they can help. Still just a little worried about the look of a 15" wheel but the 6ul is so dang light for the price! |
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 18, 2017 15:49:45 GMT
Also I have extended studs so I'm not worried about running a small spacer. With the +12 6ul should I try to run a say 10-20mm spacer to stick the wheels out farther? Even if they don't rub without the spacer. Just wondering if a wider track will improve handling? I think it would improve the look.
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 19, 2017 19:03:41 GMT
New video up. Installing the hub bearings and ARP extended wheel stud install.
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 24, 2017 18:25:52 GMT
new video on bushing install and zerk fittings.
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 24, 2017 18:43:02 GMT
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 25, 2017 4:10:46 GMT
Rear end is completed, time to put it off to the side.  Tomorrow hopefully i will have time to drop the trans and pull the motor and get ready for the rebuild.  |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 25, 2017 5:02:59 GMT
Put the trans mount bolts into a piece of card board so you know the order they are different sizes.. one bolt has a nuts on it for the starter.. Remember you need a good clean metal to metal ground between the PPF and the trans to engine for the ground wire to the rear of the PPF can do its job. Clean threads in PPF for the ground cable to bolt on..
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 27, 2017 2:41:47 GMT
Put the trans mount bolts into a piece of card board so you know the order they are different sizes.. one bolt has a nuts on it for the starter.. Remember you need a good clean metal to metal ground between the PPF and the trans to engine for the ground wire to the rear of the PPF can do its job. Clean threads in PPF for the ground cable to bolt on.. Thanks for the tips. You are most helpful! |
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 27, 2017 3:09:33 GMT
Pulled the motor, then a 1.8 popped up on craigslist for the rigth price and 120k miles The leakdown test as good and even, especially for a cold engine  Here right after I pulled the donor car motor.  NO FREAKING WHEEL NUTS! Both front sides were like this. Holy crap I'm glad I didn't have a loose wheel when i drove this thing.  Driver side, no brake line, thats nice. Seriously the previous owner should never have been allowed to work on cars.  Tearing apart the front suspension arms.  |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 27, 2017 6:52:18 GMT
How far did you drive that without front wheel axle nuts.. lucky you.. You are going to put in the 1.8.. Did you see this from Flying Miata www.flyinmiata.com/miata-performance-parts/na6-1990-93/na6-engine/18-conversion.htmlIn that site click on the "short guide on the swap" as well as more "detailed instructions". If the 1.6 is running good you should be able to get at least 500 for it being a BNC engine.. Remember to pull coils, CAS, fan sensor, oil pressure switch, throttle body, AFM, alternator, and other sensors off the 1.6 before selling.. Good time to do timing belt and water pump and if you might do a turbo down the road tap the oil pan for a fitting and cap it for the oil return.. Info on drilling hole in pan can be found on the FM site under turbo kit click on install info.. |
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