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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 10, 2017 13:40:34 GMT
I managed to free the bolts last night, rust was the problem. See my blog link Moving the assembly to the bench made it a lot easier, rotated the bolt forwards and backwards with breaker bar until they rotated free. The second one is moving now so will hopefully free it tonight. I need to decide if I should remove the bushing and powder coat or shot blast and paint (both would be done by someone else). The bushing are fine and I heard that the cheaper polybushes make for a hard ride, this not a track car more for fun. So I am in too minds, it seems a shame to strip the car all the way down and not replace the bushes. But they look like they have been replaced at some point ins the cars life time. Good news! I wouldn't say poly bushings make a car ride hard just a tad firmer. I haven't ridden in an exocet with them just saying from past experiences on other cars. Your springs will be the biggest difference in the ride. But the stiffer bushings you would appreciate the first time you turn into a corner the car just goes as soon as you turn. No slop or lag at all. |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 12, 2017 3:54:18 GMT
So tonight I got my black es bushings master kit ordered. Still unsure if I will install zersk or not but knowing me if it's not too much work I will do it just because I can.
-Ordered my Eastwood powdercoat gun this week too
-Got my oven for powdercoating picked up and my
240 50 amp circuit wired in my garage.
-picked up a harbor freight media blaster and
media .
-still have to build my powder coat booth.
-ordered a few 1lb samples of powdercoat from prismatic
I will be attempting to powdercoat the control arms and brake calipers myself among other things. I don't have the oven size to bake the subframes and ppf so those will be outsourced along with the frame. I am powdercoating most all metal parts and the main drivetrain parts will be painted with a high temp paint.
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 19, 2017 4:52:41 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 19, 2017 7:45:02 GMT
Brent.. Good show.. A few thing to be noted and corrected.. With the front bolt holding the PPF to diff, after removing the tapered ram bolt and lower spacer there is a sleeve that the bolt pushed up into the top of the PPF into the under side of the top nut..
The way to get the sleeve down is to screw an long bolt into it from the bottom M14x1.5 and twist and pull sleeve down to pull it out of the top nut.. This will free the PPF from diff.
A lot of times the sleeve will be rusted to the block bolted to the diff. Then you can spray and wire brush the sleeve and use a punch through the nut and drive it down about 1/2"..
The top nuts are splined/pressed into the top of PPF and should not be removed.
You should tap your sleeve down (it is up in the pic) before installing the PPF to diff.. Then tap the nut into the PPf and stake the nut in 4 or 6 places around the nut. That should hold it in place to torque them to 77>91 ft. lbs.
Clean and bag all bolts and nuts and label were they go. Some a special types and size..
You are coming along nicely with the skate..
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 19, 2017 18:44:11 GMT
Brent.. Good show.. A few thing to be noted and corrected.. With the front bolt holding the PPF to diff, after removing the tapered ram bolt and lower spacer there is a sleeve that the bolt pushed up into the top of the PPF into the under side of the top nut.. The way to get the sleeve down is to screw an long bolt into it from the bottom M14x1.5 and twist and pull sleeve down to pull it out of the top nut.. This will free the PPF from diff. A lot of times the sleeve will be rusted to the block bolted to the diff. Then you can spray and wire brush the sleeve and use a punch through the nut and drive it down about 1/2".. The top nuts are splined/pressed into the top of PPF and should not be removed. You should tap your sleeve down (it is up in the pic) before installing the PPF to diff.. Then tap the nut into the PPf and stake the nut in 4 or 6 places around the nut. That should hold it in place to torque them to 77>91 ft. lbs. Clean and bag all bolts and nuts and label were they go. Some a special types and size.. You are coming along nicely with the skate.. I have read what you are saying before. But mine was by no means pressed in, just splined. Possibly because of a previous removal, but it will be simple to put back in as well so I don't believe there is any harm doing it the way I removed it, or so it looks. |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 24, 2017 6:07:49 GMT
Alright next video is up. please subscribe if you want to. Sorry this videos wasn't what i wanted it to be but hopefully it will be helpful.
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 24, 2017 19:08:55 GMT
Brent.. Another good video.. Couple of things.. With the rear brake caliper off the rotor.. Did you back off the caliper piston??
These do not push in, there is an adjuster to turn.. It is under the short 14mm bolt on the caliper, then use an allen wrench to with draw the piston to back off the pads.. You will have to move the piston into caliper to install new pads.. After installing pads turn the allen to tighten then against the rotor just so it doesn't turn.. Then back off the allen 1/3 turn, replace the short bolt to cover adjuster..When you lube the slide pins just use a small amount of lube and not on the end of the slide pin, it can stop the caliper from going all the way onto pin.. If you are going to take pistons out of caliper use a little air pressure into the bleed nipple.. don't have your fingers between the piston and caliper when the piston pops out.. A small piece of wood and rag is good to use.. On the bushings depending which brand you use you may have to reuse the outer sleeve for the old bushings.. After powder coating you may have to use a clean out tap on some threaded holes.. Good work so far..
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 25, 2017 1:21:38 GMT
Brent.. Another good video.. Couple of things.. With the rear brake caliper off the rotor.. Did you back off the caliper piston?? These do not push in, there is an adjuster to turn.. It is under the short 14mm bolt on the caliper, then use an allen wrench to with draw the piston to back off the pads.. You will have to move the piston into caliper to install new pads.. After installing pads turn the allen to tighten then against the rotor just so it doesn't turn.. Then back off the allen 1/3 turn, replace the short bolt to cover adjuster..When you lube the slide pins just use a small amount of lube and not on the end of the slide pin, it can stop the caliper from going all the way onto pin.. If you are going to take pistons out of caliper use a little air pressure into the bleed nipple.. don't have your fingers between the piston and caliper when the piston pops out.. A small piece of wood and rag is good to use.. On the bushings depending which brand you use you may have to reuse the outer sleeve for the old bushings.. After powder coating you may have to use a clean out tap on some threaded holes.. Good work so far.. I found out that adjuster last night. Would have helped. The real pain is I can get that snap ring out of the bottom of the piston bore. That thing s a pain. Picks aren't doing it an cannot find a snap ring pliers that will fit. |
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 25, 2017 6:30:47 GMT
Yes the snap ring is a pain to remove.. long nose snap ring pliers are best tool. Are you planing to just paint the calipers right..
If the adjuster is still working right leave them be rebuilt caliper and paint.
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 26, 2017 2:31:33 GMT
Yes the snap ring is a pain to remove.. long nose snap ring pliers are best tool. Are you planing to just paint the calipers right.. If the adjuster is still working right leave them be rebuilt caliper and paint. Nope powdercoating and I want that seal replaced. Ordered a third set of snap ring pliers last night. Very long ones. If these don't reach I don't know what will |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 29, 2017 20:18:46 GMT
New video on the powder coating process is done. I am doing some of the parts myself and most the big stuff is going to my powder coater. Not saying I am doing this right, just showing what I am doing and the results i am getting. Parts are turning out pretty nice!
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 12, 2017 3:48:48 GMT
new video on the brake caliper rebuild
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 12, 2017 4:11:15 GMT
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Post by dewoof01 on Nov 14, 2017 4:10:29 GMT
Fresh from the powder coater a beautiful pile of subframe and control arms. Prismatic powders Kingsport gray  |
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Post by jsmith on Nov 16, 2017 14:53:43 GMT
Very nice build. All of the prepping and restoring of the parts is awesome. One of the cleanest builds I have seen. What color(s) are you going with on the chassis and body panels?
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