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Post by roger32849 on Oct 2, 2017 11:03:26 GMT
Brent: I just watched a couple of your videos. I found them very informative and they would serve as an excellent “ How To” instructional video set. I am assuming you are getting your kit from Kevin Patrick at Exomotive based in Atlanta. He is a good guy to do business with and is very enthusiastic about the MEV Exocet. He is litterly with you every step of the build progress. I bought my Eco-Exo-R kit through him a few years ago. I enjoyed the build so much that I contacted Dove Racing in Trenton Texas, and bought a TR1ke kit. (Exomotive does not market the TR1ke) I am about finished with the build and will be doing test rides quite soon. You will find the MEV exo skeletal kit quite durable and extremely well made. It is truly race track proven, even with a V-8 engine. The Miata is probably the best donor of all the possibilities MEV could have considered. Litterly thousands of them are available worldwide.
I just wanted to say, welcome to the forum and keep posting your progress, I look forward to your posts and your build progress. If I had one suggestion to give you, it would be to save every scrap of paper and every document concerning your build. If you have a clear title to the Miata, you might want to put it in your name. As always, it helps if you know Oregon vehicle code as it applies to kit vehicles.
I see you live in Hillsboro Oregon. I have family in Tigard, and my Mother lived in Molalla and Woodburn. Again, welcome to the forum.
Roger
Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 3, 2017 0:50:42 GMT
Good show.. Now to spray the skate and running gear down with Gunk Walmart cheapest place to get it then pressure clean or hose off.. Take a pic of the VIN on the firewall in place and then cut it off in case you will need it later I don't know the law in OR.. If you are going to remove the power steering the back bolt on the bracket will be covered by a slide spacer just tap it backwards to clear bolt head..Tape up throttle body before spraying engine. Some water might get into plug wells blow them out after cleaning.. Again nice going.. Thanks for the info. Was planning on degreasing everything. Didn't know Walmart was the best. I'll stop there and pick up a fee more cans. Any tips on moving the rollerskate out to the driveway in one pieces with the rear twisting? |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 3, 2017 0:51:44 GMT
There's one local to you. Another in Vancouver, I'm in Camas and another down in the Salem area. send me an email at mike dot wynn at coherent dot com Thanks. I'll shoot an email off to you soon? |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 3, 2017 0:54:29 GMT
Brent: I just watched a couple of your videos. I found them very informative and they would serve as an excellent “ How To” instructional video set. I am assuming you are getting your kit from Kevin Patrick at Exomotive based in Atlanta. He is a good guy to do business with and is very enthusiastic about the MEV Exocet. He is litterly with you every step of the build progress. I bought my Eco-Exo-R kit through him a few years ago. I enjoyed the build so much that I contacted Dove Racing in Trenton Texas, and bought a TR1ke kit. (Exomotive does not market the TR1ke) I am about finished with the build and will be doing test rides quite soon. You will find the MEV exo skeletal kit quite durable and extremely well made. It is truly race track proven, even with a V-8 engine. The Miata is probably the best donor of all the possibilities MEV could have considered. Litterly thousands of them are available worldwide. I just wanted to say, welcome to the forum and keep posting your progress, I look forward to your posts and your build progress. If I had one suggestion to give you, it would be to save every scrap of paper and every document concerning your build. If you have a clear title to the Miata, you might want to put it in your name. As always, it helps if you know Oregon vehicle code as it applies to kit vehicles. I see you live in Hillsboro Oregon. I have family in Tigard, and my Mother lived in Molalla and Woodburn. Again, welcome to the forum. Roger Worcester, Massachusetts Thanks a bunch. Trying to make the video series as a sort of how to and a overall of the build. I hope it will spur on more people to take the leap and build one as it's a fun project for cheap compared to other projects. I have a folder that I have been keeps ng all my documentation in every step of the way. Nice thing about Oregon is they issue you a VIN for the car not use the current Miata vin so the vin issue shouldn't be a problem but I have alot of picture of it from multiple locations on the body just in case. |
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 3, 2017 6:22:42 GMT
It should roll straight never have a problem with any of my skates..Are the bolts tight in the PPF both ends.. Brake dragging??
hardest thing is turning it if you have to without a wheel.. If needed a floor jack under front or rear makes it easy..
When you spray the skate off with water if the trans little boot is torn tape it over. Same with trans and diff vents, vac hoses and brake lines.. I just use the Original Gunk don't need the shiny or heavy duty.. a 2" throw away paint brush helps too. Keep posting..
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 4, 2017 1:59:19 GMT
It should roll straight never have a problem with any of my skates..Are the bolts tight in the PPF both ends.. Brake dragging?? hardest thing is turning it if you have to without a wheel.. If needed a floor jack under front or rear makes it easy.. When you spray the skate off with water if the trans little boot is torn tape it over. Same with trans and diff vents, vac hoses and brake lines.. I just use the Original Gunk don't need the shiny or heavy duty.. a 2" throw away paint brush helps too. Keep posting.. Ok good to know. Wasn't sure how stiff it was without the body. Gonna roll it out this weekend and spray it all down |
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 4, 2017 4:12:55 GMT
Before Gunking take notes and pic for yourself of any oil lube leaks..front seal,CAS,rear seal,trans and diff side seals. might want to put sink rubber plugs into the spark plug holes to keep water out. Note how the wires are in the coil for the plugs, pic.
Watch your eyes when spraying.. Coming along nicely..
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 6, 2017 2:26:40 GMT
Before Gunking take notes and pic for yourself of any oil lube leaks..front seal,CAS,rear seal,trans and diff side seals. might want to put sink rubber plugs into the spark plug holes to keep water out. Note how the wires are in the coil for the plugs, pic. Watch your eyes when spraying.. Coming along nicely.. My engine has so many oil leaks there no way to trace it to one point. The pan gasket is clearly leaking so that I know. I cleaned the whole top of the engine and as much as I could reach of the head when I had the car running. I'm rebuilding so not super concerned with the leaks for now. Just going to replace the seals that are clearly leaking while it's out as to not leak too much oil on the new car. Also probably dealing with a rear main seal which I will replace when I do the trans and clutch |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 6, 2017 2:30:13 GMT
What's everyone using for coilovers? Never been a big fan of coilvers as I have found limited dampening adjustability in the lower end products and high end are beyond my needs. I've always been more of a fan of springs with matched fixed dampers. I find the ride better. That being said I'm interested in coilovers on this build somewhat as that would give me the ability to have the car corner balanced. Not going to spend $1000+ on coilovers as I will not be driving the car hard enough to utilize the ability of a high end $2000+ setup. Any advice is appreciated.
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 6, 2017 5:10:50 GMT
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 6, 2017 5:24:58 GMT
I am aware. Just wondering if the vmaxx regular vs a set of tien ($500) is worth the bump in price for a mainly street build? As I said I've never noticed enough of a difference in dampening from low end coilovers to make it worth it. I'm happy to spend $760 on the vmaxx if that is the best. I'm a penny pincher though. |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 8, 2017 17:59:44 GMT
Chapter 6 video is up. Been working hard this weekend. Now time to clean my oily driveway and my garage that looks like a bomb went off in it. If you like the videos please subscribe to my youtube channel, the more people that like, watch, subscribe gives me the motivation to keep making them.
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Post by bewgy on Oct 9, 2017 8:38:35 GMT
Great videos Brent, unfortunately I am a little ahead of you so it just highlights what I have done wrong  I am at the stage where I am dismantling the rear of the roller skate, but struggling to remove the drive shaft from the hub and the long bolts from the lower arm, any advice? |
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Post by dewoof01 on Oct 10, 2017 2:29:36 GMT
Great videos Brent, unfortunately I am a little ahead of you so it just highlights what I have done wrong I am at the stage where I am dismantling the rear of the roller skate, but struggling to remove the drive shaft from the hub and the long bolts from the lower arm, any advice? We'll share any tips with me because that is the next video. Suspensions and basic drive train are what I do know a tad bit about as I have rebuild them on a few cars. I by no means am doing anything right in these videos just showing what I did and what I found easiest. I'm diving into the rear end in a couple days. Right now working on wiring in a 240v outlet in the garage for my powdercoating oven as I am going to powdercoat most of the suspension pieces myself. Well that's the plan at least. I have heard those drive shafts can be a pain. I guess I will find out. Why won't the bolts come out of the a arms? Are they seized up? Heat and penetrating oil are your friends. |
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Post by bewgy on Oct 10, 2017 11:41:15 GMT
I managed to free the bolts last night, rust was the problem. See my blog link Moving the assembly to the bench made it a lot easier, rotated the bolt forwards and backwards with breaker bar until they rotated free. The second one is moving now so will hopefully free it tonight. I need to decide if I should remove the bushing and powder coat or shot blast and paint (both would be done by someone else). The bushing are fine and I heard that the cheaper polybushes make for a hard ride, this not a track car more for fun. So I am in too minds, it seems a shame to strip the car all the way down and not replace the bushes. But they look like they have been replaced at some point ins the cars life time. |
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