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Post by jwagner on Jan 27, 2017 2:39:42 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 27, 2017 9:35:09 GMT
Front and rear brakes pads min.thickness 1.0mm
Front rotor min thickness 18.0mm
Rear rotor min thickness 8.0mm
Run out front and rear rotors 0.5mm
Parts are cheap.
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Post by russ872 on Jan 30, 2017 20:18:44 GMT
My DMV inspection was last Tuesday. Just missed driving through the rains.
I did Brake and Lamp in December. Avoid a "real shop". First place I went.. epic fail.
The biggies: SS Brake lines are not DOT approved. Reverse light was not DOT. Switch to turn on the high beams (I have LEDs which require a separate switch) was not a DOT switch (WTF?). Other BS like the Hand Brake indicator light must work when the hand brake is on... He inspected it based on 2016 standards, since DMV did not say it was going to be a 1965 car.
I did not change a thing, and went to a small shop in the boonies... pass.. LOL!! So choose your inspection location wisely.
Based on Sean's experience, I got my windshield bracket last weekend. All painted and ready for glass. I'm taking it a small local shop to cut and glue it in.
Also ordered aluminum fenders. Currently re-bending all of the kit fender brackets since my wheels hit them.
I'm going to take a shot at NOT doing the windshield wiper. I'm going to a BAR in LA that recently passed another exocet 3 weeks ago. If you're ready in about 2 weeks, perhaps we can hit up the same guy. It'll be a exo-party!!
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Post by SeanW on Jan 30, 2017 20:47:03 GMT
I did Brake and Lamp in December. Avoid a "real shop". First place I went.. epic fail. The biggies: SS Brake lines are not DOT approved. Reverse light was not DOT. Switch to turn on the high beams (I have LEDs which require a separate switch) was not a DOT switch (WTF?). Other BS like the Hand Brake indicator light must work when the hand brake is on... He inspected it based on 2016 standards, since DMV did not say it was going to be a 1965 car. I did not change a thing, and went to a small shop in the boonies... pass.. LOL!! So choose your inspection location wisely. The Brake and Light inspection was such a comical joke, beyond finding a shop that would do it in the first place. I ended up paying what equates to a bribe in order to pass because of some cracked rule he cited (which I've not been able to find printed anywhere) about the warning light for the brake fluid level needing to coming on if the level sensor is disconnected. I'm glad that you were able to find somebody who gets it! |
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Post by calibuild on Feb 7, 2017 5:06:34 GMT
Hey - a bit behind on the updates..... Jwagner - thanks for the link. After reading up on urethane it seems to be very good at what it does! Kind of freaked me out, so I went with RTV, placed the windshield in an edge trim to give it something more to bond to. It's curing, so will see how it works out. Also found that bending the dash mount tabs back a little is helpful to change the angle of the gauge pod and make the turn signals visible. Likely not an issue on every build as it'll depend on how people center the steering column, which can be driven by seat choice, donor, etc. Russ872 - let me know where you go! Would love to follow up on it. All this rain is making it hard for me to get my brakes & lamp inspection done (plus I didn't something to make brakes...). I'm debating on where to go for the inspection. The legit place is $100, the place that seeeems shady is $150.... haha Decisions! What I did manage to do is sew a hand brake cover, and a cover for the metal bracket that links up to the brake cables. Before:  After (top photo is the cover for the linking bracket, bottom is the cover for the hand brake):  As far as my brakes, I changed the rear rotors and now screwed something up. Can't get them to actually stop the wheel anymore, even after turning the hidden allen key. Will have to tear it all down and figure it out. |
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Post by calibuild on Feb 11, 2017 19:57:52 GMT
Got the windshield installed today, and it does make a difference. Keeps a lot of the wind in your hair versus on your face  The windshield and mount are all from Exocet, probably cheaper elsewhere but eh. Put trim on the bottom of the windshield then used RTV silicon to glue together. It still leaves a gap, so on the sides put window spline to wedge it in, and provide support against the head winds. Overall, very pleased.  The part that is driving me crazy now are the rear brakes. Put new rotors on, simple enough. Compressed the piston, remounted, used the allen key to move the piston back out, but now can't get the hand brake tight enough. I had to take the lines off to get the caliper off the rotor. Done the brakes 4 times now.... Anybody know what the bottom nut in this picture does (looks brown-ish)? The two that hold the line to the bracket, I tried adjusting to make tighter (assume you make the brake line between the wheel and bracket as long as possible).  |
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 11, 2017 20:54:38 GMT
That is just a crush sleeve to hold cover in place.. Did you loosen the adjustment at the E brake handle so not pulling the cables.
Do cables move slide freely in there housings.. Brakes are bleed right.. Re adjust allan screw just tight to stop rotors then 1/4 back off.. Adjust cables at the caliper looks like you have a lot of slack in cable take some out. Make sure rotor still turns like after you did adjustment to allal screw. Now adjust the handle start drag up 3 notches lock up up 7..
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Post by calibuild on Feb 13, 2017 1:48:47 GMT
Good call Gwnwar. Adjusted the hand brake to pull in the line, and then on each wheel shortened the length between the bracket and brake. Last piece was to also adjust the allen key.
It's 95% done... just a few cosmetic things to go and the fuel filler. The windshield makes a big difference keeping the wind in the hair versus in the face
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Post by calibuild on Feb 16, 2017 2:56:14 GMT
My DMV inspection was last Tuesday. Just missed driving through the rains. I did Brake and Lamp in December. Avoid a "real shop". First place I went.. epic fail. The biggies: SS Brake lines are not DOT approved. Reverse light was not DOT. Switch to turn on the high beams (I have LEDs which require a separate switch) was not a DOT switch (WTF?). Other BS like the Hand Brake indicator light must work when the hand brake is on... He inspected it based on 2016 standards, since DMV did not say it was going to be a 1965 car. I did not change a thing, and went to a small shop in the boonies... pass.. LOL!! So choose your inspection location wisely. Based on Sean's experience, I got my windshield bracket last weekend. All painted and ready for glass. I'm taking it a small local shop to cut and glue it in. Also ordered aluminum fenders. Currently re-bending all of the kit fender brackets since my wheels hit them. I'm going to take a shot at NOT doing the windshield wiper. I'm going to a BAR in LA that recently passed another exocet 3 weeks ago. If you're ready in about 2 weeks, perhaps we can hit up the same guy. It'll be a exo-party!!
Hey Russ872 - how did it go at the BAR? I might be headed there soon if you had success.
Passed Brake & Lamp today, then figured I might as well head over to the DMV even though my appointment was for next week. Went to a different DMV this time, so much better! Hour in line, then another 2 hours while they did the paper work, but got my SPCNS number and temporary permit!  Lesson learned, I'll be going back to that DMV for subsequent visits.
Now to address the high idle, fuel filler, charcoal box, battery box, and wheel fenders. Has anybody tried an electrical conduit box as a battery box? The plastic boxes all seem a bit to big for the smaller Miata battery (can definitely make them work), but can get an 8x8x8 conduit box for less than $30.
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Post by calibuild on Feb 18, 2017 21:35:32 GMT
Got the battery box figured out, will have to order the mounting strap as it doesn't come with one though. Box is a perfect fit.  When it comes to the high idle, cleaned and verified the throttle body is closing all the way. Unplugged the idle air control and it goes down to about 1150 versus 1250 with it in. Assume that means it's working (I've read it should go down with it unplugged but not sure how much). Took it off, moves a little when turned to "on" (not started). Also read there's an unused "plug" at the back of the engine, and the cap can get brittle and crack or fall off. Can't find anything that meets that description. The upper left of the pic has a small black cap (just below the tube that runs to the brake booster), assume that's it? Otherwise at this point I'm convinced it's a vacuum leak, although I've tried the propane method to no avail. Thoughts / suggestions welcome  |
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 19, 2017 4:09:42 GMT
You thinking about the NA engine vac port for the hose and hard line the goes from the lower (very low) back side of the intake manifold pointing toward the firewall.. goes to the Vacuum Diaphragm on left side of the automatic transmission.. It was a cap just like used on rear of your '99 intake..
Were did you get box from,, part number and cost please. Has cover right..
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Post by calibuild on Feb 28, 2017 5:38:09 GMT
My DMV inspection was last Tuesday. Just missed driving through the rains. I did Brake and Lamp in December. Avoid a "real shop". First place I went.. epic fail. The biggies: SS Brake lines are not DOT approved. Reverse light was not DOT. Switch to turn on the high beams (I have LEDs which require a separate switch) was not a DOT switch (WTF?). Other BS like the Hand Brake indicator light must work when the hand brake is on... He inspected it based on 2016 standards, since DMV did not say it was going to be a 1965 car. I did not change a thing, and went to a small shop in the boonies... pass.. LOL!! So choose your inspection location wisely. Based on Sean's experience, I got my windshield bracket last weekend. All painted and ready for glass. I'm taking it a small local shop to cut and glue it in. Also ordered aluminum fenders. Currently re-bending all of the kit fender brackets since my wheels hit them. I'm going to take a shot at NOT doing the windshield wiper. I'm going to a BAR in LA that recently passed another exocet 3 weeks ago. If you're ready in about 2 weeks, perhaps we can hit up the same guy. It'll be a exo-party!! Hey Russ - how did it go? I'm just waiting on my paperwork from the DMV so I can schedule BAR....
Gwnwar - battery box is from Walmart. Atwood, series 16. It says it comes with the strap, but it doesn't it.
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Post by calibuild on Mar 4, 2017 0:28:54 GMT
After 2 weeks of waiting on the DMV learned that "something" was missing in the paperwork filed, but nobody knows what it is... and it'll be another 2 weeks until I find out.
Until then, could use help with the high idle. Idles around 1100 once warmed up, and idle high as a donor when I bought it. The CEL code was "P0507 IAC RPM Higher then Expected". Open to advice, below is what I've done:
Smoke tested for leaks via the brake booster: None detected TEN to GRND: Done, idle screw can only be moved a quarter turn down which isn't enough Throttle Body: Removed throttle cable and cleaned interior to ensure full closure is being achieved ISC or IAC valve: Removed and verified it "moves" when the engine comes on (how much it should move.....?) Disconnected the plug to the ISC and verified the RPMs change when plugged in versus not
Appreciate your thoughts |
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Post by jwagner on Mar 4, 2017 19:34:04 GMT
I would keep looking for a vacuum leak. Make sure the injectors are pushed all the way down into the block - we had a leak there. Also left open a vacuum nipple on the underside/inside of the intake manifold that was supposed to be used for the VICS unplugged.
Some kind of stethoscope for looking for vacuum leaks can be useful. I pulled the plastic end off a $4 harbor freight stethoscope so it was just open ended tubes to the earpieces and that worked pretty well. A piece of vacuum hose would do the same thing.
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Post by russ872 on Mar 4, 2017 20:08:51 GMT
My DMV inspection was last Tuesday. Just missed driving through the rains. I did Brake and Lamp in December. Avoid a "real shop". First place I went.. epic fail. The biggies: SS Brake lines are not DOT approved. Reverse light was not DOT. Switch to turn on the high beams (I have LEDs which require a separate switch) was not a DOT switch (WTF?). Other BS like the Hand Brake indicator light must work when the hand brake is on... He inspected it based on 2016 standards, since DMV did not say it was going to be a 1965 car. I did not change a thing, and went to a small shop in the boonies... pass.. LOL!! So choose your inspection location wisely. Based on Sean's experience, I got my windshield bracket last weekend. All painted and ready for glass. I'm taking it a small local shop to cut and glue it in. Also ordered aluminum fenders. Currently re-bending all of the kit fender brackets since my wheels hit them. I'm going to take a shot at NOT doing the windshield wiper. I'm going to a BAR in LA that recently passed another exocet 3 weeks ago. If you're ready in about 2 weeks, perhaps we can hit up the same guy. It'll be a exo-party!! Hey Russ - how did it go? I'm just waiting on my paperwork from the DMV so I can schedule BAR....
Gwnwar - battery box is from Walmart. Atwood, series 16. It says it comes with the strap, but it doesn't it.
BAR was yesterday. I passed with zero drama. Registered as a 65 lotus 7 replica. Ref didn't spend more than 15 seconds looking at the car. I did have fenders and the glass windshield. I did not have wipers. I was so relieved that I didn't think to query him on what he was looking for, other than the PCV valve. I went to Mira Mesa College in San Diego. Last stop is the DMV for plates. I'm now investigating better ways to attach the metal fenders. They vibrate way too much. First autocross next weekend. Then start buying turbo parts. :-) |
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Lesson learned, I'll be going back to that DMV for subsequent visits.