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Post by einy on Jul 4, 2017 23:37:45 GMT
Use a small pipe wrench on the trans square plug.
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Post by jwagner on Jul 5, 2017 15:57:37 GMT
I used an adjustable (crescent) wrench.
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Post by darkling on Jul 6, 2017 10:12:32 GMT
my quote is 600 to in a custom color to they will even come pick it up and drop off
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Post by shaun on Jul 8, 2017 6:52:58 GMT
Another note on the pictures...if you take not pictures on your phone like I do, then I use the Tapatalk app, no uploading to other sites first, just choose the picture you want to put on and then it uploads it for you, I presume to their own servers, and then pastes all the BBcode and link etc into where your typing automatically, don't know if there is a limit, but I haven't hit it yet! Anyway, this may be no help at all, but hopefully it is!
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Post by calibuild on Jul 8, 2017 19:10:41 GMT
Another note on the pictures...if you take not pictures on your phone like I do, then I use the Tapatalk app, no uploading to other sites first, just choose the picture you want to put on and then it uploads it for you, I presume to their own servers, and then pastes all the BBcode and link etc into where your typing automatically, don't know if there is a limit, but I haven't hit it yet! Anyway, this may be no help at all, but hopefully it is! Thanks for the rec! Trying it now as I've got the fenders on, will try to post better pics later. I welded tabs on the brackets, the tabs had holds drilled, bolt thru those holes to a corresponding tab with a nut welded on and glued to the underside of the fender. Pulled it from the Exomotive build guide. Couple comments. Ended up welding a 1 inch extension in my rear front brackets, and drilling a new hole there. Each bracket has about a 3/4th inch gap to the tire. The rear front brackets required the most bending, back in towards the center of the car to get off the sidewall, and then the part that comes back over the tire had do be pushed back down. The rear rear brackets, these are tough to get to line up as you're both drilling the nub and bracket. Get a friend to help you out and hold the bracket in place while you mark off the bottom hole. The upper hole, I used a piece of tub, filled with a bit a grease, and then while a person held it in place, blew into the tub, spraying the grease on the bracket to mark where to drill. Clearly a highly scientific method, but it worked reasonably well. I'm sure someone has a better way, but eh. I like the clean look on top, just personal preference.  |
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Post by calibuild on Jul 8, 2017 19:16:21 GMT
I used an adjustable (crescent) wrench. Thanks for the tips einy and jwagner.... and it worked! Looks like somebody put thread lock on it previously. Made a bit of a mess putting the oil in. I used this thing to pump oil in. It works, but the bottom is so big it doesnt fit in the oil bottle. If you're shopping for something, I'd recommend spending an extra couple dollars for something better.  |
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Post by shaun on Jul 8, 2017 19:58:19 GMT
I see the pictures work now, hope the app works ok!
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Post by einy on Jul 10, 2017 23:34:57 GMT
Careful tightening that guy back up. It is a tapered plug, so tighter equals more radial stress on the case at the place around the plug hole. I am sure someone out there will disagree, but I always put one turn of plumbers tape around the threads before reassembly. Just make sure none gets into the box itself! Three Miata's worth of experience doing this and no problems, no leaks.
BTW, I sure like the shade of yellow you chose for your bodywork!
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Post by calibuild on Jul 13, 2017 1:32:21 GMT
Careful tightening that guy back up. It is a tapered plug, so tighter equals more radial stress on the case at the place around the plug hole. I am sure someone out there will disagree, but I always put one turn of plumbers tape around the threads before reassembly. Just make sure none gets into the box itself! Three Miata's worth of experience doing this and no problems, no leaks. BTW, I sure like the shade of yellow you chose for your bodywork! Thanks. IMO the fenders make it look much better for the street. Very pleased with how it came out, and I definitely hit the 'over' on the 100 hours estimated build time. Last thing, black powder coat, wow can it get hot in the sun in a hurry. Guessing any color gets hot, but for the next builder, just something to think about. Last things to do are mount the interior hazards button and power plug to keep the phone battery up while running GPS. Debating the rear spoiler. Looks cool, but at almost 1K.......  |
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Post by calibuild on Jul 16, 2017 18:14:15 GMT
Couple updates: fenders, ended up having to bend the brackets further back inward towards the center of the car due to vibration. Bigger bumps cause the bracket to vibrate and hit the inner rim of the wheel. Will keep adjusting.
P0421 (Warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1) lite up on the CEL. I have a 1999, but swapped for an '01 header, thus have no pre-cat. Ohm'd both O2 sensors, got 15.7 and 16.1 which seems inline with the 15.7 ohm factory recommendation. Any thoughts?
Also got an Evap leak, probably RTV the elbows.
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Post by calibuild on Jul 23, 2017 18:38:20 GMT
Okay...... went to lengthen my O2 sensor wires, clipped them, soldered on extensions.... and have now realize I have 2 black wires... 2 black, 1 blue and 1 white. None of this matches the Miata wiring diagram. Any clever ideas for how to determine which black wire goes from the plug to which black wire goes to the opposite black wire on the sensor? Update: took the car apart and uninstalled the other sensor. Blue wire with black horizontal at the plug matches to the black wire at the sensor that is to the right of the blue wire if holding the sensor pointing away from your body.  |
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Post by calibuild on Sept 4, 2017 15:47:34 GMT
Hi all - could use some insight into P0455, an Evap Leak. I've tried a number of things, but keep getting the CEL code.
When it comes to the charcoal canisters, I removed the stock ones and made my own custom versions. I also re-hooked up the sensor that connects to the line that comes out of the charcoal box on the stock miata (above rear passenger wheel).
Would that have any impact? I've done a number of things to try to ensure no leaks coming from the filler, vent tube etc.
Appreciate the input!
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 4, 2017 17:34:23 GMT
A loose not tight/sealed/wrong gas cap will make code too.
To remove code if no reader remove neg. battery cable for a few seconds and step on brake pedal.. reinstall cable see if it comes back..
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Post by calibuild on Sept 30, 2017 16:33:36 GMT
A loose not tight/sealed/wrong gas cap will make code too. To remove code if no reader remove neg. battery cable for a few seconds and step on brake pedal.. reinstall cable see if it comes back.. Good call Gwnwar. Got a locking gas cap for around $10. Took it for a spin, the CEL is still on, but might need to be run again. Picked up a $15 OBD2 scanner, so I can clear it, but trying to be sure the other codes I cleared previously are fixed and not coming back. The only thing I can think is somehow my DIY charcoal box isn't working right....  |
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 30, 2017 18:59:56 GMT
Did you clear all codes?? Do that if other codes not fixed they will come back..
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