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Post by jsmith on Aug 24, 2016 18:26:16 GMT
Sounds like you might be pressing on the shoulder, where the bearing would seat. Clean the grease out and double check what you're pressing against. You should be able to pop the seal out with a screw driver or a small seal puller.
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Post by phocup on Aug 24, 2016 19:43:55 GMT
Wow .. so I think you're right and I'm pressing on the shoulder ( doh! didn't even know it had one ). More researching shows the seal should look like this  And NOT what I previously thought from searching for parts below.  |
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Post by phocup on Aug 25, 2016 18:09:06 GMT
My kit should be shipping out next week .. just dropped a bunch of stuff off to the powdercoater .. found a place that gave me a sweetheart deal because they wanted to powder the Exo frame and take pictures for their website.
This is starting to get real.
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Post by nickmpower on Aug 26, 2016 15:01:46 GMT
What is the powder coat running you and where are you having it done? I am in San Jose as well and will need to have mine powder coated (if I actually end up ordering). I found a well reviewed place on yelp and one of the reviews said they did his dune buggy frame for $500...that seems really cheap! What color are you going with?
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Post by phocup on Aug 26, 2016 22:28:26 GMT
Hey Nick, the shop is RC Refinishing. Its a small shop with excellent 5* Yelp review. Aside from powder, they also do ceramic exhaust coating. As far as color I'm going with RAL1016 ( Sulfur Yellow ) for the frame color and gloss black body panel. The powder coat is estimated at $625. It would have been even cheaper if I did a basic color .. like gloss black.  I dropped off 12 parts ( 8 control arms + the 2 rear hub carrier + the 2 front hub spindle ) and that was $300 for gloss black. I'll update re: quality when its done and I get everything back. That brings me to the con about this shop. Its a 10-15 day turn around time for most jobs. Not great when I'm impatiently waiting to get my PPF back together. Another shop that I kind feel bad about not using is Santa Clara Powder ( SCP ). David, the owner / very nice guy, quoted me about $650 for the labor. Then for my color powder, he said would need a 25# tub which is an additional $300. For gloss black, I think it would have been closer to RC's quote. The big plus to SCP is that they HAVE done Exo frames before, so probably worth a look if you're shopping around. |
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Post by cubesolver on Aug 26, 2016 22:42:51 GMT
Hey phocup,
I'm also in the bay area, and I was wondering if your hood or bumper are in good condition / are you selling them?
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Post by phocup on Aug 26, 2016 23:03:13 GMT
Hood and front bumper is in good physical condition but paint is rough. I've been meaning to list a bunch of stuff for sale on CL but have not gotten around to it.
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Post by Fin on Aug 30, 2016 17:51:32 GMT
. today was a really bad day trying to get all the bushings out of the control arms. The 3 finger bearing puller is a b*tch to use. It takes forever to line up on the very small metal lip outside the bushing.  Does the ball joint (bolt with the metal cap) just push out of the arm? The one at the apex of the A frame? |
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Post by phocup on Aug 30, 2016 18:52:12 GMT
Yup. The ball joint came out pretty easy.
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Post by Fin on Aug 30, 2016 20:18:55 GMT
Yup. The ball joint came out pretty easy. Thanks. Mine haven't! |
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Post by phocup on Aug 30, 2016 22:02:31 GMT
Hmm, strange. Check for weld marks ? I know some places recommend placing some tack welds to keep it in place.
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Post by nickmpower on Aug 30, 2016 23:29:55 GMT
Hey Nick, the shop is RC Refinishing. Its a small shop with excellent 5* Yelp review. Aside from powder, they also do ceramic exhaust coating. As far as color I'm going with RAL1016 ( Sulfur Yellow ) for the frame color and gloss black body panel. The powder coat is estimated at $625. It would have been even cheaper if I did a basic color .. like gloss black. I dropped off 12 parts ( 8 control arms + the 2 rear hub carrier + the 2 front hub spindle ) and that was $300 for gloss black. I'll update re: quality when its done and I get everything back. That brings me to the con about this shop. Its a 10-15 day turn around time for most jobs. Not great when I'm impatiently waiting to get my PPF back together. Another shop that I kind feel bad about not using is Santa Clara Powder ( SCP ). David, the owner / very nice guy, quoted me about $650 for the labor. Then for my color powder, he said would need a 25# tub which is an additional $300. For gloss black, I think it would have been closer to RC's quote. The big plus to SCP is that they HAVE done Exo frames before, so probably worth a look if you're shopping around. The place I found was: www.yelp.com/biz/br-and-f-spray-santa-claraGreat reviews, but honestly I would probably feel more comfortable paying extra for a shop that has done an exocet before, lots more nooks and crannies than wheels or a bike frame. Let us know how it turns out. |
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Post by phocup on Aug 31, 2016 3:18:05 GMT
Nick, one of the 5 star review for BR&F is mine! Did they give you a quote for the exo frame? I was told by the owner his oven can't fit the exo frame so he recommended me to SCP. Maybe I was just annoying him asking for a bunch of quotes .. LOL.
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Post by phocup on Aug 31, 2016 7:29:32 GMT
Any tip for reconnecting the tranny to the engine ?
Had the clutch / flywheel bolted on and aligned using a clutch alignment tool. There wiggle room so I don't know if we're laser dead center, but its reasonably close visually. Now we're having a hell of a time getting the 'rod' to slide into the hole where the clutch alignment tool was. Feel like it keeps hitting around the pilot bearing but never going in there directly. Feels like there's something we're not doing right so wanted to check to see if we're doing something wrong or if its just a normally a huge pain to align.
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Post by jsmith on Aug 31, 2016 14:34:02 GMT
If the alignment tool will slide easily in and out, so should the shaft from the transmission. Sometimes you have to rotate the transmission slightly as your sliding it towards the motor to get the splines to line up. Also check to make sure the throw out bearing and the lever for it are back far enough on the transmission shaft that they are not causing things to bind up. Do you have a couple pictures of the tranny and the engine side?
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