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Post by gwnwar on Jul 28, 2017 19:25:45 GMT
For TB & WP see this it is for an NA but same TB set up on '99 get torque spec for '99 crank bolt.. www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html You could also Google how to.. FYI Intake cam will not stay in place it will rotate CW so use 2 wrench and clamp.. When setting cam gear marks to plate get down so you look straight in.. Must have the 19 teeth BETWEEN top cam gears marks.. Do the crank rotation after belt on then set tension on belt. ONLY the spring pressure.. Rotate crank again to check all 3 marks.. When/if replacing cam/crank seals cut a smooth piece from a plastic bottle and wrap it around the surface of cam/crank seal surface so as not to scratch surface when pulling seal.. I use a Lisle Shaft Seal Puller Tool. Don't like the big claw type.. You can spot check crank end play by pushing crank pulley back with large screwdriver of pipe/board.. watch it for forward movement as someone steps on the clutch pedal to floor. If you can see it move it is bad. always recheck with dial gauge on engine, can be done with engine in car.. push it back then pry it forward.. With crank end play out of spec you might be able to same lower end if metal on crank and block is not missing.. won't know till you get it apart.. If you need to replace the crank and block you can use a NA 1.8 unit and change head over. Guess you are not using the crank angle sensor on pulley. So you won't have to tap hole for it in block.. hole is already there not tapped.. Easy way to break crank bolt just loose is pull harness coil connector from coils.. use a socket , breaker bar and short length of pipe on bolt and top of frame or ground on exhaust side of engine and just tap key to crank engine a little just to break it loose. |
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Post by phocup on Jul 28, 2017 23:28:39 GMT
Thanks gwnwar. Turned car on for a few minutes today to see if noise goes away when warm or not. It doesn't. Also tried spraying timing belt and pulleys with water to see if it does anything. It didn't.
I did get a close listen though and it seems more like its coming from the head. Is there anything inside the block / head that would make that squealing noise in issue #1 ?
For TB I have something similar to FlyingMiata's tool so should be able to pull the crank bolt. The dial gauge gets here tomorrow so I'll do some testing then and presoak the bolt in penetrating fluid as well in preparation. Using engine to break it loose sounds brilliant and frightening at the same time.
I'll keep you updated when I have more to report. Just got a transmission jack so getting back in there for the throw out bearing will keep me busy this weekend.
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Post by phocup on Jul 30, 2017 22:00:16 GMT
Still chasing the noises above .. waiting for my timing belt kit to come so figure I would pull and replace the trans with a spare 5 speed.
Upon removal, throw out bearing looks like install correctly and no sign of physical damage. It does have a certain amount of free play with between the lever / shaft / bearing assembly though. Not seeing anything that could be tightented up more. Can anyone tell me if this is 'normal' amount or if perhaps I have defective part somewhere in there ?
Now if its NOT throw out bearing .. next up is clutch slave ?
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 31, 2017 4:35:32 GMT
Have you checked the end play yet?? Now is the time to do it.
Movement of fork look OK
That is way to much grease on the input shaft..You don't want that much around the end. It could get thrown outward and on to flywheel surface. Just a light smear on end and on spline..
Don't forget to install TOB fork boot right before installing the trans.
Sounds like the cam tappets need adjusting too.Fun job..
Do you have good oil to the cams..
Were did you get the engine from does it have any warranty if end play is bad..
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Post by phocup on Jul 31, 2017 6:02:59 GMT
Actually my dial gauge just got in today so I did check end play on both trans input shaft and ! As far as the tranny ... Old tranny's input shaft spins pretty smooth and has .028" or .7112 mm of end play. I'm swapping in a 'spare' junkyard trans that hopefully doesn't leak like mine does ( seller claims no leaks ). The new trans spins about as smooth, and has .020" or .5mm of end play. We will see how that goes in the car. Also on inspection I found that I didn't grease the two tips of the fork that held the T/O bearing on, so perhaps that was causing some noise ? Whether that was the cause of the noise I'm chasing or not remain to be seen. Will be greasing that portion on reinstall ( and less grease on the input shaft ). About the engine ... The crank shaft end play actually measured very low. Did the test 3x and got .002", .004", .004" Followed the instruction here ( did-it-myself.com/miata-crank-end-play-measurement/ ) so hopefully its correct. Perhaps there's a tolerance on the dial guage itself as well since I'm only using a $35 amazon unit. As far as the tappet sound, are you hearing that in my first video ( ISSUE #1 ? ). I added the correct amount of new oil ( Rotella T6 ) to the motor when I started it but no idea how much of that is making it to the cams. So far no oil leaks found yet when inspecting the block. No warranty on motor unfortunately. I thought I got a really good deal on it when I bought it. Compression tested and leak down tested. Both checked out, but .. we will see if actually good or not. |
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 31, 2017 17:40:35 GMT
When you do take the cam cover off and check the cam/valve clearance.. Cold lobe up intake cam 0.009in. exhaust 0.013in.
There are shims to adjust clearance.. That is another story..
When you did crank check did you pry/push the crank back not just tap it some.. Zero gauge then pry pulley forward.
Use a long piece of 2x4 or very long screwdriver (I have a 30 incher) between the front sway and crank pulley to move it back hard..
or 2 large screwdrivers behind flywheel if trans is out. ( ? Is engine out of the car).
Did you spin check the TOB and the pilot bearing to check for clicking noise..
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Post by phocup on Aug 12, 2017 6:21:46 GMT
Since my test with the crank shaft end play measured low, I decided to look elsewhere for an issue. Figuring my used clutch kit is the problem, I bought a new one, pulled tranny again, and installed EVERYTHING again, being meticulous this time that everything lined up perfectly, is torqued correctly, and is lubed properly.
First start .. same sound. damn IT !!
Talking to a few folks on the FB group, they suggested again it was crank shaft walk. I also found this video ( ) that shows the same symptom as mine .. and it was crank shaft walk.
Busted out the dial caliper again and took a video of my measurement. Here's that video.
Step by step:
1. Pushed the crank pulley back in as much as I can. I didn't actually FEEL any movement here.
2. Caliper started at at -12 ( my caliper isn't zeroed ), I confirmed it was touching the nose bolt by pushing it back a bit ( I assume this tilts the car / engine just a hair and showed movement of a few hundredth on the caliper, then it returns to the original position ).
3. Pressed in the clutch.
First press, biggest movement. It went from -.012 to .005, then settled back to 0 when I let go of the clutch. So the movement here is either +12 or +17.
Second press, went to +5 again, but settled back to +1.
Third press, went to about +6, but settled back to +2.
I assume that when I press the clutch, I'm actually pushing the entire car ( on stands ) forward causing a high reading and the true value of the movement is when the clutch is released.
That means my movement is about .012" or .3048mm. The service bulletin PDF says "If end play is 0.3mm or more, proceed to STEP 3 - replace engine". That's REALLY borderline. However, the symptom described on that PDF "A rattling noise may be heard from the engine when depressing the clutch or when revving the engine in neutral" also matches my issue.
I'm going to start looking for a new motor.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 13, 2017 15:05:52 GMT
Yes your readings are out of spec.. To do the test right the dial gauge should have been mounted to the engine not to a vice on the floor.. Push/force the engine crank back with a pry bar (not just your hand) between the sway bar and the pulley. Zero meter.. then pry the pulley forward with the bar.. Check gauge tell tail for how far it moved not just were it is when you let off pressure..
Using the clutch pedal to move crank is just really for movement you can really see and hear or first test..
You are still out of spec your way..
If you can find a good low mileage 1.8 engine just swap over the head from the '99. The '99 '00 engines are hard to find because the head is what people are looking for to put on early 1.8s..
Heads are going for $300 plus..
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Post by phocup on Sept 24, 2017 16:40:51 GMT
Quick update. Definitely an issue with the old motor. I just swapped in a VVT motor yesterday with the same clutch and same transmission. After it started, pushed clutch pedal to the floor and it was smooth and silent. The clutch at least. The motor sounded like **** because timing was not set and running on 87 vs 91 for VVT.
I then proceeded to wire in the NB2 coil to hopefully test drive .. and about a day of trouble shooting later found out that I needed to have my MS3 installed for it to work. Without MS, the NB2 coil doesn't work with the OEM ECU and the car immediately dies.
Off to wire in MS3 and beg for a VVT NA map.
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