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Post by gwnwar on Aug 12, 2016 22:46:57 GMT
Any hot spots on flywheel or plate.. Are all the plate forks at the same height..If not replace it.. Spin throw out brg. is it smooth and no clicks. Check pilot bearing in flywheel for smooth turning. If it or TOB gabs at all replace them. Disc looks ok to use..
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Post by phocup on Aug 16, 2016 0:44:32 GMT
Thanks Gwnwar, I did all the check you suggested and everything looks okay. Think the clutch is okay to reuse. Going to pair it with a Fidanza wheel so fingers crossed I don't have to go back in there. In other news .. today was a really bad day trying to get all the bushings out of the control arms. The 3 finger bearing puller is a b*tch to use. It takes forever to line up on the very small metal lip outside the bushing. Then I tried the press .. and well, that was a bad idea. The front upper arm sheet metal actually BENT before the bushing budged. WTF!
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Post by h20boynz on Aug 16, 2016 3:58:08 GMT
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Post by phocup on Aug 16, 2016 5:16:59 GMT
That looks good and the price is really good for having bushing and ball joint included also. Wish I saw that before I bought my replacement bushing set and new ball joint . Would hate to have one new set to go waste so I just pulled a trigger on a cheap $25 OEM that will need some restoration / paint. Fingers crossed they'll work out.
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Post by phocup on Aug 16, 2016 16:54:28 GMT
Learning the hard way that having the RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB is key. Figured out today that less than $10 for a few PVC / steel pipe fittings to properly position my control arm into the press would have saved me HOURS of headache and cussing yesterday. Not to mention bending one arm that will cost me much more than $10 to replace. Urg.
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Post by h20boynz on Aug 16, 2016 18:50:26 GMT
Learning the hard way that having the RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB is key. Figured out today that less than $10 for a few PVC / steel pipe fittings to properly position my control arm into the press would have saved me HOURS of headache and cussing yesterday. Not to mention bending one arm that will cost me much more than $10 to replace. Urg. Oh yeah...you'll find yourself needing a few things probably. I bought some cleco fasteners and pliers to hold the sheet metal, a rivnut tool, pipe bender and cutter for brake/clutch lines etc etc. The other thing sending me mad is not having all new bolts/nuts in the sizes I want for brackets etc when I need them. Very frustrating having to stop working on something because Im short 1 bolt. I swear i am going to buy a bin board and a zillion bolts so I never end up short again
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Post by SeanW on Aug 16, 2016 19:05:45 GMT
Learning the hard way that having the RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB is key. Figured out today that less than $10 for a few PVC / steel pipe fittings to properly position my control arm into the press would have saved me HOURS of headache and cussing yesterday. Not to mention bending one arm that will cost me much more than $10 to replace. Urg. Oh man...That sucks to hear. I'll have to pick your brain for some advice when it comes time to replace my control arm bushings. (Not going to do that until sometime after I get my car registered.)
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Post by p5curly on Aug 17, 2016 7:06:22 GMT
We just took a blow torch to ours and burnt them out Poly bushed them after
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Post by buildercg on Aug 18, 2016 20:33:10 GMT
Sucks about that control arm.
I contemplated buying a press but ultimately decided to outsource the bushing replacement and I'm glad I did. I've certainly spent a lot of money at HF on tools I didn't think I'd need (welder, punch set, impact wrench, sockets...you name it) and returned quite a few that I later found didn't meet the need or, as with your hoist, weren't manufactured correctly in the first place.
By the way, I went with rubber bushings. Much more expensive than poly but hopefully I'll have a smoother ride as my Exocet is being built primarily for street use.
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Post by phocup on Aug 19, 2016 7:43:46 GMT
Learning the hard way that having the RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB is key. Figured out today that less than $10 for a few PVC / steel pipe fittings to properly position my control arm into the press would have saved me HOURS of headache and cussing yesterday. Not to mention bending one arm that will cost me much more than $10 to replace. Urg. Oh man...That sucks to hear. I'll have to pick your brain for some advice when it comes time to replace my control arm bushings. (Not going to do that until sometime after I get my car registered.) I hear ya, if I had a frame already like you do, I wouldn't be doing this stuff either yet. Currently feel less like i'm building an Exocet, instead its more like I'm doing a full restoration of a Miata.
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Post by phocup on Aug 19, 2016 7:46:16 GMT
We just took a blow torch to ours and burnt them out Poly bushed them after Torching is what I would have done next had the pipe fittings not worked out for me ( or if I didn't already have a press ). Just didn't want my butterfingers dealing with awkward shaped metal at 350 degree.
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Post by phocup on Aug 19, 2016 7:54:36 GMT
Sucks about that control arm. I contemplated buying a press but ultimately decided to outsource the bushing replacement and I'm glad I did. I've certainly spent a lot of money at HF on tools I didn't think I'd need (welder, punch set, impact wrench, sockets...you name it) and returned quite a few that I later found didn't meet the need or, as with your hoist, weren't manufactured correctly in the first place. By the way, I went with rubber bushings. Much more expensive than poly but hopefully I'll have a smoother ride as my Exocet is being built primarily for street use. Yeah, its definitely not a job I want to have to redo any time soon. If you can afford to contract it out for a reasonable rate, definitely do it. For me, I already HAD the press and the videos I watched didn't seem hard. To be honest it wasn't that hard once you figure out a process that works. The replacement arm got here today so here's a picture showing the "bad" method that bent my original arm compared to the "better" method that worked for me to get all of the bushing out without any damage. You can see clearly the initial "bad" method placed all the stress on the arm whereas the latter method clearly supported that specific section of the arm as the bushing came out.
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Post by phocup on Aug 19, 2016 8:03:04 GMT
All the bushing is now out and arms ready for paint or powder .. haven't decided yet. Whichever method, the hub knuckles will get the same treatment. Here's the "before" for both of them. Pretty glad I'm getting this stuff freshened up now. The ball joint on / bearing on there didn't seem like it would have lasted much longer.
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Post by phocup on Aug 24, 2016 15:48:52 GMT
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Post by rumm on Aug 24, 2016 16:20:05 GMT
If #7 is indeed the wheel seal, I used a seal puller to remove mine when I had it apart. I'm not sure why the press wouldn't get it out though, it shouldn't be all that difficult to remove.
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