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Post by phocup on Jul 23, 2016 6:09:47 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 24, 2016 6:25:52 GMT
It looks like the connector that goes to the cruise control module..
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Post by phocup on Jul 25, 2016 5:22:38 GMT
Thanks, that makes sense. I'll keep following the same pattern and trace down the rest of those unconnected plugs.
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Post by phocup on Jul 28, 2016 15:05:11 GMT
The engine hoist is getting here today so I'll be trying to finish removing the body this week / weekend. If I can get that done, I'll be ordering my kit come Monday.
For the US folks, did you guys order direct from Exomotive or Flying Miata ? I'm thinking of going FM so I can get the 5% discount on some of the stuff I'll need eventually ( VMAXX / bushing / tuuuuurbo ? / ect ).
I'm not planning to replace my suspension yet ( until I get it street legal ) so I'm not undoing the center nut on the shock, only the two 'stem' bolts that I think holds the shock to the body. Just wanted to make sure this means I won't have to worry about shock compressor or anything going flying when I take the body off ?
As for the fuel tank, I'm planning to drain it by putting a hose in from the gas cap and suctioning it out. Is there a better way ? Also, do you guys keep the tank bolted to the body and pulling both of them off the PPF together ? I've looked around a little bit but haven't seen any clear instruction for removing the tank but my Haynes is finally arriving tomorrow.
Also, my engine has been sitting without coolant for a few days now, wondering if there's anything to worry about .. like the inside of the engine starting to rust ?
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Post by colin on Jul 28, 2016 16:49:21 GMT
"I'm not undoing the center nut on the shock, only the two 'stem' bolts that I think holds the shock to the body. Just wanted to make sure this means I won't have to worry about shock compressor or anything going flying when I take the body off ?"
Correct.
"As for the fuel tank, I'm planning to drain it by putting a hose in from the gas cap and suctioning it out. Is there a better way ?"
I had not planned ahead very well and had about a half tank of fuel left when I started taking things apart. I hooked up the fuel pump to a 12v battery and a switch I wired up temporarily for the purpose. Then I was able to drain the tank using the already connected fuel lines to a temporary tank and transfer it to my daily driver. Be careful playing with gasoline and electricity. Sparks = not good things happen. Get a friend with a fire extinguisher and keep the tank you're draining into on the ground to avoid static buildup.
"Also, my engine has been sitting without coolant for a few days now, wondering if there's anything to worry about .. like the inside of the engine starting to rust ?"
Dont worry about it. You can spray some rust inhibiter if you're really worried, but mine was left open for a couple months while I did the re-build and I've had no issues.
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Post by phocup on Jul 29, 2016 22:51:19 GMT
Success! I'll be posting up a more detailed update later today but I'm finally ready for lift off!!
I hope to be able to see Colin's race kit this weekend before making my final order decision on Monday but last remaining big question is ..
For the US folks, did you guys order direct from Exomotive or Flying Miata ? I'm thinking of going FM so I can get the 5% discount on some of the stuff I'll need eventually ( VMAXX / bushing / tuuuuurbo ? / ect ).
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 30, 2016 5:06:25 GMT
I would do FM to get the discount.. And you can call for answers to questions..
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Post by phocup on Aug 3, 2016 16:31:31 GMT
Finally have time to do an update.  I got the gas drained from the tank using the suction hand pump. I got some out this way but there is still some gas in the line and at the very bottom where this didn't quite get to. In hind sight, I should have ran all the gas out of the line ( by pulling the yellow fuse ) to stop the pump and letting the car idle until it died. All my hoses seems to be melted onto the car, so you'll notice that I cut my gas lines. Will need to order replacements.  Off to HarborFreight to order a hoist, but my local didn't have any in stock. No problem. Order online, its only $7 extra to ship to your door. I would actually recommend you guys do this as its actually two boxes with one being quite heavy ( took two big fedex guy to carry it ). The $7 is well worth it IMO. Unfortunately, HarborFreight quality means bolts wasn't lining up .. urg ..  No problem! Dremel to the rescue! Unfortunately by the time I got the holes widened enough to put my hoist together, it was too dark to attempt to pull the shell. My plan for the day was foiled. Thanks HarborFreight. Be aware also if you're putting this stand together you'll need a 22mm and a 24mm socket, not commonly included in tool sets, so make sure you have it to save a trip back to the store.  |
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Post by phocup on Aug 3, 2016 16:38:54 GMT
I wasn't able to find much information about how to position jacks ect when doing the actual lift, so hopefully this picture will help someone. I basically had two stands under the front / rear arms as well as 2 stands under the side lift rail. So 8 stands total under the car before I started my lift. I was actually afraid of having to go under the car during the lift, but turns out the bolts are all easily accessible with the wheels off. I soaked the bolts overnight with two applications of Kona Kroil and every single one came off like butter.  Ready for lift off!  I thought I had gone and disconnected everything but inevitably there was things I forgot. Exhaust hanger rubbers, and the front sway bar. I actually didn't notice the front sway was still connected until too late and I think I MIGHT have overstretched the sway. Not sure if we still reuse it on the Exo or not. Will need to do some research and possibly buy another sway if needed. Frame is off ! I actually built a rolling 'skid' for the frame to help move it to the driveway since my work shop was in the back yard. Worked pretty well. I built it 36" wide which allows the frame rails to sit directly on it.  The excitement took over once we realize we're done with the tear down and have the PPF separated.  Feels like an exo already!  |
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Post by phocup on Aug 3, 2016 16:50:31 GMT
Called Keith yesterday to place an order for the sport frame. Its a 4-6 weeks wait now. Hope and dream is to get it done for my bday in mid Oct. I actually signed up for Evolution AutoX School the week before so would be great if I could get the car running for that event. Going to be a tight schedule but fingers crossed!  This T-Handle driver quickly became my go to tool for the disassembly. Very quick way to spin a nut off a long bolt, and you can torque it to break off the rusted / stuck ones too. Great to have in the tool box.  |
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Post by phocup on Aug 3, 2016 17:05:20 GMT
Going to order bushings. I see that many of you used the poly bushing vs rubber in your builds. I think I want poly too due to this being a mostly track / autoX car. Did you guys end up putting the zerk grease fittings in with those ? Or are those unnecessary due to the low weight of the exocet. Notice any harshness ?
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Post by phocup on Aug 3, 2016 21:53:19 GMT
Just went over the car to make a to do list .. wow .. talk about expletive deleted mechanical work. Pretty much every bolt that wasn't easily accessible from under the car was either missing or only half screwed in. Exhaust bolts / ect .. okay not a big deal .. but some TRANSMISSION bolt missing / loose ?  |
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Post by tonyb on Aug 4, 2016 4:57:22 GMT
Very happy for you phocup. Great to hear that it's just a 4-6 week wait. Will be a nice b-day gift for sure. Tight schedule, as you said though... Down in Morgan Hill, and I'll be following your build closely. Enjoy!
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Post by phocup on Aug 7, 2016 23:28:31 GMT
So I wanted to replace all bushing as my donor is well over 150k miles and from the looks of it, the bushings are original and wrecked. Also, I think one of the diff to axle seal is leaking .. so those are coming apart too.  That meant spending the week turning this ..  into this ..  It was NOT without its travails however. First off, listen to gwnwar when he tells you to LOOSEN YOUR HUB BOLTS when you still have brakes. It WILL save you a ton of headaches and cussing later on. Second, rent a slide hammer and get ur hub OFF before you start disassembling the control arms. I didn't do these two things so my week involved a lot of fun fancy cursing in multiple languages .. and I'm still not done. I managed to pull the halfshaft / axles off to put the entire hub / carrier assembly by using a press.  The old bushings came out quite easily with this 3 pronged bearing puller.  However, my hub is still stuck to the carrier. So this is what I rigged up so two guys standing on top of the control arm / wood bar and weigh down the hub carrier while I slide hammer hub off.  Now off to rent a slide hammer so I can stop trolling CL for a Torsen.  |
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Post by phocup on Aug 12, 2016 17:12:47 GMT
Took way too long ( 12-14 hrs in total by my records ) to turn the PPF into this ..  Also took the clutch out to inspect it before painting the tranny. Looks pretty fresh still. All the grooves are still visible. Tranny oil was still honey when I drained it as well as all the missing tranny bolts, so I think maybe it was JUST serviced before it was wrecked. However, there was a clear burning smell right when I opened up the tranny .. so I'm not sure. Would you guys keep this clutch or replace ?
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