East Kilbride Build

[tojeiro]

Hi all, fulfilling a 15 year dream here to build my first kit car. Was very close to some years ago but family and an job overseas had to come first.

Anyway, back in Sunny Scotland and after owning a 2003 MX5 as a weekend toy for the last 2 years I have made the first big step and bought a another donor car after deciding to not to break my original MX5 (thanks again to those that responded to my previous post)

In a fortunate position that I have a double garage (it was a big part the house buying criteria). Spent last summer getting it sorted in preparation.   Wired, Insulated, plasterboarded and even added a ceiling so that I could work in it all year.  



Still fresh in winter but OK once my small oil filled radiator is up to temp and the kettle is boiled.

I haven't placed my order yet as I haven't actually seen the car in the flesh.  Was originally looking at other MX5 based kits until I saw some of the builds on here.  Just need to decide on colour before Stoneleigh and hope to see some of the members there (i'll be the one with the notebook asking a zillion questions)

Meantime hope to keep you entertained with some of my struggles on stripping the donor (not quite as rust free as my other MX5) and any solutions or ideas I come up with along the way.

[john]

Hello and welcome, like the garage space mate looks a good size. The new green (like mine and Cheshire westie have is new and different) but the dark oxford blue is quite special (Preston Paul has one).

Good luck with the strip down and keep us updated, there have been over 80 replicar chassis built but just a few build threads available so the more the merrier.

[tojeiro]

Thanks John, I travel overseas a lot with work so updates likely to be a bit erratic but having learnt so much already from reading others threads I thought the least I could do was try and contribute something.

Negotiated a full day in the garage with my better half and managed to get the loom labelled and out of the shell (underestimated the effort required there!)

Used laserjet heavy duty silver self-adhesive labels with each plug info printed but you can write on them with a permanent marker also.  These are waterproof and even my greasy fingers didn't smudge the ink.  These are totally untearable and will actually have to cut them off when I reinstall the loom.  Could have used masking tape, but cost was low and I still have hundreds left for labeling other parts boxes and stuff.

[R2S]

tojeiro, welcome to the group, no doubt you have read most/all the threads but the main things I have found of value are:-

label absolutely everything when removing electrics
upper dash removal on mk2 is different to mk1, dont waste time looking for fixings in vents (there aren't any) but remove internal windscreen surround to allow dash removal.
Undo all wheel nuts FIRST before anything whilst weight is on car (thanks to gwnwar for that one)
Dont remove ppf unless you really have to (I had months of fun with a recalcitrant ppf/diff bolt)
With hindsight I wouldn't have had chassis powder coated until after initial build (and then break down) allowing any welding (brake brackets etc) to be 'part of' coating
I picked colour on basis of being nearest to paint colour I am using, should have gone for base colour (no cost) as Im changing things on the body which will require full prime anyway.
If you are sticking with gel coat colour its whatever takes your fancy but worth reading up on GRP gel coat fade
When I bought the kit Stuart was keen to point out it could be built in just a few short weeks (but then again he is a bit of a whiz with kits) and I recognise it could but pace your build to suit your own circumstance, think I started about a month after DeBoraH build but am years behind (and just a little envious).
Final point, dont be afraid to ask what sound like stupid questions (if embarrassed can be asked via PM) there is always someone on hand (usually gwnwar or snowbird1 on my build) to add tech advice or other builders to provide advice on the build (expertise) or just moral support from folk in similar position.

[tojeiro]

Shell stripped pretty much bare, all 14 sub-frame to shell nuts & bolts off.  One nut had to be split with my dremel to open the threads even after cleaning the threads completely.  13 others came out fine.  My new 240v impact gun I got last week is proving much more use than my air gun.

Getting hub nuts loose was a similar story.  Fronts and left rear came off fine with just the breaker bar, right rear, oh my god!!

Despite being soaked in penetrating oil for 2 days and the usual pre-shock method with hammer and socket, it went something like this. 3ft Breaker bar (no), breaker bar with me standing on it (no), 450nm impact gun (no), hot torch + breaker bar (no)..... cup of tea time.

Freshly invigorated, hot torch (very hot), 3ft breaker bar with 3ft tube extension plus my 85kg bouncing it finally it cracked loose.

Planning to replace the rear wheel bearings anyway but probably a necessity now after being royally cooked.

Otherwise just the steering column & pedal box to pull plus an earth strap on the PPF and I think we are good for a first attempt at lifting the shell.


Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr

[tojeiro]

Regarding the colour I will probably just go for the standard base as I am planning to get it painted anyway.  Don't have any huge issue with gel coat but I would really like a metallic to bring the shine, especially since use will mainly be on sunny days with metallic finishes really show.

Will for sure go for boot cut out, would like the door option also but not necessity, not keen on the hinge style on the red demo so would only go that route if I could find an internal hinge method that works.

Also need to discuss with Stuart about possibility of a double headrest design.  Even if the 2nd headrest was just supplied as a loose fibreglass piece to be bonded in before paint, would depend on how symmetrical the current piece is, from photos there looks like a slight axial twist to suit the body

Just to be awkward I would also like the vents on top of the rear wings and I remember reading somewhere from Stuart that there was an option to add these to the current moulds.  If not, I would have a go at making these myself and bonding them on.

[R2S]

Vents on top of the rear wings would be fairly straightforward as the wedge that is cut out could be inverted to give the lower face of vent. Have thought about this for my build but decided against in the end.

[tojeiro]

Nothing to exciting but feels like a bit of a milestone finally getting the shell off.

Just need to find someone to take the shell away now as I don't own a trailer or even have a tow hook.

Will cut out the VIN number on the firewall over the weekend before I forget, is that the only identification to be taken from the Shell ?

Sub-frame corrosion not actually too bad, still going to get them short blasted as I can't be bothered with the mess and dust from wire brushing.  Appreciate peoples thoughts on whether to then powder-coat the sub-frames and wishbones or just paint them with some proper chassis paint from Frosts.

Thinking paint since with Replicar the chassis is not on show and more for protection than aesthetics.


Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr

[Deleted]

If you are getting the shell collected you can expect to pay a little, the value of scrap has fallen recently. My first shell got me £65 but the last one was £12. Cost of collection less the scrap value. Usually I am just pleased to get the shell out of the way.

You don't need to keep the vin plate for the new car but some people have found it easier to keep the car on SORN if identity is removed when scrapping although I have never had this issue. DVLA will just ask for the V5 from your donor and the process of registration is easier with a donor on SORN than for a scrapped vehicle.

[Deleted]

Looking good so far by the way, it is a big hurdle when the shell is off the subframes

[john]

Yes good milestone, I had to play £20 to get my shell collected.

[tojeiro]

Hey all, been a while due to work commitments and vacation, however, good news is that I got my order placed today.

Last post was related to getting shot of the shell which resulted in an alternative solution.

Shell disposal

With order now in progress I need to get a shoogle on with my refub.  Went completely back to nuts and bolts, except for one driveshaft which does not want to come out of the rear hub. 

Tried all the usual heat, shock soaking with PB blaster without luck. Bent a very large hub puller so looks like I need to invest in a hydraulic press.  Oddly the other pulled straight of with minimal effort.

Need to get it out so that I can send the hubs with the wishbones for bead blasting. Also plan to change the bearings and hub seals while they are off.

Otherwise Deox-C and Hydrate 80 are proving to be as good as reported, blown away by the power of these two.

Overseas again this week on business but will push on when I get back.

[Deleted]

I have a hydraulic hub puller if you can collect it. I am in Cheshire. It will either break the hub free or split the driveshaft down the middle, it has serious power.

[tojeiro]

Cheers for the offer, but I figure that it's a worthwhile investment since I am going to change all bushes and wheel bearing while the suspension is in bits and reckon it might also be useful for bending up brackets, etc.

[tojeiro]

Received my official order form from Stuart.  Definitely going for light grey powder coating on chassis frame but shell colour has proven to be a major dilemma.

Was never going to replica look so i reckon why not go for the full on modern version.  Planning to keep the car for an extended period so figure if I change my mind later I can always paint it AM metallic and stick some nice wires on.

Thinking something along the lines below with dark red interior and turned aluminium dash.