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Post by martinw on Mar 21, 2015 11:38:27 GMT
....schoolboy error I'm afraid . It's vital to get a "final and complete list of other jobs that must be done before the car" BEFORE you start any work. You could try doing the decorating really badly to get yourself off the hook? Martin
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 21, 2015 11:41:46 GMT
Like the idea but that would annoy me. I could pay for someone to do it but we all now the funds would come from the build anyway!
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Post by johnp on Mar 21, 2015 17:29:46 GMT
Explain to her that you did not mean water-based domestic paints but specialised automotive types.
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 21, 2015 18:17:34 GMT
Too late, hall stairs and landing, filled sanded washed and prepped for painting tomorrow... Did give engine 1st go with gunk. Trying to leave all manifolds/gaskets in place as it was running fine before, have spare engine if need to take up at a later stage to upgrade etc...
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 17, 2015 13:16:24 GMT
Right - buying the floor time.
Do I go for a complete flat floor, inc engine bay? Or leave engine bay open?
Comments please!
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Post by BobN on Apr 17, 2015 15:32:05 GMT
My engine bay is open like most. I know some have it closed but I thought more air to the engine might aid cooling.
Bob
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Post by daydreamer on Apr 17, 2015 17:21:46 GMT
I think open is better, you'll need air circulation to keep temperatures down. The bottom of the exhaust and gearbox bell housing will probably interfere with the floor, Servicing and checking for loose fitments , frequent activities on a kit car, will be made harder.
If you do fit a floor in the engine bay, I suggest making it a separate panel to the main cabin floor. The same for the front. section.
I have fitted a floor to the front section and that is worth it as it stops water coming through under the bonnet but over the bulkhead just under the dash.
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 17, 2015 17:33:00 GMT
Thanks, that's decided then. Yes I was going to do separate front, and thinking about rear, sections. Did you do interior panels? Do they go front to rear bulkheads?
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 17, 2015 17:34:00 GMT
Also do you know the length for the front section please? Grill to rear of front bulkhead cross member?
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Post by martinw on Apr 17, 2015 22:16:12 GMT
Interior panels - yes, front to rear bulkheads. Mine are internal to the chassis from rear bulkhead up to dashboard, and then external to chassis from there to front bulkhead (if that makes sense...!). I thought it would restrict room around the accelerator pedal if I paneled inside right to the front. I think it looks good too . Martin
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 17, 2015 22:17:10 GMT
Thanks going to do something similar.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 17, 2015 22:29:07 GMT
Also do you know the length for the front section please? Grill to rear of front bulkhead cross member? Assuming you are using aluminium you will end up being driven by the sheet size at, more than likely, 2.4m x 1.2m then marked and cut on the job.
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 18, 2015 5:05:23 GMT
Doing alupanel 3mm composite, but trying to work out if I can get away with 2 sheets or if I need 3...
Sent from my GT-I8190N using proboards
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 18, 2015 8:23:57 GMT
It is useful to use the sides as ducting for extra air flow from the front. You will see that we shaped the sides so that they kick in just behind the rear bulkhead, thus directing any air collected from grilles cut in at the front behind the front tyres. 1.5mm alloy sheet is strong enough and light. You can buy 2x1m sheets of 8x4's, we have it with a protection layer one side only, should cost less than £40 per 2.4x1.2
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Post by daydreamer on Apr 20, 2015 18:51:54 GMT
Grill to front member of chassis is 32cm. That's from the forward face on the foremost lower chassis member to the foremost exterior of the bottom of the front grill. Does that make sense ?
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