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Post by anglais on Feb 19, 2011 19:58:39 GMT
Need the paint code of that red to mathc the air box and rear mudguard!! anyone know
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2011 13:31:17 GMT
well progress has been slow but having to do boring jobs like buy the right size bolts also my other car obsesion VW's has taken many ebay hours. Must have bought and sent back every size and shape brake parts there are! should have gone for copper and not use ebay. started to build up the brakes, sure its wrong. also mounted the radiator on the front just attached at the bottom by my new rivnut gun. will attach the top with a straight bar when the pipes are in. ford focus mark one steering wheel and boss, looks better than the photo. Gear shifter adapted to just go forwards and backwards, plus gear changer cable nose cone hole cut, (that stuff is evil) took all afternoon to do, there must be an easy way but i didnt find it. Mesh to go behind it has been painted black next jobs fitting the twin tanks (note should have drilled the holes for this while riviting the chasis unless you are fortunate enougth to have a ramp) going to do two rivnuts and one bolt all the way through. Need advice on Fitting the seats, how , if i buy adjusters will it be easier to fit! Waiting on a couple of parts from RTR then will do a full mock up of what its going to look like, and get it out in the sun ! Are the master cylinders Metric or Imperial?, I take it there are not mounts for the radiator on the chassis?, I don't see it as a major issue, just expected those mounts to be part of the processes of making the chassis? Looks good so far mate, how many hours are you in so far? Cheers Nick
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Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2011 13:52:18 GMT
When I built my MNR, there were no provisions for mounting sliders, so I welded mounting bars across the frame, there idea initially (Since changed) was to mount the seats to the floor, which I found to be rather silly, I think the TR1KE has parrellel mounted bars for the seats anyway, I would personally fit sliders, as you may change how you sit in it and it may not be comfy with it fixed in one place, defo for you as the driver, not as important for the passenger. Because this is an EXO skeleton frame, I cannot see any issue at all as you can easily get to the back of the seats through access down the side of the frame. Fit the sliders to the seats, then sliding the slider all the way forward, fit the bolts in the rear through the bars, then slide back and do the front bolts. I fitted nut protectors underneath as the IVA inspector doesn't want a gouge in his head Unfortunatley my car died on the rolling road, having never got to the IVA test booked
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Post by anglais on Feb 20, 2011 16:45:06 GMT
The brakes were 3/8unf but there not part of the kit! no brackets for the radiator but like you said not much a a problem also in theory you can keep directly onto the bike but i dont think that the best option the bulk head will seriously reduce air flow. The seats i am struglling with , unless like your old kit im meant to attach them to the floor and not the chasis (thought about doing that but surely its needs a strong fixing), i think the chasis frame sits too far back to directly attach the seats! Not sure how the demo sorts this, Sure RTR will post the solution .
Do you just screw the seats onto the sliders??which ones are best?
Cheers
ps know of any strong bonding glue to fix the wings and the mesh onto the nose cone
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Feb 20, 2011 19:14:57 GMT
Maybe use a epoxy-resin? That 2 component stuff... But that may become a little too hard (and and therefor brittle and breakable) I think the black kit which they use to glue car windows with is great. In our racing team we use it if we have to repair things that are too damaged to repair, but just must be repaired. Its just unbelievably strong, a little flexible and sticks to everything too.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2011 11:37:07 GMT
I know the calipers are not included, but as far as I was aware the brake master cylinders are included in the kit aren't they?
I mounted my seats onto Cobra Seat Runners, If the bars for mounting seats are way to far back, it might be worth mounting some more bars across the frame further forward, I know my sliders didnt slide very far at all. The seats I will use will be Cobra seats in leatherette material.
Most guys in the UK are using Sikaflex to bond mudguards in place, and also for the grill too.
I made wood blocks on my MNR Nosecone, but it was a different looking nose to this one, I reckon some sort of f;exi silicone sealer might be ok, I use some tuff from Screwfix on my caravan called THE WORKS, its in a selection of colours and once set is flexible and very very strong.
Its about £7 per tube that fits in a caulking gun.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2011 11:44:20 GMT
Do you just screw the seats onto the sliders??which ones are best? Yes I screwed mine directly onto the sliders, turning the seat upside down I fitted the sliders direct to the base. Make sure you mark up on the bars for the holes first, drill and make sure the slider fits nicely on the bars before fitting them to the seats, I used 6mm Allen head bolts as making a normal bolt fit means finding one with a 15mm size head to fit in the Cobra sliders that doesnt turn when putting the nut on. Not sure I took any useful pics of my seats, but if I did, they might be on my photobucket page here: s783.photobucket.com/albums/yy112/plazmanian/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ20 I will look back through my main build pics, and email you anything that can help. Cheers Nick
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Post by roadtrackrace on Feb 21, 2011 11:49:37 GMT
Hi Nick,
yes, the brake master cylinders and the pedals are included in the kit.
Next delivery date is now 25th of April without powdercoating and 2nd of May with powdercoating as the orders keep coming in...
RTR
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Post by anglais on Feb 22, 2011 13:49:46 GMT
Cheers nick very helpfull
RTR how did you do your seats please? any new on my parts!
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Post by anglais on Feb 26, 2011 17:19:49 GMT
bulk head fitted starting to fit the nose cone , not sure if im meant to cut of the bits at the bottom, it seems to be resting on the frame and cant fit it with them underneath! perhaps a two person job exup thing back on, front sprocket on, gear changer fitted and seems to work but the cable has to be strapped down. Parts ordered, harnesses, pipe work for the radioator (that was exspensive) speedo healer, Sikaflex to bond stuff! some more brake parts. Good section on the technical bit on the seats, but allot more work than i thought plus might need to weld another bar, which (A) i cant do and (B) dont have the equipment! Does all the wiring run down the centre colum, its going to be snug in there, wont the radiator pipes melt it! where to put the battery! Anyone havea diagram of the radiaotr pipes there allot more than I remmebr taken off
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Feb 27, 2011 20:35:58 GMT
Try to insulate the pipes... They will become hot indeed. And an insulation-sleeve for the wiring doesn't do harm. It will not melt at those temperatures, but I guess ik will harden out quickly.
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Post by anglais on Feb 28, 2011 19:17:52 GMT
Cheers sounds like a plan, was thinking of putting the pipes at the bottom then create a shelf for the wires to run down! Starting on the electrics next week so should be fun!
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 28, 2011 20:53:25 GMT
The wiring will be a challenge.... Not much of the cables will fit. I am considering to place as much electronics high up at the passengers leg compartment. That is much better than the bulkhead as the RTR demo car has. There are plenty service manuals on the internet, including wiring diagrams.
My common sense tells me making a separate duct is easier and cheaper than using wiring that can resist higher temperatures.
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Post by anglais on Feb 28, 2011 21:10:41 GMT
Thats an interesting idea never thought of that. Was thinking of using some form of seperate duct (pipe) to carry the wires from the back through to the front Got a wiring diagram and also a bit of help so will see how we go! matter of giving it a go !
Have you got pics of the demo's electrics???
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vtR1k
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Post by vtR1k on Feb 28, 2011 21:31:42 GMT
There should be enough to find on the net. But you shouldn't worry too much about the temperature of the coolant, it will not exeed approx. 120 deg C. At those temps the wiring will certainly not melt...
Just an idea for the wiring: for the c oc kpit signals (15 pins) I used a scart-cable. It has enough wires inside (21) and a shielding to eliminate EMC. It saves a lot of space in the duct!
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