Ryan's Exocet Build

[exoRy]

Wow, this forum moves fast - page 4

Been hard at it the last few weekends - was mainly cleaning/painting bolts - got into the mindset of not wanting to put grubby bolts on to the nice clean/painted engine and all - so that has taken up quite a few hours.

Got most cleaned and now the "build" looks like this:

Got most of it bolted up, found out that I had purchased the wrong belt (for the alternator - think it might be a power steering pump belt), so will have to order the correct one.

Everything is going together quite nicely. Got the flywheel and clutch all aligned and attached.

Also got the diff bolted to the rear-subframe with the new bushes, so hopefully will get the ppf/gearbox all connected too.

I think a couple more weekends to go before I can roll it around.

[jgilbert]

Ryan, looking very clean. Easier to clean now than try to clean once all built up.

Its worth cutting 4 supports (either wood or some spare steel tubing) to support the wishbones against the subframe so you can move the PPF about without the suspension collapsing. Using the bottom shock mount is an easy option, just drill your supports so you can bolt through the mounts. Supports are about 200mm long from memory.

[exoRy]

Thanks @jgilbert once I've got the rear built up I'll lift it and put the supports in that I used when I first took off the frame - hopefully they're lying around this garage somewhere!

[exoRy]

Quick question - just building up the rear subframe. I've got my labelled bolts and nuts out for the upper rear wishbone arms to subframe, the manual says there should be some spring washers but I haven't got any. Just wondering if others have them on their arms?? If so how many for each bolt?

[exoRy]

Been hard at it the past few weeks (when i can find time - various weekends away have been taking most of it!)

I've lost one of the power steering adapters (which fit directly onto the steering rack, I'm looking at getting a quote for a custom loop (to see if it might be cheaper than de-powering the rack).
The company want the adapter size.

I've measured the circumference and its about 50mm - which should mean the bolt diameter is ~16mm.
Does this sound right??

[mawdo81]

I'd get a pair of calipers you can get them on eBay for £10 or less. Takes the guess work out.

[dietcoke]

Depowering the rack is free, how could that be cheaper? Just cut/break the steel hoses where they go into the rack and put a glob of silicone RTV over the holes. Once the internal seal is out of the rack, there is zero pressure being made - so nothing has to hold any pressure, just keep dust out, really.

Jun 26, 2015 7:51:09 GMT exoRy said:

Been hard at it the past few weeks (when i can find time - various weekends away have been taking most of it!)

I've lost one of the power steering adapters (which fit directly onto the steering rack, I'm looking at getting a quote for a custom loop (to see if it might be cheaper than de-powering the rack).
The company want the adapter size.

I've measured the circumference and its about 50mm - which should mean the bolt diameter is ~16mm.
Does this sound right??

[mawdo81]

Should weld up the shaft though to remove the slop

Sent from my GT-I8190N using proboards

[exoRy]

dietcoke - thanks, didn't know about this. I will give this a research on the web and see what it involves!
Might be a job i can get done tonight!

mawdo81 - I don't have access to a welder.
I'm not sure I know what you mean when you say the "slop"?? Does the feel of the steering suffer if the shaft is not welded??

[dietcoke]

www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php

[mawdo81]

Power steering works by twisting the shaft, opening up a valve so the high pressure side fills with fluid, actuating the rack and therefore getting the valve closed again. If you don't have PS then there will be some slop between twisting the steering wheel (opening the remaining valve) and the rack moving. Then when turning back the other way you have to close the valve on one side, go through the neutral spot and open it on the other.

Plenty don't find this an issue and just close up or loop the tubes.

Personal choice I guess.

[scareyourpassenger]

the motoIQ instructions cover the other style steering rack and cover the welding process. www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1709/Project-Miatabusa-Part-5--De-Powering-the-Steering-Rack.aspx

[exoRy]

Hi all,

build still going along, gearbox is now mated to the engine.

Just going through some of the parts and it seems the following part slipped the "labelling" net and I've got no idea what it is.

Answers on a postcard please??!?!?

[gwnwar]

Don't remember seeing something like that.. only thing I can think of with 2 holes and a slider hole
is the PPF were the 2 bolts go up.. What size is it and size of holes.. with the rust looks like it was
underside of car.. Are you sure it is from the MX5..

[exoRy]

gwnwar - I don't remember it being near the PPF - maybe the powersteering pump/bracket fixture?

been relatively busy these past few weeks - progress has not stopped....

turned out I couldn't loop the steering rack pipes (as I thought I'd lost one of the fittings), so went with the suggestions to do it "properly".

Had a look at the flyin' miata instructions and they did not match my rack. Instead the instructions here matched my rack perfectly
www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1709/Project-Miatabusa-Part-5--De-Powering-the-Steering-Rack.aspx

unfortunately this meant taking a pipewrench to the big nut on the front of the steering rack - and damaging my painted rack :S

started off with this



removed all parts as per the guide and got



got the inner rack pressed out by a garage when I got my daily driver serviced.

took it back home and got the metal collar off



made 2 cuts with a small saw (without damaging the rack) then used a screwdriver and hammer to pop the rest off once it was weakened.

took the steering pinion



and got that welded (£20), not the tidiest weld in the world, but will reduce "slop" and give more direct steering feel



heavily greased all the insides and put it back together



I went over the left side with a wire wheel as the por-15 coat got chipped as I took it apart. Have run out of por-15 so will go over in silver hammerite

When disassembling the inner tie rods were in a bad way. One was not OEM so it must have been replaced before and wasn't holding at all, the ball joint was very loose and it couldn't hold itself up against gravity (must have been a cheap replacement), the other was rock solid.
Have ordered 2 new ones direct from ILmotorsports in Germany for £30 (delivered) - checked on MX5 parts and they only have the OEM power steering ones in - am not paying £60 each, excluding delivery!!!

Had a clear out of the garage too..



With the new found space, decided to get the front and rear connected



Still waiting on a few replacement nuts for the rear-end, so I can be all finished.

Will wait on the inner tie rods for the front before building that up fully and getting the roller skate rolling!

I also rebuit the gear stick mechanism, new nylon cup, gaiters (as the originals were ruined) and refilled the turret.

When clearing out the garage I also gave the radiator a quick brush (lots of bits of trees/hedges caught in it). When brushing, the fins started falling out and the whole radiator just looked a bit corroded and tired.

So bought a new one from ILMotorsport (when getting the inner tie rods), this enabled a 10% discount and got the 27mm core radiator delivered for £65 - the equivalent ones on MX5 parts were a lot more expensive (they sell a lot of ILMotorsport products)

Also got my Gaz Gold Pro's delivered



looking forward to getting these fitted.

removed the top-hats from the old suspension units, gave them a going over with the wire wheel and am in the middle of sticking a few coats of hammerite hammered silver on them - they were a little rusted so a bit of protection is welcomed.

Not sure how this might look with an Orange and Black colour scheme - however if it looks awful i'll go over them with some black paint.

Will be finishing off some more painting tomorrow and will have to think about giving Mr Mills a call