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Post by jgilbert on Mar 1, 2015 13:21:58 GMT
I can see you have your Chassis. If you use the PPF to mount your brake/fuel lines, make sure you position the chassis on the rolling PPF to check clearances. It is tight at the back where the PPF ends. Check twice cut once etc.
Good luck.
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 8, 2015 20:25:12 GMT
Well today was a good day :-) I put the Gaz suspension together with the top hats, started the overhaul of the brake calipers and finished of the steering rack. I fitted the the rack and suspension then decided to have a go at fitting the MEV chassis, it was a little tricky on my own but I usedd the engine hoist and it made life a lot easier. As I droped it down I seen that it was way out of lone with every hole but with a bit of movement of jacks and axel stands it all came together. The only holes I can't get to line up at the moment are these. I have also also seen lots of builds have trouble with the tab on the rear not lining up to the rear subframe, I have not even got a tab on my chassis so not sure if this is normal? The only rear mounting is the 4 long bolts through to the top of the rear sub frame. I also found that that the new shock was very close to the arm.p, this will be ok once I pull the MeV chassis over a little to the right as it will move the top mount and correct the angle.
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Post by R2S on Mar 8, 2015 22:10:42 GMT
Having read all the MX5 threads on the site the shocks being close to the upper arms is not unusual but you probably already are aware,
Any chance of a pic of the top of the struts? For the first time since beginning of Nov I plan a day in the workshop tomorrow and one of the jobs on the list is to build up the Gaz gold Pros.
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 8, 2015 22:25:25 GMT
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Post by R2S on Mar 9, 2015 7:14:12 GMT
brilliant, thanks.
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 15, 2015 20:45:47 GMT
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 17, 2015 4:49:23 GMT
Small clip goes on the pad with the flat end to rotor side of pad.. When pads wear down end ready for replacement the clip will rub the rotor and start to squeal when brakes are used....
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 17, 2015 18:59:53 GMT
Ann I see, makes sense. Well at least I put it in the correct place.
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 24, 2015 22:43:25 GMT
Right I need some help, does anyone know how much space we have at the back of the chassis where the rear subframe is? The reason I ask is I have just started running the lines for the brakes and had to put the splitter near the middle so both side would reach, do you think there is enough clear ce for what I have ?
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Post by jgilbert on Mar 26, 2015 17:53:27 GMT
I will try to dig out some photos of mine. cant you lift you chassis on and align it to be absolutely sure. Space is tight there.
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Post by donboy1983 on Mar 26, 2015 20:02:31 GMT
Yeah I think I will put in on to check, just need to get another pair of hands as its a bit tricky using the hoist to lift it on and off. I had aloof on your build and seen the pics of how you mounted yours. Hopefully it will be ok but if not I will move it a little.
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Post by miket on Mar 27, 2015 9:04:37 GMT
If it helps; on my NA there's 30mm distance from the front edge of the subframe's 'seam' to the back face of the inner uprights at the rear of the chassis. The uprights are 20mm so with there's nominally 50mm from the seam if you don't coincide with those inner uprights passing by.
The top of the rear of the tranny tunnel is almost exactly level with the subframe seam.
+1 for jgilbert; space is very tight there - the gap between the top of the ppf at that slight kink and the tranny tunnel side next to it is almost nil - widening towards to bottom of the ppf as the tunnel slopes away from it. Electrics often pass thru this area too but you might have other plans.
Good luck.
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Post by jgilbert on Mar 27, 2015 11:07:22 GMT
Ok, the only photos I could find was these two, not ideally, but as you can see the space is very tight. Strongly advise you trial fit and then make sure you can get to the unions in the future it you need to. Looking at the photos its the small box section that limits space. Hope this helps.
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Post by donboy1983 on Jun 2, 2015 21:09:59 GMT
It's been a while but getting back into the build, I started the task of fitting he trans tunnel and firewall panels. to start with I thought the tunnel was to short but it was just the position I had it in. I lined up the thin end near the shifter so that there was no gap between the trans cover and the fixed cover that is part of the chassis. I then cut the fire wall panels to suit the shape of the tunnel, I used the excess overhang from the trans tunnel and folded it 90 degrees to overlap the joints to stop water getting in, the top part of the firewall still needs to be done but I have made a template out of cardboard until I get my hands on some more Ali sheet.
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Post by donboy1983 on Jul 26, 2015 17:52:11 GMT
Been a while so thought I would do a little update, I have been busy getting married and with holidays so been doing a little bit but nothing major so I decided to take 3 days off and just work on the car :-) I managed to finish rebuilding the rear calipers, fit the new wheels and spacers. Then it was time to fit the floor panels and mount the frame to the PPF. All went well and lined up apart from the Gaz shocks, one was sitting very close to the drivers side upper wishbone, this was down to the exocet frame sitting further to one side so I loosened the bolts and put a ratchet strap around the frame and the driver side wheel and tightened it so I pulled the exocet frame over to the driver side. This done the trick and gave me a good clearance on the shock on each side. Once this his was sorted I started to mount the rear flexi brake lines, can anyone tell me if what I have done is suitable? I was unsure if the way I had bent it would cause an issue.
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