|
|
Post by casesensitive on Jun 23, 2017 13:04:11 GMT
Sounds like we're in a similar boat; I'm using the newest variant of Steve Edwards' map too; he was struggling with his idle, and VVT, he's PM'd the latest tune ME did (this week) to a few people on facebook.
I'm struggling to get it started without being on the throttle, got some work to do yet.
|
|
|
|
Post by carlostheoptimistic on Jun 24, 2017 11:48:47 GMT
I'm now running some maps off the ME google drive named 'ME221 V2FW - ST170 Bike ITBs, ST Injectors 160bhp' which I have adjusted slightly to suit my set up. However, I think I have over egged the injector size I've fitted, they are 410cc @ 3bar and it seem to be running rich. I've got some standard Hayabusa injectors too which I think are 280cc @3bar, so I could fit those and see if it runs better. It might be easier to tune with the standard injectors too as the increments of adjustment will be finer. I also have to give it a bit of throttle when starting but I think that is expected if like me you haven't got an idle control valve to adjust the air flow, I could be wrong though, its something I'm going to look at once its tuned better.
|
|
|
|
Post by carlostheoptimistic on Jul 11, 2017 16:42:11 GMT
So my wideband O2 sensor kit came and has now been fitted. While I had the seats out, fuel tank cover off and centre tunnel off I also adjusted the drivers seat position as I've not been happy with it for a while. I also fitted a USB socket for the ECU on the centre tunnel behind the drivers seat, so all the wiring is tidied up now. I also found something when I took the fuel tank cover off, the return fuel line was being squashed by the edge of the fuel tank cover. I had not opened up the slot I had cut in it originally when there was no return line. This got me thinking, if the return line was being squashed to the extend that it was restricting the flow then was I getting too much fuel pressure in the fuel rail and this was causing it to over fuel? I did set the fuel pressure when I first fitted the new fuel system but I don't think the fuel tank cover was on so this is a possibility. Now that that is sorted the car does seem to start better and run better, although I went to it on Sunday and it wouldn't start! I have been turning it on quiet a bit and messing with the ECU and wideband kit so the battery was a bit low so it could have been that. A couple of hours with the battery on charge and another try go it started so maybe.
Something that I haven't done is balance the throttle bodies properly, I did it by eye for WOT and checked that all the butterflies seat closed at the same point but I feel I need to do them properly. Does anyone know if these £50 sets of 4 vacuum gauge carburettor balancing kits on Ebay are any good? The other thing is how far open should the butterflies be when the throttle is released i.e. not being pressed? at the moment there is only a very small gap from them being fully closed, any advice on that would be a help.
The PLX devices wideband O2 kit is great, I've got it wired into the ECU and it will now do LTT adjustments. You can the ECU to do this automatically or you can do this by getting the ECU to monitor the O2 sensor and then calculating a trim adjustment table, you can them look at the adjustments it want to make and decide if you want to apply them or not. I had a little play with it but have not used it properly yet.
All in all it is running well but I need more time in the garage and on the road!
|
|
|
|
Post by casesensitive on Jul 12, 2017 11:32:53 GMT
This got me thinking, if the return line was being squashed to the extend that it was restricting the flow then was I getting too much fuel pressure in the fuel rail and this was causing it to over fuel? I did set the fuel pressure when I first fitted the new fuel system but I don't think the fuel tank cover was on so this is a possibility. Now that that is sorted the car does seem to start better and run better, The Focus 2.0 fuel pressure reg that I have is a 380kpa one, which is 3.8bar, and not 3 as seems to be the 'standard', so it might be worth confirming fuel pressure. My 2.0 rail has a hand schrader (bike) valve on it to test pressure, you 'just' need a fuel proof gauge. Something that I haven't done is balance the throttle bodies properly, I did it by eye for WOT and checked that all the butterflies seat closed at the same point but I feel I need to do them properly. Does anyone know if these £50 sets of 4 vacuum gauge carburettor balancing kits on Ebay are any good? I just bought a CarbTune Pro vacuum gauge, went halvers with a friend (former boss actually) who's building a cafe racer bike. I've set up the restrictors, but haven't got round to balancing it yet (there are a few other parts i'm not happy with to sort first). Maybe find someone local and split it? They're €80, but when we're done we'll sell it for €60-65 (I lost out on a few auctions at €60+) for second hand ones, so the cost each is very low over a year or so. The other thing is how far open should the butterflies be when the throttle is released i.e. not being pressed? at the moment there is only a very small gap from them being fully closed, any advice on that would be a help. If you had idle control then they should be completely closed, see my MKI-eyeball balancing attempt below. Because we don't have idle, we need it to be a bit open so the engine doesn't conk out. I have made a prototype of a super-primative cable adjuster, the real one will be made of thicker steel and have the bloody hole tapped in the correct direction. This way, you get the car started with some throttle pedal, and then adjust the adjuster until you have just enough air to keep you at 900rpm or whatever idle you want. This is my plan anyway, I could be totally wrong, don't mind the 'Expert' level, I got that by asking 1000 stupid questions...  [/quote] The PLX devices wideband O2 kit is great, I've got it wired into the ECU and it will now do LTT adjustments. You can the ECU to do this automatically or you can do this by getting the ECU to monitor the O2 sensor and then calculating a trim adjustment table, you can them look at the adjustments it want to make and decide if you want to apply them or not. I had a little play with it but have not used it properly yet. I'm holding out for the Motorsport Electronics one; it'll hook in nicely with no variance between the gauge and ECU, hopefully. I expect to run very rich between now and then, I'm ascertaining AFR by s melling the exhaust. |
|
|
|
Post by carlostheoptimistic on Jul 13, 2017 21:12:28 GMT
Yeah I have a fuel pressure gauge that screws into the side of the regulator but you are advised not to run with it fitted all the time so I had removed it. I have now checked and reset the fuel pressure to 3 bar and its nice and steady.
Over the last couple of days I have balanced the throttle bodies, at first I did it with a 0.25mm feeler gauge under the bottom most part of the butterflies. And today I borrowed a set of 4 vacuum gauges from a chap at work and checked them with that, they were almost cock on so the feeler gauge method is pretty good, they only needed a bit of adjustment. I must say that the car starts so much better now the throttle bodies are balanced. It still doesn't idle very well though, its either idling at 1500 to 2000rpm or dying? That's just with adjusting the throttle stop screw so I think I need to look at the fueling and timing to get it idling better.
|
|
|
|
Post by mawdo81 on Jul 14, 2017 5:46:55 GMT
Is your vacuum ok? I had idle trouble until I remembered to block up the vacuum take off for the servo that's no longer connected.
|
|
|
|
Post by casesensitive on Jul 14, 2017 12:49:20 GMT
Is your vacuum ok? I had idle trouble until I remembered to block up the vacuum take off for the servo that's no longer connected. Hmmm, food for thought, my ITB vac lines are all tee'd together, but the merged vac line is open (it'll go to either the FPR or catch can or both later), might try blocking it to see what effect it has. |
|
|
|
Post by carlostheoptimistic on Aug 19, 2018 16:52:32 GMT
Well I've not updated this build diary for a while but I've still been tinkering with and driving the Rocket as much as I can. Since last year I have had the Rocket over to DanST Engineering for a tune on the rolling road and it starts, idles and drives awesomely! When the Rocket was on the rolling road we had trouble getting the power out of it at the top end, this was diagnosed to the mid section of the exhaust being restrictive. So I have now built a new mid and rear section for the exhaust with a high flow sports Cat and new end cans.
I need some nice new clamps, one is a bit dis-coloured as you can see.
Although I still love driving the Rocket and it is going the best it ever has, I have decided that it is time for us to part ways. I've got some busy times coming up as my wife has just opened a new business and I start a new job tomorrow which will involve more travel. I will be taking a load of photos and putting an Ad in the for sale section soon. |
|
