Post by R2S on Jul 31, 2022 10:34:14 GMT
Success was short-lived for two reasons:-
1. any issues with MX5 dash pod in future, blown bulbs etc, would require complete dash removal
2. and the critical one, MX5 unit has to stand back from dash face to clear centre of dials, when I tried to move unit back it fouled the dash top.
Thought about cutting the dash bubble and raising but realised I'd still have problem 1. above. Decided to have a front plate which when removed would allow MX5 unit to be drawn through dash so here's where I've got to.
Fully dimensioned up cover plate
GRP dash opened up, square hole to left is for the MX5 donor fog light switch
Dials positioned prior to drilling holes in cover plate, I used riv nuts melted into the plastic housing (if you use them as designed and plastic will crack).
In order to use the MX5 dash and avoid 'modern' appearance I've chosen to use the usual kit round dash light lenses. To do this and keep the ign and brake lights central I had to remove the partition in the MX5 unit (I don't have abs, I removed it so only left hand lights used in my build)
Next job was to cut the plastic covers over the donor dash lights (indicators, ing, brake) to avoid light wash due to dash being set back.
Used plastic spacers to set dials back far enough
Trial cover plate to check alignment and hole dimensions, despite lights being listed as 12mm holes needed are 13mm but in my haste I drilled 14mm (good job it was only test piece), Everything else lined up perfect.
Final job was to check my logic/work that dial unit could be removed with dash in place, success.
Next job is to cut out the cover plate (at moment its just a square sheet of 3mm) then cut the perspex again 3mm, before fitting to GRP dash. Decision time, black crinkle finish, polished aluminium or machined ali, I'm swayed towards the former crinkle paint finish.
1. any issues with MX5 dash pod in future, blown bulbs etc, would require complete dash removal
2. and the critical one, MX5 unit has to stand back from dash face to clear centre of dials, when I tried to move unit back it fouled the dash top.
Thought about cutting the dash bubble and raising but realised I'd still have problem 1. above. Decided to have a front plate which when removed would allow MX5 unit to be drawn through dash so here's where I've got to.
Fully dimensioned up cover plate
GRP dash opened up, square hole to left is for the MX5 donor fog light switch
Dials positioned prior to drilling holes in cover plate, I used riv nuts melted into the plastic housing (if you use them as designed and plastic will crack).
In order to use the MX5 dash and avoid 'modern' appearance I've chosen to use the usual kit round dash light lenses. To do this and keep the ign and brake lights central I had to remove the partition in the MX5 unit (I don't have abs, I removed it so only left hand lights used in my build)
Next job was to cut the plastic covers over the donor dash lights (indicators, ing, brake) to avoid light wash due to dash being set back.
Used plastic spacers to set dials back far enough
Trial cover plate to check alignment and hole dimensions, despite lights being listed as 12mm holes needed are 13mm but in my haste I drilled 14mm (good job it was only test piece), Everything else lined up perfect.
Final job was to check my logic/work that dial unit could be removed with dash in place, success.
Next job is to cut out the cover plate (at moment its just a square sheet of 3mm) then cut the perspex again 3mm, before fitting to GRP dash. Decision time, black crinkle finish, polished aluminium or machined ali, I'm swayed towards the former crinkle paint finish.