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Post by gwnwar on Nov 18, 2013 5:40:58 GMT
If you have the pitmen side of the rack secured in its place it looks like you have the left boot to far up on the body of the rack.. move boot outward so that there is about an 1 1/4" between it and were the bracket secures the rack.. Slide bushing outward and secure.. boot really looks starched a lot of the rack is centered.. Once installed center the rack, same number of turns left/right from center then center the wheel on the shaft..
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Post by biggunz on Nov 18, 2013 8:13:14 GMT
So are the bushings on the rack supposed to slide up and down? Because I thought they were fixed. Which may be where I'm going wrong
Shaun
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 18, 2013 21:16:38 GMT
With the rack secured on the right side (pitmen side) slide the rubber bushing for the left mount outward to line up with the mounting holes and secure.. The rubber boot for the tie rod should be about 1 1/4" from the outward side of the left mount. If needed undo the clamp and slide boot outward and resecure it..
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Post by biggunz on Nov 18, 2013 21:32:37 GMT
Ok cheers I'll give that a try
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Post by biggunz on Nov 19, 2013 18:03:38 GMT
New bolts for the rear lower hubs came today so got those fitted this evening  I'm happy with the look of it! Also fitted the driver side side panel I'm thinking of trying to save some weight with some light weight wheels, anyone have any suggestions? Shaun |
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Post by biggunz on Nov 19, 2013 18:19:56 GMT
Also got my first (early) Xmas present from the mrs!  Apparently I'm not allowed it until Christmas!  |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2013 19:50:58 GMT
New bolts for the rear lower hubs came today so got those fitted this evening I'm happy with the look of it! Also fitted the driver side side panel I'm thinking of trying to save some weight with some light weight wheels, anyone have any suggestions? Shaun Team Dynamics with ET15 |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 20, 2013 6:23:00 GMT
You best do right by the Mrs now..
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Post by biggunz on Nov 20, 2013 8:16:50 GMT
You best do right by the Mrs now.. Yeah I'll need to keep myself in her good books now! |
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Post by biggunz on Nov 21, 2013 8:16:24 GMT
   I mentioned these in another thread £5 on eBay so well chuffed! Not sure whether the indicators will meet IVA regs so will wait until nose is fitted and take measurements. They are E marked just need a £25 module to control turning off with headlights and indicators. Shaun |
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Post by tlight on Nov 21, 2013 8:56:48 GMT
Shaun,
Nice. I've got the original nose on mine, so not an option
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Post by biggunz on Nov 21, 2013 10:26:28 GMT
Shaun, Nice. I've got the original nose on mine, so not an option Ah I see, I do like the new nose cone just slightly concerned about seeing the indicator from 45 degrees opposite side. Should finish it off nicely! Shaun |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 22, 2013 2:14:45 GMT
Why a 25 dollar module.. A 5 dollar fog lamp relay will do the same thing. triggered by a wire from the headlamp compo switch. Keep all relay and wires in the wire tray in car only run one wire forward to power both DRLs.. I like the gen 2 nose because of the light mounting spot. Also like the gen3 USA nose Kevin is using..
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Post by biggunz on Nov 22, 2013 6:00:34 GMT
Why a 25 dollar module.. A 5 dollar fog lamp relay will do the same thing. triggered by a wire from the headlamp compo switch. Keep all relay and wires in the wire tray in car only run one wire forward to power both DRLs.. I like the gen 2 nose because of the light mounting spot. Also like the gen3 USA nose Kevin is using.. Honest answer I had no idea you could do that! It's probably gonna be post IVA anyway so plenty of time to work on it! Agree with you on the new style, would like to see something like that over here too Shaun |
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Post by biggunz on Nov 25, 2013 17:41:48 GMT
Had the weekend out of the garage (ended up Xmas shopping!) so thought I'd best do something done in there this evening. Managed to wrestle around with the steering rack and get that fitted, also loosened the exhaust manifold nuts ready to put the new one on when I'm allowed it!
Seeing as the chassis gonna stay off the sub frames probably until the new year I'm thinking of checking the condition of the clutch plates. I'm just gonna stick with standard replacements as I'll only be using the car on road/occasional track days so don't see the need for anything fancy unless anyone can see any reason why?
Far too cold out in Scotland tonight to be working late on the car so that's me done for the day!
Shaun
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