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Post by biggunz on Oct 21, 2013 17:36:16 GMT
Yeah they do look good, if anyone is interested let me know I'll pass on his details/get in touch he's based down in south west Wales. Gonna be weighing old versus new tonight hopefully!
On another note harness bar and light pods have arrived, they weren't ready when I collected my kit.
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Post by jgilbert on Oct 21, 2013 20:07:03 GMT
Wow they look fantastic. I have a feeling your guy might be busy producing a whole load of those for lots of other builders! Have you had a chance to weigh then?it would be really interesting to see the weight saving. Agree very nice. |
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Post by R2S on Oct 21, 2013 22:03:18 GMT
The new parts look like quality, where in south wales is the auto grass builder based, can you send me his details via message? Various parts on my Replicar donor are goosed and this looks like a much more sensible approach.
What bushes are you using?
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Post by biggunz on Oct 22, 2013 7:16:25 GMT
He's working from home in Johnston just outside Haverfordwest, Pembrokeshire. Bushes are hyper flex energy suspension, eBay £265 I'll send you his details in a PM
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Post by biggunz on Oct 22, 2013 18:13:37 GMT
Quick check everything fits before getting it ready to go to powder coaters, only issue I found is the lower joint bolt was slightly short but other than that they're looking good!   Just need to start deciding what shocks and springs I'm going with! |
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Oct 22, 2013 18:25:45 GMT
They look superb... just what the Exocet was missing... They would be a great winter upgrade for any Exocet. Keep up the good work. Modifying the Exocet is definitely the way to go.
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Post by biggunz on Oct 22, 2013 18:31:03 GMT
Thanks! It was never something I planned but really glad I've done it now! Should look great once it's all together
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Post by jgilbert on Oct 22, 2013 19:26:47 GMT
Agree with Trident. Looks Fantastic !
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 23, 2013 4:35:49 GMT
Will the taper on the ball joint suck up any further into the upright.. If not I won't run those on my car not even around the block.. The threads don't even come through the nut and nuts have no way to be locked in place by carter key or safety wire on both sides of the joint.. I would want at least 2 complete threads to show out of the nut and be secured in place.. If you put a lock washer on it is even less number of threads in nut.. The top ball joint doesn't look much better and no way to secure the nut.. Would you really want this setup coming apart at 70mph and maybe end up flipping on down the road or track.. There is also not rubber boot to seal the unit..
Units look good and a good idea.. Rear Lower shock mounts looks like a weak spot also. Should at least be secured on both sides of the shock mount..
Just my .02cents..
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Post by biggunz on Oct 23, 2013 7:06:04 GMT
gwnwar if you read my last post you would have noted I said the bolt through the rose joint is not long enough and I will be fitting a longer one. There is no split pin as it uses a self locking 'nylock' nut. There is no rubber boot as standard on rose joints, but if wanted they are easy to put on, not sure if it's just the pics but the rear mount for the shocker looks plenty strong enough, and I'm confident in then! Shaun
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Post by biggunz on Oct 23, 2013 8:12:52 GMT
Also note none of the nuts have been fully tighten hence no thread showing , this was just to make sure everything fitted together
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 23, 2013 16:09:01 GMT
OK sounds good on longer bolt.. I myself (to each his own)would not use a Nylock nut on the suspension bits.
I would find a graded nut and drill the shaft for a carter pin or a nut for safety wiring.
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 23, 2013 16:23:55 GMT
How much of the tapper goes into the upright..is it in fully in the pic. If it goes in till no taper is showing
will you have enough space between upright and joint housing to allow full travel up/down with out bottoming out between the two.. On the shock mount I would like to see 2 brackets to secure the lower mount. The shock with its moving for/aft a little in its travel because of the rubber top mount design will flex the lower bracket.. It would take a long time to break but weak weld might. Guess I am just to what if..
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Post by biggunz on Oct 23, 2013 16:57:38 GMT
There is two brackets for the shock on the rear, one is the metal plate, the other is a hole with an insert in the tubular arm. The bolt will pass through both of these. Not sure what you mean reference full travel before bottoming out.
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Post by gwnwar on Oct 23, 2013 18:08:44 GMT
On the bottoming out.. In the 2nd pic close up of the lower joint is the tapered part of the joint fully seated in the upright?? If not how far up does it go in?? If all the way so no tapper is showing will there be enough space between the joint body and the upright when the A arms move up/down to swivel the ball with out hitting the joint body and upright together?? If not things will start to bend.. On an OEM lower/upper joint the stem is longer to allow full movement/space.. just something to check after you get bushings in and arms mounted in place with upright install and torqued down.. FYI torque on OEM type lower B joint nut is 43>57lbs. Upper type OEM joint nuts 30>45lbs. both have carter keys..
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