Yes indeed Bob, be prepared to file & or grind a few holes to fit the motor in. The service manual that's available on line for your year motor will list torque specs for the different fasteners. Take care,,,,
I was impressed with the kit as it is only one hole that is slightly out and that's only by a few mm, so I hope to sort it this Sunday, if I get the time. I also need to use a Die on the long bolt to extend the thread. First time doing that, use a Tap from my kit before, quite looking forward to it
Hello, well time for an update, engine in and swing arm and all wheels ? I'm planning on doing the coolant system over the holidays. My question is should I use the standard expansion tank or is it better to get a new one? Not sue what the benefits are of getting a new one? Any advice? Many thanks Bob
Late 2010; Got interested, visited RTR & ordered a tR1ke February 2011; Purchased and dismantled a R1 April 2011; Started building June 2012; UK Approval by RTR July 2012; NL Approved and licensed! August 2012 and on: Driving & fine tuning.... August 2015; Sold my Tr1ke. Up for a new project.
I agree I think there are a lot of variations out there and they all seem to work fine:-) I went for a header tank at the back by the thermostat and removed all the little bleed tubes so that left just the 2 alloy pipes running to the rad. If you plan to use the standard R1 temp sensor and fan switch then may I suggest you move it to somewhere at the back otherwise the fan kicks in a bit on the high side :-)
There's an excellent diagram for the configuration of the cooling system on Slugshot's build thread which I followed. Got a good expansion pot kit from CBS which was one of the better bargains (there weren't many!) I found during my build.
The set up works very well and having a chest high pot at the back of the Tr1ke to be able top up/check the coolant level is handy. I will pop in a fan override switch soon as I find things get a little hot before the system kicks in automatically.
I now have mine similar to andy's setup as it seems the bleed pipes can be blanked off without suffering any heating problems. I still use the header tank as before but only have 3 hoses in use, the bottom returns to a T in the return from the rad, the other's the little bleed pipe from the thermostat and the other to the expansion tank. The hose from the oil cooler T's into the main feed from the thermostat to the rad.
I added a breather tank on mine as well along with the bleed pipes connected. I was highly suprised I was only i need for an additional 1" coolant in the breather tank after 1st startup. I guess the pump bleeding pipe routed correctly upwards without airtraps plays a big part on it. For road use the cooling is exellent but I have placed my rad vertical and used a wired mesh for better airflow.
Thanks for all the advice, I like the idea of the header tank at the back to easy coolant level checks so might go with Slugshots original diagram. I assume you have to get the header tank and an expansion tank which you both mount at the back by the engine.
I will try to share more pictures but putting them on here was a problem last time and I gave up. I'll have a better go over the holidays.
Yes you assumed correct, the header tank from cbs has a pressure cap to vent excess coolant. The expansion tank catches it instead of dumping the slippery and expensive coolant onto the road. If you're going to have your gear change mounted in the tunnel and having a header tank at the rear, its worth considering the simpler setup in my last post. The tunnel is very cramped with 5 hoses, wires, and control cables. I can do a simple diagram if you want.
I mounted my R1 expansion tank to the front side of the bulkhead so it's easy to see the coolant level and refill if needed. have a browse in my thread. If I were to route the coolant hoses again I'd strongly reconsider to mount them along the sides of the chasis instead of inside the tunnel.This will increase coolant area and dissipation quite a bit and one could bin the tunnel if one is a bit creative. Enough playroom to tweak the concept LOL!! br, Erik
As promised, this is the cooling setup for my r1 motor. To fill the system it's easier if the tR1ke is lifted at the front so the rad fill point is higher than the header tank, I fill from the rad until the header tank's full. Then re fit the header cap and continue to fill until the rad is full and refit the cap. Then lower the tR1ke and top up the header tank. My previous setup is on my build thread.
That's pretty much what I have too and it behaves perfectly:-) the only difference is I don't use the expansion tank, I have the header tank about half full and it hasn't dribbled anything out yet:-) and I've got my temp sensor and fan switch in the hose from from the thermostat before the oil cooler T piece.
Hi that's great thanks, been putting a new shock on today and changing one off the collars as it was warn. Shock was terrible but didn't notice when I got the Donar bike. Will be looking at this tomorrow ? thanks