Morning Bob, looks like we are in the same boat. My frame was already coated so doing anything to the bracket was out of the question so the application of washers was needed. I also had to make a couple of holes in the column wider. It seemed a bit strange to me as the frame is made for the column supplied by RTR but when I spoke to them about it, it didn't seem to be an issue. Part of the fun of self build I suppose.
Thanks for the advice and the picture should be sorting that this weekend and then marking up the connector for the welding. Well trip back to the boys in the workshop at work to ask them to do it for me.
Well thought I'd give an update on my build. All going well if a bit slowly however, I'm off for the next few days so thought I'd get on before day out to Stoneleigh on Sunday.
Been jumping about a bit as haven't 100% stripped my doner bike so getting on with that as well as finishing the front of the car.
Just about finish one front hub assembly, didn't start the other as was a bit worried they were handed and I'll end up with two near side units!
One question I could do with some help with is what torque should I tighten the castellated nut too? As I tighten it then the hub seems to turn less freely and I'm worried if I over tighten it then I'll damage the bearings. Any advice?
Hi Bob I did mine to 150 pounds and it's been just fine so far, I did find that one side needed the retaining washer grinding a smidge as at full torque I was binding very slightly with the hub giving a tight spot but I think its just that the washer isn't as round as it could be and has a seam round it. Hope this helps Andy
Thanks for the info, is that foot pounds which according to Google is about 203 NM or is it pounds per inch which is 17 NM. I assume it is foot pounds and 17NM doesn't seem much or is it the case that the torque isn't that important considering you have a split pin to stop it moving?
I have four washers as a spacer so the castellated nut can be at the correct height to allow the split pin to go through correctly.
Its pounds feet but I've just re read your question and I may have given duff info sorry, are we talk ing the main front hub nut? As mine isn't castlelated, just a large lock nut that's clamps the bearing up. Are your bearings straight or tapered? As taper bearings need next to no torqure hence the split pin.
Thanks for that I'll give that a try. I was going to go with plenty of threadlock as well to help out :-)
Just sent about 2 hours taking the fuel tank off my donor bike and trying to empty it of fuel. As I was doing this I could here a rattle which didn't seem correct so when I was final empty I spent another 30 mins trying to get this circular bit of plastic out. I could see it but couldn't get it out. Finally got it after taking out the level gauge unit. It turned out to be the datatag thingy which the previous owner must have put in. Didn't think having a rattling fuel tank would be very good for it's resale value.
Well after what has been months with no progress I have a completely free Saturday so planning on making a push and getting the engine in. Would also like to get the swing arm on too so I have a rolling chassis.
All should be simples but I thought that about the quick rake conversion!
I have also found a two day lathe course for beginners which I'm doing in December. Not sure if it will be usual for this build but building so far has got my interest in engineering.
Right either early to bed so I can have an early start at it or Option B go to the pub??
Let's not kid ourselves we all know it's option B ?
Well engine is all clean now but just need some advice. Should I put the swingarm on first and then the engine or vice verse?
I leaning toward engine first as I was going to put the engine on the ground and lower the frame over the top in which case having the swingarm on would get in the way.
Any advice from out there?
Hi Bob, This is how i did it. Engine on a small trolley. Lifting and lowering the frame over the engine. It takes two persons to do this, at least. One to lower the frame. One to guide the engine.
Second is the swing arm.
Good luck, edwin
Late 2010; Got interested, visited RTR & ordered a tR1ke February 2011; Purchased and dismantled a R1 April 2011; Started building June 2012; UK Approval by RTR July 2012; NL Approved and licensed! August 2012 and on: Driving & fine tuning.... August 2015; Sold my Tr1ke. Up for a new project.
Thanks for the advice, did it that was and with just a little swearing it all seems to work ok. One of the holes in the mounting bracket is just slightly off so I'll open that up a little bit next week end.
There are also a few gaps about 5 mm where the engine goes between the two mounting brackets for the long bolts. I was going to pack that out with washers then just tighten it up.
Does that seem ok? Any idea off torque settings or just use lock tight and don't go mad?
Hi Bob, Do as you said with the washers and tighten as you would a 10mm bolt, good and tight without stripping the thread. The engine mounts for the early R1 kit do need ovaling out to fit the engine, I had to modify the mounts for the cylinder head lug as it was half a hole out. Kevin