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Post by RPA on Feb 13, 2015 19:08:51 GMT
Evening,
As always after some advice, due to house buying and a spot of man flu I haven't done much on the kit for a while but want to put the radiator on this weekend, does anyone have a design for some brackets to mount the radiator and the best location to put the radiator?
Any photos would be great to allow me to see how the radiator goes on and the location of the pipes. I plan to put an expansion tank on the back.
thanks in advance.
Bob
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Feb 14, 2015 8:19:17 GMT
Hi Bob,
Have a look at page 3 on my build thread. It shows the rad, the pipe route and the expansion bottle at the back. I used the original R1 bottom bracket for the radiator and made a couple of steel ones at the top and there's loads of similar methods in the threads, if it helps. I just put the rad dead centre and because I wanted to maintain a similar tilt it had on the bike, this dictated the length and position of the top brackets.
Good luck,
Richard.
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Post by RPA on Feb 14, 2015 9:14:46 GMT
Morning Richard,
Thanks for the advice, I have the pictures now and see what you mean.
I have an older donor and so the Radiator is straight but same should allow if I set up the base then that will show how long the tops have to be.
Many thanks
Bob
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Post by RPA on Mar 13, 2016 17:13:40 GMT
Afternoon all,
Well finally the house seems to be sorted, my recent man flu has gone and a trip to the restoration show at the NEC last weekend has got be back to the build, so radiator and pipes going on over the next couple of weeks. But I do need a bit of advice so my questions are:
Question 1) Should I use pot rivets or rivnuts to secure the "P" clips for the coolant pipes which go down under the tunnel.
Question 2) Do the "P" clips have to be at a set distance apart for the test?
As always thanks in advice.
Bob
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Post by mawdo81 on Mar 13, 2016 18:16:59 GMT
1 depends if you ever want to change. I'm rivnut-ing mine and it has the added benefit of not needing the pipe in situ to do so.
2 no just adequately supported...
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Post by erik on Mar 14, 2016 18:38:38 GMT
Bin the pipes and use hoses all the way. This will minimize connections and possible leakages. I T-wrapped the hoses next to each other and turned out the total width is still a tight fit in the tunnel. No use for rivetting or P clips (lack of width!!). Do note the gear lever could be best build outside the tunnel. and hoses+loom inside the tunnel.
Take your time understanding the cooling circuit. If you route the hoses right you could be able to fill the system in one session and add about 50cc after the engine runs warm.
good luck! Erik
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Post by RPA on Mar 14, 2016 21:24:47 GMT
Hello,
Many thanks for the advice from both of you. I have a plan of the coolant from other treads so will look at that and see about the room in the tunnel.
To be honest I haven't thought about the room as assumed there would be plenty.
Have been looking at the angle of the radiator and that looks like it is dependant on the angles for the pipes to allow them to go under the front frame.
Seems like I have some head scratching to do this weekend.
I has assumed that the gear change mech would be inside the tunnel with just the lever outside. Is it mainly built on the top of the tunnel or does that give you the most room?
Regards
Bob
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Post by erik on Mar 15, 2016 17:51:54 GMT
Hi Bob, if I had to rebuild the gear lever I'd place gommets on the floor under the seat and bolt a strip on the gommets where the gear lever is mounted on next to the tunnel.You need proper leverage to shift. The gommets will act as a hinge. It's very similar to the idle lever I added on top of my tunnel. Unfortunately, the tunnel is very restricted in space. I managed to cramp in the loom, hoses, gear lever and R1 starter key (keem em warm and dry ) but the gear lever is the most PITA inside the tunnel. This is a moving part inside the tunnel where there's near no height on top of the hoses. I used drawer slides to achieve low height movement in the tunnel. The radiator is quite often tilted forwards to create room for hoses but this will restrict airflow and overheat the engine. I rotated the rad NOT tilting to create space for the hoses. Bin the stock mash as well. this has only 50% see through area. Stainless steel braided mesh has about 70% which helps a lot. Have a browse in my thread. You may find several usefull details worth looking into. greets! Erik
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Post by RPA on Mar 18, 2016 16:26:50 GMT
Erik,
Thanks for all the advice, I need to get some work done so I can understand the space issue etc. and think about the gear change.
Should be a busy weekend, might put a lock on the inside of the garage so I can't be disturbed!
Sure I'll be back soon asking more questions.
Regards
Bob
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Post by erik on Mar 20, 2016 8:17:50 GMT
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Post by bobmick on Apr 3, 2016 13:19:55 GMT
I was quite interested in the TR1ke and Exo emailed a copy of a build guide that Kit Car magazine had compiled when they were building their magazine featured TR1ke.
It's got a lot of useful pointers and if you don't have a copy just email them.
Bobmick
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Post by RPA on Mar 1, 2023 23:40:40 GMT
Hello all,
Well after a massive few years of doing nothing I am back with the build, Almost finished the coolant last weekend and going to move onto the brake this weekend.
So my questions are:
a) Is there anyone looking at this any more? b) Does any one have a diagram of the brake system I could use or have any lengths of pipes etc.
Many thanks
Bob
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