Well its been a few weeks since I started so I thought I'd post an update. Not maganged to do loads as just doing lots of measuring! So far the pedals are on and the floor cut to size. Managed to drill the first hole through the floor and into the frame which ws nerve racking. Have marked the other holes and drilled a dozen or so. I also heated the floor plate so I could bend it around the bottom frame.
All looking good so far
One question I have is about the brake bias bar, one end is shorter than the other so should it go a certain way round? Does the shorter end go to the front brake or back?
Moving towards the steering rack now and I have a quick turn rack so need to change the rack and pinion gear. My question is what is the best type of grease to use? Before I started I was blissfully ignorant of all the versions of grease. So after asking some friends who have engineering backgrounds Moly grease has been advised, is that the best to use? and if so how much do you put in?
I used Castrol multi purpose grease when I fitted the quick rack, putting plenty on the rack teeth and pinion gear and also on the nylon wedge adjuster,and a light coating along the rack to stop any rusting. Cheers Kevin
The reconditioned rack that came with my kit was like new, so the plastic tension adjuster unscrewed with no drama. The locking tabs that are on the track rods will need a good bit of force to release the rods from the rack. I griped the track rod in the vice and turned the rack with a long bar over a smaller one through one of the rack mountings.
I don't have any springs on mine to aid centreing, I think some of the rocket owners have experimented with them but as long as you don't tension the slipper wedge too much you shouldn't need them.
Well thought I would share my adventure which was the quick rack conversion. As I've come to find out nothing is easy but everything is learning.
I removed the tie rods without too much fuss then found a wrench on ebay which would allow me to torque them back up again ok, it was from a BERGEN-Professional-Universal-Tie-Rod-Wrench-33-42mm and wasn't too expensive.
Next came the slipper plug, simple I though as I got a 20mm hex key but that was too small as the distance across the flats of the nut was something very strange, I think I would it out to be 13/16" or just under 21mm. After another visit to google I found that a M14 nut was 20.6 mm across the flats so got one of them welded onto a M14 bolt (thanks to the company workshop) and could use that with a socket. This fitted well but the nut was stuck fast and it finally came out but only in about 30 different bits. With hindsight perhaps locktight had been used and I should have warmed up the metal outer casing, oh well. I rang RTR and Harry said this was quite common and they had some spares so that was sorted.
Next came the pinion nit which should have been easy as the pictures showed a nut you could tap round. When I removed the plastic cover all I could see was flat metal with no holes! Initially I though this might have been a new design and this was the top of a bearing which had been pushed into place. After some more head scratching I decided it would come out one way or another. So I went for my bigger hammer and flat punch and after heating up the outercase and some brute force and ignorance the nut moved and I could tap it round.
So swapped over the rod and the pinion gear but then had to figure out how to re-tighten the nut. The nut already had a hole in it from my tapping(!) so drilled another hole opposite the first and then used the key I had from my angle grinder to tighten it up. This worked very well and I was pleased with the outcome. I still need to master putting in photos and when I have I'll put in a few pictures.
All in all it took a lot longer than I thought but I did learn a lot and had fun
Well after the fun of the steering rack I have started on the column and after removing the airbag without the requirement of a controlled explosion I noticed that although the brackets on the frame line up with the bracket on the column there is a gap. Now I can fill the gap with washers but is that ok? Or should I make up some form of spacer?
I would have thought that using washers would have the same strength as a solid spacer? Does anyone out there have any advice?