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Post by mrjingles705 on Sept 25, 2014 7:28:01 GMT
+1 for the tap on the starter (emphasis on gentle, don't crack the casing) assuming you've checked all electricals. Really easy for the spindle to stick if sat a while.
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 27, 2014 8:33:59 GMT
+1 for the tap on the starter (emphasis on gentle, don't crack the casing) assuming you've checked all electricals. Really easy for the spindle to stick if sat a while. Thanks guys, answer , main earth cable. As I've moved my battery, fitted new crimp lugs and attached one end directly to the engine and away she went. I will see if I can post a video over the weekend. |
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 27, 2014 19:42:49 GMT
No video, but drove my car for the first time. Me and Luke went down the drive and back. All of 20 metre  He had a big grin and said Wow it's low! Asked him if he wanted to drive it? He said, no not this time. One thing I did notice is the front wheel stay picks up vibration from the engine. Just need to create a little clearance between the fibreglass and the stay arms. Also idle speed is high @ between 1,500 and 1,000 rpm. Overall great day, started the wire stripping process this afternoon. |
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Post by scooby1929 on Sept 27, 2014 21:12:56 GMT
I am sure it felt amazing driving her for the first time. Never new there was a rear fog warning light and hazard warning light on the dash and i have had 2 mk1s? I assume these must light for iva. Would the jap imports have these as there is no rear fog fitted in Japan
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 28, 2014 16:44:12 GMT
John.. Adjust the idle speed, first jump the TEN and Grd. in the dia. box same as you would to set timing.. When done remove jumper..
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 28, 2014 19:04:47 GMT
John.. Adjust the idle speed, first jump the TEN and Grd. in the dia. box same as you would to set timing.. When done remove jumper.. Thanks. Will do. Today concentrated on stripping wire (god I now hate looming tape) anyway she still fires up. To prove the point, Luke reversed his first Exocet back I to the garage! Smooth clutch control. Well done boy! Obligatory photo of box full of wire.  Good day. |
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Post by gnc on Sept 28, 2014 19:36:07 GMT
John and Luke, well done on getting your car started and able to drive. You've done an amazing job and must be almost there.
That sure is a lot of redundant wiring. Cant wait to get to the same stage.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 28, 2014 21:54:51 GMT
John.. Have you put a new radiator on your to get list.. Once the top tank turns green the are on there way out..
If you are going to stay with OEM type parts get a radiator for an automatic car they are half again as thick as a manual rad unit..don't worry about the coolant ports for the auto trans just cap off.
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 29, 2014 4:11:50 GMT
John.. Have you put a new radiator on your to get list.. Once the top tank turns green the are on there way out.. If you are going to stay with OEM type parts get a radiator for an automatic car they are half again as thick as a manual rad unit..don't worry about the coolant ports for the auto trans just cap off. Yes agree, worse bit of the car. I would like to replace with a Ally one if I can find one at a sensible price. There a lot cheaper in the States. Next trip to the States I might see if I can bring one back. |
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 29, 2014 4:12:10 GMT
John.. Have you put a new radiator on your to get list.. Once the top tank turns green the are on there way out.. If you are going to stay with OEM type parts get a radiator for an automatic car they are half again as thick as a manual rad unit..don't worry about the coolant ports for the auto trans just cap off. Yes agree, worse bit of the car. I would like to replace with a Ally one if I can find one at a sensible price. There a lot cheaper in the States. Next trip to the States I might see if I can bring one back. |
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Post by jgilbert on Oct 13, 2014 20:56:42 GMT
So having ripped out a lot of excess wiring, started the process of putting it all back together. Started with the rear loom. Run the supply to my backlights and fuel pump/sender along centre tunnel This will be covered. Then using ribbed flexible conduit, underneath my boot floorpan. Added an additional earth point before the cable goes under the boot floor. See second photo.   Then the business end, cable management. Used a OEM rubber grommet to pass the cables through the floor pan. Lights either side, loom up and over the top of the fuel tank for the sender/pump and rear lights and central loom for number plate light/for and reverse lights. Earths bolted to tank mounting bolts which were welded to the chassis prior to powder coating.  |
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Post by welshy1 on Oct 13, 2014 22:02:28 GMT
Looking good I had a box that big with excess wires and took me and my dad a while to get it sorted. On the rad front ive ordered a ally rad with slim line rad and silicone hoses from mx5dan on the mx5nutz forum the rad is £120 52mm core ally never heard a bad word against the guy.
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Post by jgilbert on Oct 20, 2014 22:19:34 GMT
Lights now wired and working. Had to rewire as the original connector block was to big to pass thought the hole on my light bracket. Time consuming buy now done.
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Post by jgilbert on Nov 1, 2014 18:14:34 GMT
H'mm so I thought I had my lights all sorted. Then I found with the ignition on the 'shutter' that deflects the dip/beam wouldn't return to dip? figured I was getting some feedback voltage to the solenoid that works the shutter. Anyway now sorted, but by trial and error when I removed these two relays. Trident did you have this problem??  They are on the LHS on the loom. Can anyone tell me want they do? The wiring colours don't match any of the wiring diagrams I have got?  And then, ended up giving myself a 'Mini Trident' with a scalpel blade!!! LOL!  |
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Nov 1, 2014 20:07:51 GMT
I've still got those relays as well. The issue you are describing sounds like the problem I had and might still have as I never fully resolved the issue as there was a little time delay on the lights switching back from full beam. I assumed they were something to do with the lights, especially the bigger one as the red/white wire was the same as one of the wires to the head light….. if I remember correctly. Don't know what they do but might try disconnecting my ones and see what happens… I have just looked at my old donor photos and they are both located by the wiper motor under a plastic cover but not sure if this has any bearing on what they do. I would love to know myself. Scalpel…..!!!! Power tools do a much better job.  |
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