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Post by erik on Sept 12, 2012 21:24:37 GMT
Hehe, take it easy. Your car is fine, only has a light flue which needs it's medicine. I was referring to tr1ke in general. if this is a design flaw we may consider ourselves lucky to cure it for 100euro to make it rock steady at full workload. I found it remarkable the shocks need no modification in stock motorcycle config. Doesn't make sense right?
I myself was planning a visit to Hyperpro anyway to adjust/check all shocks if needed. i'd rather thrust a profesional team rather myself.
br, Erik
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Post by seabee70 on Sept 14, 2012 19:01:51 GMT
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Post by edwinwl on Sept 15, 2012 5:39:12 GMT
Worst case solution is to replace the total rear shock + spring by a longer version.
We will see.
Sent from my GT-S5660 using proboards
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Post by erik on Sept 15, 2012 7:51:44 GMT
If lucky the rear shock can be modified along with a new spring. I wouldn't be in favour for a welding session on a coated chasis. I'd be in favour foe a more hidden "fix" on the other side of the shock.
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Post by seabee70 on Sept 16, 2012 0:05:01 GMT
I agree with Erik & that's why I'll wait 'til all's finished to get it coated. My son assisted me today with fitting the bonnet. I moved the radiator closer to the frame,which made the marking,removing,cut & check the fit,a lot easier. So now I'll ask your opinion as to the best (?) way to fasten the bonnet to the frame. Thanks for your replies.
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Post by edwinwl on Sept 16, 2012 17:33:51 GMT
Rear section is clamped across the frame. Front section was dancing while driving. This is how I fixed it:
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Post by erik on Sept 16, 2012 20:42:25 GMT
So now I'll ask your opinion as to the best (?) way to fasten the bonnet to the frame. Thanks for your replies. Just did some research in my own thread and found no pics to forward you to. When my chasis is back I'll show you the 8 locations. Just proceed with something else now
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Sept 17, 2012 4:27:50 GMT
Mine is fixed on 5 points only (in the middle of the dash, close to the headlight supports and below radiator) and until now no problems yet. It has run over 4000 km now, survived speeds up to 210 km/h, seen very bad paved, or not paved at all roads, hit a lot of speed bumps and it had a collision while parked with a car which was backing up. The mounting points are holding on great!
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards
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Post by seabee70 on Sept 17, 2012 12:57:15 GMT
Have you used rubber grommets to help cushion the vibration ? How 'bout large diameter washers to spread the pressure point ? Self tapping screws or drill & tap for machine bolts ? Details please.
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Sept 17, 2012 20:16:46 GMT
I used the quick release screws which have been used on the original fairing. You know, the ones you have to turn 1/4 to release or fasten. They are spring loaded, so vibration is dampened. Made some extra fixing points like this: and welded them to the frame. how it looks from the outside: This is for the 2 lower points. they must be removable, (M6 rivet nuts used in the frame) or the nose won't come off: And, a bit unclear, but in the red circles the fixing points:
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Post by seabee70 on Sept 18, 2012 0:09:30 GMT
Thanks for the pics,Rik. That looks like a good solution to keep me busy while waiting for parts to arrive.
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Post by alanstrike on Sept 26, 2012 6:53:02 GMT
Thanks for the compliment,Edwin. During your build,you experienced what I & another builder have seen. The oem shock spring allows the kit to sag quite a bit when the operator & passenger are in it. I believe I read where you were thinking of using a progressive spring for the rear shock,so I have to ask fi you are using one or something else ? I'll ask Rik how he solved that problem & if anyone reading this has a solution,please share it with us. Thanks guys.... Hi from Australia I have a Trike based on an FJR1300 and found a similar problem with driving 2 up also had problems with high speed stability - spec is std shock / spring - solution was to raise rear of trike by installing shorter " dog bone" links car was transformed - rock solid at 200kms on a track and no clearance problems - i had also to comply with our registration requirements of min 110mm clearance ( i was at 60mm ) - a race bike engineer picked it as bikes have a positive rake as compared to flat like i had - great to see you are enjoying the trike - just turned over 10,000kms of the best fun 3 wheels
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Post by edwinwl on Sept 26, 2012 10:59:00 GMT
Hi Alan, Thank you for sharing your findings. Last weeks I had other priorities than optimizing my tR1ke. When ready I will share my findings as well.
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Post by seabee70 on Oct 28, 2012 21:31:35 GMT
HI guys,,,,Another question from a transplanted yankee. Are any of you using LED lights ? My son used some in his rear brake lights & now he's asked to ride in the rear when out with friends. I've found a few places but I'm unsure of spending more $$ on the adapter than on the lights. Any advice is appreciated as always.
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Post by edwinwl on Oct 29, 2012 6:16:13 GMT
Hi Val. My tr1ke has all led lights except the head lights. You need to replace the standard indicator relay by a led version.
For Dutch legislation lights need to be E-marked. You have to check for US. Sites for custom motorbike parts have plenty lights.
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