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Post by jake on Sept 18, 2013 11:18:56 GMT
Hi Mightylad,
What are those seats you have in your rocket?
Cheers
Jake
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Post by jake on Jul 19, 2013 9:34:23 GMT
Hi there Andy, I'm with you about the RD uprights. I had to get new top hats to get the ball joints to fit correctly. I sent one hub assembly back because the bearing shell was to loose. ( it fell in) I sent another hub back because it had massive run out, ( you could see it, let alone measure with it with a dial gauge. The other ones not great still. If my car does n't have brake judder it will be a miracle. Also I had to rub the stub axles down slightly to get the bearings to fit over them. And the calipers did n't line up on the discs, so I used two spacers fitted behind the stub, this spaced it perfectly so I had some new spacers machined to the correct thickness. Like you my front track width is wider than the rear. I'm not going to bother fitting different offset wheels on the rear. I don't it think will make a huge difference to handling. Just had a look at the high spec uprights on they re site and they look pretty good. For the front rack adjuster I initially used a huge nut cap (cant remember what size) but I thought it looked a bit funny, so in the end I got one of these which fits perfectly and looks good. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110cc-Quad-Bike-Stub-Axle-Wheel-Nut-Cover-Cap-Rubber-/260524038587?pt=UK_CartsParts_Vehicles_ATVQuad_Trike_Parts_Accessories_SM&hash=item3ca87159bb#ht_2110wt_830Cheers Jake
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Post by jake on Jun 28, 2013 13:03:32 GMT
The Right hand drive shaft is only held in by the clamp around the support bearing on the long shaft part. Remove the clamp and pull the RH shaft out. Using a long thinish flat screw driver or similar drift/punch, carefully go in through the RH drive shaft hole. You can see the LH end of the drive shaft behind the centre pin in the diff. You can then knock the shaft out by going to one side of the diff pin. There is a special Ford tool with a forked end for doing this, but this method works if your carefull. Don't use a too bigger dirft/screw driver or can get a bit stuck.
Jake
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Post by jake on Jun 3, 2013 14:04:36 GMT
Thanks Paul, that was just what I was after. I think they re the shorter ones.
Jake
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Post by jake on Jun 2, 2013 18:42:49 GMT
I had this problem too. It didn't quite come to damaging the ball joint boots though.
If I remember I think I had 3 larger and 1 smaller top hat. I spent a while moving the top hats around until I got one side to fit well, top and bottom.
In the end I had to contact Rally Design and they sent me another top hat which luckily when arrived was the smaller measurement and I got them all to fit well.
Those RD uprights are a PITA.
Theres alot to be said for using hubs and uprights etc from production cars, when you bolt bits together you know they re going to fit.
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Post by jake on May 30, 2013 19:03:54 GMT
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Post by jake on May 14, 2013 9:36:50 GMT
Anyone from Blewbury building a Rocket ? PM sent
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Post by jake on Mar 25, 2013 18:49:22 GMT
Hi Adam,
Just had a look at the wiring diagram, and yeah your right
Pin 2 GN/BU - 12volt feed Pin 1 BK/OG - to pins 26 or 58 on ECU (depending on ECU) Pin 3 BK/GN - to pins 52 or 59 on ECU (depending on ECU)
I think I would be inclined to try another coil pack. Re check your wiring and make sure nothings shorting out anywhere. I can't really see what else it could be.
Is yours an early Focus with the ignition transformer capacitor next to the coil pack(a little white box). This is only for suppression but check that wirings all ok and not touching anything( the feed for that comes off the same wire as pin 2 to the coil pack)
Hope you sort it.
Jake
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Post by jake on Feb 13, 2013 15:20:43 GMT
The cylinder head temp sensor in the head is crucial if your using the ford ECU. I would leave it in as its used by the ECU. Fit the acewell sensor in the thermosat housing or a hose fitting near the head. The acewell sensor will only be for the gauge I take it.
Jake
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Post by jake on Jan 26, 2013 14:30:47 GMT
Very nice! I like the simplicity. That's what these cars are all about.
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Post by jake on Dec 21, 2012 14:36:07 GMT
poor progress today, had issues with track rod ends and the RD uprights, got focus ones and the diameter is too large for the top hats provided. Anyone have any ideas on which ones it should be? Sierra, cortina any other random crap. More pics when i host them properly The track rod ends are for an rs2000. I got mine from rally design, part number rd819. The bottom ball joints are for an Austin Maxi. Hope this helps if not too late Jake
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Post by jake on Nov 28, 2012 15:19:12 GMT
Is nt the puma IB5 gearbox rod linkage controlled like the fiesta? Yeah you would definitelywant the puma racing internals. I think some had a LSD.
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Post by jake on Nov 27, 2012 20:04:04 GMT
Has anyone ever thought about using a puma engine for a Rocket? Its the same block as the 1.6 se Zetec. They're 1700cc, varible cam timing, 125 BHP. Its a light alluminium block. They're a great little engine! I think you would need to change the sump for a Focus one, as Its a different to the Focus Sump so it would n't mate up to the Focus IB5 gearbox, as the Puma's basically a Fiesta platform. I think it would be a good combination, weight, power
Sorry to Hijack the thread.
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Post by jake on Nov 20, 2012 17:15:57 GMT
Were those side repeaters ok for the IVA in that position?
Cheers Jake
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Post by jake on Nov 16, 2012 13:11:36 GMT
Put some thread lock on the reverse light switch and re tighten. It should nt come loose again, unless the threads are damaged.
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