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Post by jake on Jan 23, 2017 14:13:23 GMT
Welcome to the forum. It's good to have another member close by. I've got a Rocket and live about 10 miles north of Newbury. There's engine balancing place locally who's quite a specialist with MX5 engines. Might be handy to know.
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Post by jake on Dec 1, 2016 21:36:00 GMT
A Gas heater and bottle.....?
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Post by jake on Nov 26, 2016 20:09:47 GMT
Great that's good to hear. Thanks for the offer I may well need some help. I'll see how I get on.
Cheers
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Post by jake on Nov 26, 2016 12:09:40 GMT
Its good if you've got someone close with a rolling road. Yes I agree. There's a motorsports company about 5 miles from where I live with a rolling road who are experienced with Emerald Mapping so it makes sense to go that route and use them.
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Post by jake on Nov 26, 2016 9:53:19 GMT
Dam it, wish I'd known about this ECU setup before I'd gone the VVT delete setup. This would have been perfect. At the time when I started doing the engine I'm sure that ME only had the VVT controller. Oh well hopefully my fast road cams will make up for ditching the VVT.
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Post by jake on Nov 25, 2016 15:23:09 GMT
That sounds like a good setup. I'm currently building ST170 engine for my Rocket. I did look into that particular VVT controller which seems to be a good one to control it properly. It does get good reports. It's seems like you're getting good results. I decided against it in the end just for the simplicity of having one ECU. So I had the Camshafts reground by Piper to fast road spec with some vernier pulleys and the VVT delete kit. Like yourself I've refreshed the bottom end, rings, shells ARP bolts. And I was lucky enough to get hold of a complete Jackson racing supercharger kit for an ST170. Next thing on the list is an Emerald ECU, loads to do still...... Good to see someone else tuning one of these engines. They're fitted with fairly good Pistons and a good flowing head. I think you have to throw a bit more money at them but worth it in my opinion.
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Post by jake on Nov 25, 2016 10:25:41 GMT
Great build, that's made some good power. Are you still running the VVT on an aftermarket ECU?
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Post by jake on Nov 12, 2016 17:49:26 GMT
Hi Pete, Welcome to the Forum. Have fun with your build. For removing tight Philips head bolts try a decent large Phillips screw driver that has the shaft going right through the handle to the end, so you can tap it with a hammer whilst applying pressure and turning at the same time. Failing that an impact driver is good option and they're not much money.
Regards Jake
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help
Nov 5, 2016 20:18:44 GMT
via mobile
robin likes this
Post by jake on Nov 5, 2016 20:18:44 GMT
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Post by jake on Nov 4, 2016 9:02:35 GMT
Give it a try. If it doesn't seal properly with just the seal I would drill/cut the guts out of the thermostat so you're left with basically a big washer to hold the seal.
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Post by jake on Oct 31, 2016 11:31:37 GMT
Yes that looks like the right one. You can get the seals separately from Ford, but for that money you might as well get the whole thing. The thermostat seal fits on the thermostat so If you're taking the thermostat out make sure the seal stays in place when reassembling. I've wondered about this, with the no thermostat does the seal squash up enough to seal ok with the reduced thickness of having no thermostat? I'm sure others have done it....?
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Post by jake on Oct 20, 2016 20:11:48 GMT
That looks like a good solution. I assume the chain drive unit is mounted rigidly, and not on any type of rubber mounts......? I'm in the process of making a front suspension brace bar using a similar design to yours cupping both sides of the mount. I'm using a turnbuckle adjuster (to add some tension) eBay item 331758665459. Some 22mm OD x 3mm wall thickness tube, and I was lucky enough to find some 3mm U channel with a 50mm ID cut to 30mm wide to cup the mounts. I'll post some pictures when done.
Jake
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Post by jake on Oct 8, 2016 21:05:35 GMT
That's not good news! So how does this work......? Does the car have to go to for another Independent inpection to ensure it complies to the electric vehicle regulations......and this costs £6k! Then it Has its IVA to check the remaining bits?
Jake
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Post by jake on Oct 15, 2013 14:15:31 GMT
The workshop manual for the IB5 gearbox is on Ford TIS (Technical Information System). Fords own workshop manual which used to be on CD before it all went online. Its very usefull, has all the older models and wiring diagrams too. There are people selling it on Ebay for a few pounds.
Jake
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Post by jake on Sept 27, 2013 9:59:33 GMT
I bought a cheap 2.0 litre focus off eBay, with 3rd gear synchro gone (common fault on MTX 75) then bought an IB5 box. Stripped engine to the block leaving pistons and crank in, cleaned and painted, New gaskets, belts, water pump etc. zetecs are a strong engine and there are many that reach 200 thousand + miles on the road. Mine has done 100 thousand miles and still had the honing marks in the bores.
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