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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 20, 2018 18:37:14 GMT
No, definitely needs um for a trip to your favourite restaurant I'm guessing the KFC was shut?
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 20, 2018 18:30:42 GMT
Stuart's red ex-demonstrator does have them (as does the original green one he built.) They're located behind the side vents. He used the donor's repeaters.
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 19, 2018 20:07:51 GMT
Side repeaters must be fitted (one on each side) within 2600mm from the front of the vehicle and meet the angles of visibility laid out in the IVA manual section 23 DIRECTION INDICATORS table 1. if you haven't done so already, the IVA Manual for passenger Cars (M1) is available for download on the GOV.UK website.
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 10, 2018 12:45:57 GMT
Nice pics, Mark. You er, didn't take any 'souvenirs' did you? (noticed front U/J of propshaft swinging in the breeze!!)
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 4, 2018 11:04:30 GMT
Also, it must not protrude more than 50mm from the external surface (Section 16 of IVA manual 'External Projections'- Reqd standard 19.)
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 15, 2018 22:50:59 GMT
With regard to the Cobra hinges, be aware that they are chamfered to take into account the transverse curvature of the boot (or in your case the bonnet) and therefore are handed.
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 14, 2018 10:42:35 GMT
Be careful with stainless braided rubber hose.
It's known that the ethanol in unleaded will react with rubber - causing it to perish prematurely. If its hidden underneath braid, you will not see the cracks developing - leading to possible leakage and fire risk.
I remember the rubber hoses on my first kit car I built were completely shot after less than two years - so its imperative they are inspected regularly!
When choosing rubber fuel hose, apart from suitability for fuel injection, ensure it is marked SAE J30R9 which supersedes SAE J30R6 and is reputedly more resistant to ethanol.
I've read that Super Unleaded doesn't contain ethanol - (though, apparently, it does in the South West) but don't know for sure how true that is. However, those that do use Super Unleaded reckon their hoses show no signs of perishing.
Food for thought.
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 11, 2018 17:16:18 GMT
Mountney do traditional woodrim steering wheels in various sizes which look very similar to Mota-Lita and are significantly cheaper. They also do a steering wheel boss to suit.
Plenty to be found on on ebay or Opie Oils are a good option.
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 11, 2018 13:51:39 GMT
Not used them myself but probably worth asking over on the locostbuilders forum for, if they are suitable, someone's bound to have used them. How far away is your nearest IVA centre - may well worth popping in and asking them? I would guess that provided you can present proof that they can take the pressures required, then, apart from being a little bulky, they'd be fine. What's your present connection method and what is the issue with it?
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 8, 2018 16:47:00 GMT
As you suspect, They're perfectly okay to use with IVA in mind.
However, I'd suggest to save a significant amount of money, you try S&J Motors to purchase them (they specialise in all Cobra brightwork.) Their ad in the latest edition of Snake Torque (Cobra mag) lists them at £48.00 (inc. VAT.) and will be correctly radiused for IVA.
They are a very old-school company and don't have a website or even an email address! so you need to call them on their landline 01257 262881
HTH,
Andy.
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Post by ancsportscars on Dec 30, 2017 13:17:36 GMT
Because I've had several weeks away from the workshop due to an operation on my hand, I have kept myself busy with updating the website and have added a blog to cover the building of the ANC Replicar demonstrator. ancsportscars.co.uk/Blog/I'm hoping to have recovered enough to start using my hand again and get back to it in the next week or so as obviously, I would otherwise have been a lot further on in the build at this stage. For anyone considering ordering a kit, please be assured this will not mean any difference in the lead time of 4-6 weeks from placing an order to it being ready for collection. Anyway, for those that follow ANC Sportscars on Facebook, the blog is essentially the same as the updates I post on there but with a little more detail in the text and additional pictures etc. In the meantime I would like to wish you all a very happy and prosperous New Year. Andy.
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 29, 2017 17:58:19 GMT
Are you absolutely sure there is no engine no.?
They are very lightly stamped/etched and any corrosion will easily hide it. I was convinced that mine had no number but a little patience and gentle abrading/cleaning eventually revealed it (with the aid of a decent torch!)
If you really do not have an engine number, then you will not be able to verify its age and will be subject to the full cat test at IVA. Does your donor have a cat fitted? if so and assuming you're using the standard ECU etc. then you shouldn't have a problem passing the emissions test anyway.
You could always stamp your own engine no. on the block and use that to populate the box on the form.
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 29, 2017 8:16:33 GMT
Find the flat space on block were the number should be.. Clean with brake clean let dry then go over the space with a black marker then rub the flat to get it off the surface you might then be able to see a number that is left in marker.. You will need a good light shined from the right angle. The flat space, look under the exhaust manifold rear. I have seen some on the intake side.. I used this method, but with a purple sharpie (permanent marker), and after a couple attempts a number did become visible (just) on my mk2 block. Did the same with fine emery cloth and brake cleaner. Gently rubbed until number was just discernible but still very difficult to read with naked eye. So took pic with phone and zoomed in and it is much clearer to read. Glad to say it tallied with the engine no. on V5c. Academic anyway as being a year 2000 engine will be subject to the full cat test at IVA.
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 19, 2017 12:21:52 GMT
Just read the latest on Deborah build (2) and saw your post about the tyres and speedo feed adjuster/converter, did you buy the kit from Oz? I'm guessing this is the kit you're referring to? www.jaycar.co.uk/corrector-speedo-module/p/AA0376Noticed that individually the price is £23.95 plus £20 shipping from Australia making them £43.95 each in total. However a bulk order does drop the price. Thus provided I can get five builders interested enough to give me a deposit, I am willing to make a bulk order and sell them for £39.95 inc. postage and packing.
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 1, 2017 8:49:29 GMT
I have had a bit more of a look at this and the car starting is being directly affected by the circled connector below what is part of the throttle body. When I have this connected there is a loud buzzing sound coming from the inlet and although the car tries to start it never catches. If I disconnect this cable the buzzing noise stops and the car starts but then dies almost immediately. That's your idle speed/air control valve. If you have a multimeter, check the resistance across the contacts in your photo. It should be between 10.7 to 12.3 Ohms for that particular valve.If that is ok then remove it from the throttle body and give it a few gentle taps with a hammer as it may well just be sticking.
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