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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 30, 2019 9:35:37 GMT
You are going to need another pair of hands as the dash panel's position is ultimately determined by the body (as well as the steering column etc.) - so the two need to be temporarily fitted together. First, fit the body's mounting brackets supplied in the kit as these will help support the body whilst you determine its 'best fit' position with regard to height, the dash and centralisation of the wheels in the arches etc. This is a fiddly job which requires a lot of measuring/checking and is not to be rushed but with a little patience you will get there. I do have some measurements which may help as a guide if required (but each body will be a little different due their being handmade) The dash is fixed to the tabs on the chassis - but I fully expect you'll have to standput something like a 20 - 25mm spacer between the two to achieve correct alignment.
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 24, 2019 13:33:40 GMT
Good to see you back on it. I wouldn't worry about spacer size until you've got the body mounted on to the rolling chassis - which will give you a clearer indication of the size required for the wheels to fill the arches better.
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 15, 2019 8:20:01 GMT
I think the NB Miatas for the US Market did have side repeaters. Mine certainly does and I it's worth the $8 test. The plan is to leave the side vents the way they are and affix the oem side repeaters in them and see if the combo works. I'll report back once they get here on how they work out. Hmmm...Confused now. In a previous thread regarding the problem you were having with the indicators and engine cutting out, you stated you didn't have side repeaters? 'Hazard warning switch is connected and when activated all four bulbs flash correctly. (I don't have side bulbs) Left turn - they flash correctly Right turn - flash 2x as does the check engine light in the dash. ' Read more: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/9813/boston-build?page=6#ixzz5iE6caM9d
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 14, 2019 19:25:24 GMT
Be aware, James, that as they are LEDs, and the fact you don't have side repeaters on your Miata donor (and hence Replicar), the lack of load will cause your indicators to flash at twice the required rate. They may also need to be mounted on angled plinths to ensure they are adequately visible (dependent on what your state requirements are?)
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 10, 2019 17:54:18 GMT
Ref mounting the horns: The two short tubes on the front of the chassis were designed to be dual purpose. To both mount the P/S cooling pipe (if P/S is retained) and to affix the horns. Simply Fit an 8mm rivnut in the open end of each tube to enable them to be bolted in place. You may have to extend the wiring to reach, however.
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 10, 2019 7:37:59 GMT
Very innovative, James. I guess that's what they mean by 'thinking outside the box'!! 😁
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Post by ancsportscars on Mar 4, 2019 20:53:37 GMT
Remove the stamped Vin from the bulkhead as well - thus removing all the body's I.D. That way, you can dispose of the body as simply scrap metal (otherwise you would have to give up the V5 and have it declared as a scrap vehicle - which you don't want to do!)
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 26, 2019 12:35:39 GMT
Congratulations, Scott. Well done!! Anyway, need a more detailed account of how the test went. Any small issues that you were able to fix on the day, etc?
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 21, 2019 8:40:58 GMT
Both left-hookers though - so may limit the UK market.
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 12, 2019 8:43:37 GMT
I know you say you have checked all earth connections - but have you checked the main earth to the P.P.F and remembered to re-fit/replace the braided earth between the engine/bellhousing and the Replicar chassis?
Admittedly, though, it does sound like a short somewhere. First simple test would be to see if the problem is a faulty bulb - so does the problem still occur if you remove the R/H indicator bulbs and then operate the indicator stalk?
Did you check that all circuits (inc. starting/running the engine) still worked each time you removed a wire from the loom? (if so, temporarily replace the last one removed and see if that helps.
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Post by ancsportscars on Feb 11, 2019 20:01:07 GMT
Are all 3 indicators on the r/h side illuminating? (i.e front/rear and side repeater? (if one is out then the reduction in load will cause the others to flash twice as fast.) Is the hazard warning switch connected up and operating correctly?
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 29, 2019 14:23:10 GMT
It'll be coming from the inlet manifold. Stick the handle of a large screwdriver to your ear and the sharp end against the plenum. It'll be loudest here. I'm guessing its maybe either the fuel pump noise transmitting up the fuel line or something like the idle speed controller actuating prior to start-up. Mine has the same hum - so I presume its perfectly normal.
One thing to remember ref wiring- is to retain the dimmer switch for the dash backlights - otherwise they will not illuminate. you can set it on the brightest setting and secure it up out of the way underneath the scuttle area if you don't want to have it on show mounted to the dash.
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 4, 2019 14:17:35 GMT
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Post by ancsportscars on Jan 1, 2019 12:11:30 GMT
I notice your VIN number has the powder-coating removed and is very clear. Mine is only about 50 legible with the powder-coating still on. Did you grind this off yourself or was is supplied like this? Thought I might just use my Dremel to re-etch the original stamping and then clear coat it with some lacquer, bit reluctant to take an abrasive disc to it now. I job I forgot before putting the body on. I supply it like this. Like you, Scott, when I had my first chassis for the demonstrator powder-coated, it came back with the VIN virtually illegible and had to use a Dremel engraver to re-etch it. Although it made it readable, it wasn't very neat. So, not wanting to make the same mistake with customers chassis', I had a chat with the powder-coaters and now once they have applied the zinc primer, they then mask off the VIN with heat resistant tape - before applying the coloured topcoat. When the chassis comes back to me, I simply peel off the tape to reveal a well-defined VIN.
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Post by ancsportscars on Dec 31, 2018 9:43:43 GMT
The proportioning valve sits inboard of the master cylinder on RHD cars (as in pic.) So you may have to make up new hard lines to link the two.
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