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Post by R2S on May 13, 2022 14:53:37 GMT
Any photos?
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Post by R2S on May 3, 2022 14:56:43 GMT
So some time on the car today and as per Andys suggestion I've decided to use the original fuel filler neck. I cut just below the flange which also removes the upper sprung flap. This is the sprung upper flap now surplus to requirements. Cleaned top of pipe to give flat finish Almost same diameter as lower end of Aston Filler cap, plan is butt joint both using a short piece of rubber pipe as connector. No plans yet to shorten other ends of Mazda pipe until I know exactly what is required. Also tidied up exposed hand brake lever fixings which had developed a coating of rust so long since I installed, cleaned off and a coat of clear lacquer should keep the rust away for a while. Internal side body panels all cleaned with overlaps joggled and ready for final fit. Ran out of time today but all ready for fitting next time.
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Post by R2S on Apr 8, 2022 17:29:59 GMT
Thanks Andy, I've been building so long I rely on this blog as a reminder of what I had planned, re the fuel filler think I can fit mine almost at the base of my Aston racing filler neck plus locating vent to rear should aide filling.
Not sure if its helpful for others (or upper seat belt fixing in ANC is moved) but the 2" TRS Westfield three point harness seems to be the way to go, a few quid cheaper than the standard three point as the top single strap is somewhat shorter, you only really use a couple of inches of the single strap in the Replicar with original mounting point. I may re consider fixings post IVA and add another so as to be able to use 3" TRS four point harnesses I originally bought
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Post by R2S on Apr 6, 2022 9:23:23 GMT
Thanks Andy did you remove the one way flap?
My filler is going exactly same location on rear deck so your layout would work but shouldn't breather be at filler point rather than half way down? Bearing in mind it passed IVA so assume not a problem re design but does tank fill ok without blow back or slow fill?
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Post by R2S on Mar 31, 2022 20:33:34 GMT
Some time since last update progress has been slow (nothing new there then )with no work between Sept 21 and Feb 22. As is clear from my build two steps forward usually result in one back and this is the case with the harnesses I bought. Previously wrote about how I'd bought 3" TRS four points, and was looking at relocating fixing point. After much deliberation, and as a structural engineer, I decided the single mounting is at the strongest point on the cross rail where it meets the stiffeners so four point harnesses replaced with 3 point 2" TRS items. Initially bought one to see if it was ok, this proved to be the case but the upper single strap before it splits into two is way too long and only a couple of inches is needed. After a chat with Gareth at GSM Performance it became clear that the three point harness produced for Westfields (with the very short upper strap) may be way to go, I have one on order just waiting delivery and I'll update once received. The other area where I've probably spent a disproportionate amount of time is the battery. I decided on a racing batter and decided to locate it behind the passenger seat low down on the floor. This area has lots of space as seat back is inclined. I decided I wanted the power cut off switch in the corner 'web' to the left behind the passenger but easily accessible from outside the car. This meant the +ve lead comes to the battery from the centre tunnel whilst the -ve comes from under the switch. This brought with it another problem, because of the position of the terminals on the battery and having +ve closest to tunnel terminals are very close to the rear bulkhead and there is the potential to short if anything dropped on +ver terminal touches bulkhead. After a bit of thought I've installed a sheet of perspex between battery and bulkhead also coloured this to indicate without doubt which terminal is which. Whilst working on the lower rear bulkhead I was also trying to work out how I could get the large connector block through the bulkhead into cockpit without drilling large hole. Answer was to cut a hole large enough for the grommet but slotted from bottom of sheet and use a cover plate to infill slot (hope that makes sense). I've joggled the cover piece so externally where it meets the frame its flush with the rest of the bulkhead. Lots of messing and trying new things with this lower panel meant there were a number of scuff marks so I thought I'd try to mimic machine finish, I think it looks OK my brother thinks its dreadful. Latest issue I am grappling with is fuel filler, racing style cap I've bought from CBS doesn't have the vent pipe I need to connect straight up to MX5 tank. Folk have offered up ideas but none are workable so I think I am going to resort to connecting original neck just below new filler using short piece of rubber if it lines up. Quick question for others, anyone know how to remove the flap in the top of the MX5 neck? I suspect once I move this section of pipe further away from fuel inlet fuel pump filler will no longer reach the flap. In terms of next steps I need to install the angles to the inner side of my 'no door' body to support the flat pieces that sit between chassis upper rail and body. Lower pieces from body to chassis now in place on body, original instructions are GRP body fits to 75mm extension of floor but having lifted my body on chassis it wouldn't reach so filler pieces were needed. I've fixed these with rivnuts and button head screws rather than rivets so as to be able to remove and get into cill panel (hope to have exhaust in passenger side some time in future). Whilst seats are not in car at moment all fixings and locations are done they are just out to give more room and avoid damage. Whilst they have heated pads installed i don't plan to connect them for IVA. Also made a start on fitting rear lights and whilst not wired these are all now in place. Due to fact I've moved body back on chassis the rear MEV frame is not long enough but plan to use ply panel between rear bracket and body to make up gap so again another new job on the list. Soon be time to drop body back on and lower car to ground then sort out lights etc.
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Post by R2S on Oct 4, 2021 8:22:43 GMT
Great work on the dash, are you leaving metal or painting with wrinkle finish (which is my plan)?
I had to move my dash 75mm to right to get dash, seat and rear fairing to line up (ocd).
Had a look at the blog some great shots (trying to upload photos is hampering any updates on my long build I've had the email from photo-bucket telling to to stop). I find some of the challenge is putting something together that can easily be removed re-installe with minimum pain if required, hence my dash fixings are slotted to allow some adjustment. Don't have a central support but having seen yours I think it might be a good move.
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Post by R2S on Aug 27, 2021 13:38:26 GMT
Looks stunning more incentive if ever I needed it.
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Post by R2S on Aug 4, 2021 20:58:37 GMT
Had a look and can't see the pipe with T you refer to spoke to cbs and they said they didnt have anything matching my description. Filler ordered and will come up with a solution for breather.
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Post by R2S on Aug 4, 2021 18:28:50 GMT
Can I ask is your petrol cap vented? Found one on CBS but no vent pipe to connect to MX5 tank.
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Post by R2S on Aug 2, 2021 8:13:02 GMT
Looking good, I was having second thoughts about AST1140 but it does look good in the sun.
Was na not quick enough?
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Post by R2S on Aug 2, 2021 8:06:12 GMT
How did you vent? I was going to use original MX5 filler but can't get clearance between body and tank so need another solution I dont have a boot lid (I have one piece body) so looking to place filler in centre of rear deck.
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Post by R2S on Jul 1, 2021 8:50:08 GMT
I see someone has destroyed the map? Shame as it was a great way to see who close by could provide assistance.
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Post by R2S on May 21, 2021 21:09:47 GMT
Another day at the workshop but no photos to share.
Dash board mounting brackets finished off with sliding clips to allow some adjustment back and forth. Had to try a couple of methods for fixing chassis side in place temporary until I can get in and drill.
First attempt to work in cockpit under dash upside down (the sort of stuff that was never a problem) but age means its not as simple as it used to be!
First effort using molecular metal as an adhesive, fail.
Second method used seam sealer to locate the inner face acting as adhesive will go back over weekend to fix dash bracket then again early next week to remove dash, strengthening dash side fixing by glassing in and chassis side bracket by drilling and bolting in place.
Ran out of time to establish bolt lengths for seat fixings but will do this when dash fixing, and order appropriate bolts and washers.
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Post by R2S on May 16, 2021 9:01:59 GMT
Bit more progress this week, body mounts to front of cockpit almost complete just need to cut out where plate extends into engine bay (will follow line of body as per line marked on surface. Finally got dashboard in position I want it, probably 75mm to the right of original. This meant I had to cut quite a lot off right end, face and top, to fit under body. Quite a gap between top of dash and body but plan is to fill this with foam (could be left open to act as heater ). Made sliding brackets to fit dash to tangs at either side of the car. Plan is to fit these using bonding to back of dash and to bolt to chassis, once bonding agent has gone off sliding fixing will allow adjustment. Brackets made, top face to be drilled and tapped, lower face to be slotted, just need wing nuts before fitting. Having raised body on chassis (to get over any issue of rear lights not being high enough for IVA I know have a problem:- 1. I can leave GRP body as is and bring lower edge into top of chassis bottom rail, this will make a square section visible from side albeit I can paint body colour or more likely black so as to 'disappear'. 2. Other option is to cut body horizontally and insert strip say 50mm wide. In reality I will probably do 1 for IVA and once running, and pre paint job will convert to option 2. (Hope that makes sense) Next weeks challenge is to fabricate the front body mounts, template is made just can't decide whether to use mild steel and weld up or to stick with the ali angle I have been using.
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Post by R2S on May 10, 2021 17:02:36 GMT
Back on the car in earnest now, seats fitted (temp until appropriate IVA bolts arrive). Original plan was to mount runners onto angle bolted to cross rails thereby avoiding bolts protruding through floor. Realised drilling cross rails would be almost impossible due to floor being in place so went for the original design and holes drilled. Law of sod came into play, four of the eight holes interfered with floor fixings (rivets) as installed, two had to be drilled out as hole was in exact same place others had to be drilled out to allow large washer to sit flush (these aren't in place yet so no photo at moment. Whilst getting seat ready to install came across first problem, the seats had been made in such a way that the standard MX5 runner bar to allow sliding couldn't move so had to take front of seat cut back and reinstall (wifes upholstery stapler was a godsend). Seats in place next potential issue, the harness mounting sleeve isn't central to the seat position which means one strap from harness will come to side of headrest whilst other will pass through between headrest legs. No idea if this is IVA compatible but will check out with fellow kit builders who have been there. Really pleased with central upper rear mounting brackets I've fabricated, I think others have used rubber bobbins and have body resting, I have gone opposite direction with brackets bonded to body and bolted to the rear supports on the chassis with a dense foam washer between both surfaces. Front upper cockpit mounts in mid fabrication but I've arrived at a design I am happy with, basically a pice of angle on the flat ali over front bulkhead to which is bolted an angled piece of 5mm ali again mounted using dense foam washer. Front mounting bracket templates made and plan to make these on this weeks trip to the workshop. Once all mounts in place next job is to fabricate the exhaust (rear section) which will connect to a standard MX5 system just rear of rear subframe (basically replacing MX5 rear box with something that fits the kit).
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