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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 31, 2014 14:08:59 GMT
I think you need to connect a battery to the rusty part and an anode, I've never tried it. An alkali like baking soda will also work. Google - electrolytic rust removal.
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 29, 2014 16:08:33 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 7, 2014 14:53:16 GMT
Work is progressing, hopefully body on - off for the last time! Got all the body mounts made up; Now need to concentrate on getting the chassis finished, clutch and brakes are bled, powered up the electrical systems - smelled smoke - spent 5 minutes sniffing round like an airport dog before realizing the farmers where burning stubble! Every thing works so far, should be able to do a startup soon, got the fuel filler connected so I can put petrol in it now. Exhaust shouldn't be too much of a problem, the guy I bought the donor told me it had a new cat fitted for the last smog test, didn't tell me it was installed by the worlds worst welder; Talk about 'Mallard Injected Guano', it is also out of line and hitting the PPF, so a bit of work there.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 24, 2014 14:39:20 GMT
Hi 'spudman', looks like you are well on your way to a great build, good story and pictures, thanks for taking the time to post.
Regarding the tank - I fitted 25 mm spacers under the rear of the tank to make it clear the sub frame.
BTW if you replace any of the suspension bushings - save the old ones, if you cut the rubber away the centers are great for making spacers.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 24, 2014 1:11:28 GMT
I'm still thinking of using the stock Miata filler neck, cap and vent hidden behind the headrest on the 'aero hump', I've made a bracket that bolts onto the RH upper seat belt mount. Still have to figure how to route the fill pipe about 140 deg to connect to the tank.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 23, 2014 15:15:37 GMT
Hi R2S. Np4wicked is right - there is no room above the tank for a wheel and dependent on how the exhaust ends up - I suspect a spare might not be possible in that 'boot' area either. Spare wheel location is a challenge for any car designer, even if you use a 'space saver' there is the question of what to do with a full size flat tyre is you have to use it. Several manufactures now just supply a sealer/inflator bottle and subscription to a roadside assistance service!
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 23, 2014 15:02:10 GMT
I also have a feeling that taking any pictures of the underside of a 15-25 year old Miata from SouthWest USA will result in being e-punched in the face from people in pretty much any other part of the world. I'm near-giggle at the idea of not having to clean up any parts. I lived in the NorthEast for most of my life. [/quote]
Having dismantled a UK MX5 and a CA Miata I have to admit it is great not having to deal with rust, underside clean up of the CA car is mainly a wipe over with WD40!
Dismantling a complete car is a great way to learn about the Mazda but does require some space and equipment plus understanding neighbours. One of the reasons I was able to get a deal on my CA car was that the sellers HOA were not happy with him having a ratty car sitting outside his house. It is worth considering a 'Miata on a pallet'.
As Stuart says removing the AC is easy, you will probably want to get rid of the power steering also, the first stage of tuning is always 'add lightness'.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 21, 2014 14:28:22 GMT
Hi twinsen, good to see another (potential) MEV builder in AZ, I'm near Bullhead City and in the middle of a Replicar build, see 'Replicar for Arizona' on this site. Agree it's difficult to find a Miata donor at a decent price but they are out there. PM me if there is anything I can do to help. Cheers, John T
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 14, 2014 17:18:18 GMT
Haven't tackled the headlamp covers yet but have been making progress elsewhere, pretty much finished the '91 RHD/'94 LHD hybrid wiring. The '91 dash and harness does not have a VSS or MIL, have not been able to find any documentation for the '94 ECU but I think the speed sensor is only used on JDM cars for top speed limit although it could be used for cooling fan control. The MIL/Check Engine light is useful and required for emission test so I'll figure out where to put it. Got the Kirkey vintage seats, I think they will be good, the Miata runners seem to be the best for mounting. I'm mounting the battery on the LH side behind the rear firewall; The battery carrier lowered; And raised. This is the temporary setup I'll fit a proper 'drop down' battery carrier later. The master switch is mounted on the LH rear web; The brakes are all overhauled; A friend that actually makes the stainless steel oil caps for the modern Aston Martin race cars has made me a cap for the BP-4 engine; Working on the body fit now.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 11, 2014 2:19:44 GMT
Nice work James! I've been playing with dash/body position, not ready to bolt it down yet but been getting on with other stuff. I will update my post soon.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 30, 2014 13:41:12 GMT
I got the Arizona chassis powder coated in light grey by a local company in Wales, looks good but shows marks easily, found a spray can with a pretty good match at Walmart, useful for touch ups and colouring extra chassis parts.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 15, 2014 14:48:06 GMT
Great job guys!
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 10, 2014 14:14:42 GMT
Question.. Are the lamps to be adjusted with self adjust unplugged so to set a normal starting point.. then the self adjust plugged in to do its thing.. Does your car have self levering lamps. This is a difference in EU and US regulations, in the EU any load carrying vehicle, even the smallest hatchback has to have driver adjustable headlights, usually a little dial near the lighting switch. They are not required if the vehicle has self leveling suspension. I believe driver adjustable headlights are illegal in the US.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 8, 2014 13:37:29 GMT
Have you worked out yet how to cut down the perspex headlamp bubbles to the right sized/shape for both sides in order that the profile is the same/match? No - that's the next challenge!
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 8, 2014 3:59:22 GMT
I wanted to try out the 160mm hole saw for the headlamps, worked great; Now I need to find a use for a couple of very large 1/4" GRP washers! Trial fit of the body and dash, looks like I need to lower the steering column a bit, need to get the seat fitted to check knee room. Starting to get the knack of body R & R;
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