|
Post by jason82 on Feb 23, 2019 21:44:10 GMT
Well done Russ. I would keep the existing loom, it's so much cheaper & is so simple. If you are new to wiring, if a wire goes to the indicator, mark it as such, then the same with the brake lights etc. You have the wiring going to the tank, then all you will have is feed wires & grounds.
If you were careful enough you could run 7 core trailer wire to the rear end for the lights (excluding tank wiring). This is what a custom loom is based off, then all you need to do is run a few extra ground wires & splice in a few extra feeds. With the Exocet running led rear lights, the draw is pretty low, so no problem.
When you come closer to the time send me your loom & rear lights & I will make you a plug in loom which will eliminate any problems, simply plug in & away you go.
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 24, 2019 19:06:24 GMT
Thanks Jason, sounds like a plan and a great offer, cheers.
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 24, 2019 19:39:00 GMT
Where are the hub nuts? Behind a massive dust cap. Nope. there is actually a seam, which when widened with a small screw driver, pops off the smaller than realised dust cap.
I had always thought that when advised to loosen wheel hubs before brake removal it was so you could stop the wheel from spinning. Nope. Wheel hub nuts dont spin, its the hubs that spin. Doh! I figured the actual reason. When you come to sorting brakes, you prob have the car on axel stands. therefore when giving the hub nut the beans with a breaker bar, the whole car wobbles dangerously.
Thought I would try my Impact Gun\Driver - which whipped them off easily without affecting car at all.
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 24, 2019 19:43:42 GMT
Onto the loom. Instructions say drag into passenger area! How do you get the engine bay fusebox through that small hole. Likewise the interior fuse box, cannot fit through into engine bay.
Ok, so literally 10 mins later, afer a row of small drill holes and then larger drill holes and then my meaty tin cutters, I made a larger hole. Dragged the whole loom into the engine bay and therefore hopefully negated the need to diconnect loads of wires from engine etc.
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 24, 2019 19:48:58 GMT
Onto the pedals, here are some pics so you can see the c clip and spring clip. Once disconnected then unbolt. Then you will find the clutch cylinder and brake servo are free in the engine bay.
Disconnect a few hoses and that another bit of space created
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 24, 2019 19:57:19 GMT
Just a couple of questions please. If this is the charcoal cannister, then what is this smaller greasy looking one on the opposite side.
...and finally for cannister delete. I think I can basically join 1 to 5 and thats it ? so no need for 2, 3, 4 and the block that 1 and 2 go to ? Thank you
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 25, 2019 20:44:05 GMT
Radiator removed now, which was only held in by two top bolts. Pretty much ready to get under car and start undoing the chassis bolts ready to lift on Friday.
Just a couple of queries please: Is this black canister to do with the AirCon ? and can I delete it. And this block is obviously to do with the brakes... maybe a propertional valve ?
|
|
|
Post by hammy3601 on Feb 26, 2019 8:38:21 GMT
1st pic is PS fluid so bin it if you are binning the PS.
Im assuming the other pic is a mk2.5 thing as Ive not seen it, someone will be along to say mate.
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 28, 2019 8:42:24 GMT
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Feb 28, 2019 18:25:51 GMT
Radiator removed now, which was only held in by two top bolts. Pretty much ready to get under car and start undoing the chassis bolts ready to lift on Friday.
Just a couple of queries please: Is this black canister to do with the AirCon ? and can I delete it. And this block is obviously to do with the brakes... maybe a propertional valve ?
hi Russ, the black canister is your power steering reservoir and the block is fuel pressure regulator your fuel line should be connected to it . if your not keeping the power steering you can get rid of the canister but as far as i'm aware you need the fuel pressure regulator. hope this helps, cheers paul
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Feb 28, 2019 22:10:20 GMT
Brill, thanks Paul, really helpful.
Finally ground through the rear bolts. Disconnected rear brake lines... can’t really find speedo sensor, but will check carefully when slowly pulling body off. Forgot the rear most front bolts as tucked away in little wells/hollows, but now they are off.
I have helpful pics to post tomorrow.
And, would you believe it..the body lifts at front and back..woohoo. Now to wait for friends/delivery of hoist from friend to get it off.
Can’t believe I did it. It was kinda easy looking back, but also darn difficult in some places. Thanks to everyone so far...
|
|
|
Post by snowbird1 on Mar 1, 2019 15:13:02 GMT
Just a couple of questions please. If this is the charcoal cannister, then what is this smaller greasy looking one on the opposite side. ...and finally for cannister delete. I think I can basically join 1 to 5 and thats it ? so no need for 2, 3, 4 and the block that 1 and 2 go to ? Thank you The way the EVAP system works is: fuel tank petrol fumes are trapped by the carbon canister, when the engine and O2 sensors have warmed up the ECU will cycle the purge valve (the block in your picture) and check if the O2 sensor goes rich or lean, if rich it will continue purging. If you disconnect the purge valve the open circuit may set an OBD fault and cause the Check Engine light to come on. If you are going to eliminate the canister it is probably best to leave lines 2 and 5 open to atmosphere, if you connect 1 and 5 together you will be applying manifold vacuum to the fuel tank – not a good idea!
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Mar 2, 2019 8:57:04 GMT
SnowBird, thanks for your timely advice. Will ensure connected like you say. Cheers.
Here are some pics of the separation after grinding the bolts out. Thank goodness there was room...
Also unbolted clips that hold rear brake line on each side. Quite easy to access
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Mar 2, 2019 8:59:53 GMT
and major separation after some jacking up both ends.... got my hoist to assemble now and get it off
|
|
russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
|
Post by russhowell on Mar 4, 2019 20:06:50 GMT
The body is off...
...holy heck, was that heavy. 6 of us. Thought the front would be lightest, but guess i forgot that glass is heavy, so those 2 guys struggled. 4 of us at the back, but sent one guy to help at front. Just me on one corner... only just made it...
So here is the skate. I have a question about the VIN plate. Do i just need this plate I cut off or this stamped section as well ?
Now to refurb just the rusty bits....ah, that will be EVERYTHING then. lol.
|
|