Yes took off the uprights and used a press to squeeze hubs into bearings in the uprights... then the shafts pushed through easily when refitting the uprights... brakes are all on, so wheels going on this weekend ready for body collection this week i hope..
Please can I have some clarification regarding ABS/non Abs cylinders and servo. I bought a non abs master cylinder to swap out my abs type but the section of the cylinder that mates to the servo/booster is a different diameter.
Does this matter. Does it need to make an air tight seal? The bolts will hold it on....
Instead of buying bits that don’t match , can I buy a non abs servo and master cylinder together but say from a 1.6 1999 car? Or do just need to search for a non abs master cylinder with correct diameter section for mating to the servo?
Been messing about with the loom and removing sections that I think cant possibly be needed! Going to stop before I go to far and check engine still starts, then take a bit more out. I collect the body tomorrow, so will then be able to really get cracking.
Triffic - along with the countless other fustrations of this build (and not even got the body yet), i have found that my front sway bar drop links are incorrect.
I bought an all round set from ebay...loads like it and the part checker stated was for my car etc etc. Not the cheapest or most expensive, only to find that the front drop links need to be angled at 120 degrees, not 90 degrees. So the dollar spent and the masking and spraying need to be repeated.
So to be clear - my Mk2 2.5 front drop links need to be angled at 120 degrees
Fit the floor today. I wanted to rivnut it, but some of the rivnuts started to spin when inserting bolts, so riveted instead with a layer of rubber between as didn’t want the mess of Tiger PU, and also wanted to allow fluids to drain out not pool. Primed and sprayed Plasticoat to underside just to dampen the ‘ting’ of stones hitting. It makes a rubbery coating like you find on some laptop cases etc. Thanks to Paul, I was informed that I only need to run one fuel line as return not required, more on this later when I document what to do with hoses\connections.
Therefore drilled a line of rivnut holes and fitted 8mm and 15mm pclips into each hole (will find better picture).
Quite frustrated today, mainly with the order of build in the MEV build Guide. It doesn’t matter how often you read through the guide or forum, you will forget things or not understand their importance.
Therefor you see I had buttoned up my wishbones, hubs and brakes, only to find that when fitting wheel arch brackets you need to:
Front: use original 3 holes that the dust shields used. During the mess of disassembling its easy to forget this and if you have a stuck bolt to just grind it off. Luckily I only had one ground off which meant drilling and tapping. Bit awkward as hub spindle in the way and does not allow rotation of the tap for rethreading.
Rear: Probably like me you will need to grind a bit of the ABS nubbin to create a flat spot that is in line with the top calliper bolt fixing. This is bloody wonderful to realise that you have to cut into your nice powder coat, and wondering how much you need to disassemble. Well, after covering all paint work I attacked with grinder and did a half good job, and only had to remove drop links to then angle a drill to bore an 8mm hole.
Personally I think the rear wheel arch instruction should feature nearer the front of the build guide.
You don’t have to have wait to see how it might line up as the top calliper bolt is used and your new hole can be drilled prior to paint\powder coat whilst in an easier position to handle.