Remove the stamped Vin from the bulkhead as well - thus removing all the body's I.D. That way, you can dispose of the body as simply scrap metal (otherwise you would have to give up the V5 and have it declared as a scrap vehicle - which you don't want to do!)
I faced similar in my build and know what you mean. My view was that I'd never heard of anyone failing any test as a result of rusty sub-frames and I'd read that rust is 10 times the volume of its former metal - so it looks huge but isn't necessarily a lot of lost metal.
Prior to protective coat; I chipped rust of with a hammer's pointy end and found that the metal always gave a very reassuring 'ring/clang' rather than the hammer coming anywhere near causing damage.
Another approach would be to get the rusty items and an MOT tester alongside each other and see whether they'd pass it?
Note that my long running build has yet to pass IVA so I can't guarantee hitting things with hammers is the best approach ... tho' it often is.
You'll be surprised how well the wishbones etc will clean up. I only had to bin one wishbone. I have a few spares kicking around, cant remember what but let me know how it goes. Also Aurora in Aldershot are great for blasting and or powder coating mate.
Power Steering Delete - Removal I have been gathering information for this task as no one source had it all. Various people said just remove it all, without specifying what all the components are. Other sources didnt quite have the detail, so here is a starting point and I welcome additional good information so we can help others.. You can discard: Black Plastic steering fluid reservoir held on by simple bracket The pump and belt - 2 bolts. One of them long that passes through a bracket fixed to engine with 3 bolts. Not required to remove this bracket but easy to do although i had to grind to get access to bottom bolt head. All pipe work
Detach the steering rack and cut off all pipe work. 2 methods: Either leave a little pipe showing on each bolt and crimp the ends or replace with solid bolts. You are only stopping dirt from entering.
Remove the solid metal washer\valve inside for which you need to refer to youtube, but basically dissemble, slide out rack, cut out valve with grinder.
Info from MEV "Stripping the rack is easy so you can remove the centre ring to make sure there is no resistance. There will still be slight slack in the input shaft however as it is in 2 halves, some weld this but heat can easily slightly distort the shaft and then it will bind.
ABS Delete - Removal Removing this saves an awful lot of pipework as pipes dont need to go via the ABS unit, and can go straight to brake cylinder. You need to replace master cylinder for a non ABS type.
You can discard\sell the ABS unit which is the large block as shown below. You can hit off or crack with a cold chisel each of the reluctor rings (look like cogs) from each hub and remove the ABS sensors.
I have checked with MX5 Heaven and can confirm that you can now buy slightly cheaper non ABS hubs and brakes as they are the same, just without reluctor rings
Post by Mills Extreme Vehicles on Apr 2, 2019 8:55:56 GMT
Hi Russ, just to be clear on a couple of points. ABS. The master cylinder needs changing not the brake cylinders. Sensor rings on the drive shafts just knock off. PAS. Stripping the rack is easy so you can remove the centre ring to make sure there is no resistance. There will still be slight slack in the input shaft however as it is in 2 halves, some weld this but heat can easily slightly distort the shaft and then it will bind. Hope this helps, regards Stuart