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Post by amc890 on Apr 26, 2019 7:32:01 GMT
I have an unlabelled single wire plug coming from my starter loom. It has a white plastic reinforcement straw taped to it. It’s not the one that plugs into the starter, that’s already on. Car is an Exocet, donor was a 1999 Mk2 MX5 with abs, no a/c.  Is it possibly the oil pressure sensor wire? |
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Post by themorgster on Apr 26, 2019 9:05:09 GMT
Is it possibly the oil pressure sensor wire?
[/quote][/quote]
That will be it, cheers! I couldn’t see the little sucker under there.
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Post by themorgster on May 6, 2019 18:39:58 GMT
Finished off securing the handbrake cables and fuel lines. I wrapped the fuel lines in nylon hydraulic protector spiral wrap, so there should be no chance of them rubbing on anything. I took a picture for the IVA man first!   |
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on May 11, 2019 8:13:42 GMT
Looks very tidy. Please can you post a link for the fuel pipe you used and the small air filter,
Cheers
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Post by themorgster on May 11, 2019 14:21:19 GMT
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Post by themorgster on May 11, 2019 14:26:47 GMT
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Post by themorgster on May 11, 2019 14:42:39 GMT
I’m getting close to getting it started now so thought it prudent to get the brakes working first! Filling the brake fluid from empty is a bit harder than replacing fluid in the system. Harder still when you are doing it solo! For those facing the same problem, this is how I did it. 1. Tighten all the connections in your brake system. 2. Make an air-lock catcher with some clear tubing and a small jam jar. Punch a hole in the lid and feed the tube in to the bottom. Half fill with brake fluid. 3. Connect the tube to the rear calliper bleed valve opposite the master cylinder, and open it. Place the jar above the calliper. 4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid, leave the lid off. 5. Pump the brake pedal slowly. Yo should see bubbles in the jar, then fluid in the tube. Keep going until the bubbles stop coming. Close the bleed valve and remove the tube. 6. Follow the procedure (#5) above for all callipers, working towards the one closest to the master cylinder. I had to go round and do them all again to get all the air out, but it did work. It helped that I haven’t fitted the side panels or interior panels, so I could see the jar and tube from the drivers seat for all 4 callipers.   |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 11, 2019 16:25:39 GMT
Great idea mate
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1055
Newbie
Posts: 13
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Post by 1055 on May 13, 2019 0:31:07 GMT
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Post by themorgster on May 13, 2019 7:17:27 GMT
The £2995 was for the basic kit (chassis, body panels, bolts etc and aluminium for the floor, tunnel and fire wall). I believe that was excluding VAT (sales tax), so another 20% needs to be added. I also bought the seats, lights, radiator brackets, fly screens and dial pod from MEV, which are all extras.
I have only just started on the electrics, so I may (or may not) make a cover for the tray. It’s covered by the hood in any case, so might just put a weather seal across to stop dirt & water coming in from the engine bay.
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Post by themorgster on May 14, 2019 22:27:40 GMT
I managed to get the car running this evening - wooo hoooo!!! Thankfully the smoking has been fixed by replacing the valve stem seals, so that’s good! It is way too loud (knew it), so I’ll be fitting a dB killer at some point. I do however have two problems... 1. It idles at 2000rpm, then drops to 1500, then (eventually) 900. If I rev it, it sticks at 2000, then 1500, then 900rpm. If I unplug the idle control valve it stays at 900rpm and returns to 900 quickly when revved. I’ve given the throttle body and valve a good going over with carb cleaner, but no joy. I’ve tried to set the idle with the screw and the G & TEN in the diagnostics box connected, but I screwed it all the way in and couldn’t get it below 1800rpm. Could be the temp sensor, cheap enough to replace... I’m hoping it’s not the valve (I can hear it opening and closing when I unplug it etc). Any other ideas? 2. Battery light is on, a quick check across the battery when it’s running returns 11.5v (12.1v when not running), so my alternator isn’t doing its job! I think my grounds are good, is my alternator stuffed?  |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 15, 2019 9:59:14 GMT
2. Battery light is on, a quick check across the battery when it’s running returns 11.5v (12.1v when not running), so my alternator isn’t doing its job! I think my grounds are good, is my alternator stuffed? Is the alternator from your donor? Are you using stock ECU? Mk1 alternators arent ECU controlled, Mk2 ones changed to ECU controlled. HTH |
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Post by themorgster on May 15, 2019 10:06:12 GMT
It’s an ECU controlled Mk2 alt from the donor. I am running the stock ECU. There is a suspicious white plug coming from the positive battery connector that I haven’t found a home for... could it be that?
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Post by hammy3601 on May 15, 2019 10:31:22 GMT
It’s an ECU controlled Mk2 alt from the donor. I am running the stock ECU. There is a suspicious white plug coming from the positive battery connector that I haven’t found a home for... could it be that? If you mean at the alternator end then yes, there is an agitator wire mate that plugs into the alternator, do you have a photo? |
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Post by themorgster on May 15, 2019 12:52:44 GMT
No it’s the battery end, it’s a white square plug with 2 wires, I think it’s the boot aux power. The ground and alt plug are attached on the alternator end. Maybe it’s as simple as belt slip... I had to replace the water pump gasket the other day, so had the belt off. I’ll check when I’m not at work or in the pub!
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