1055
Newbie
Posts: 13
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Post by 1055 on May 15, 2019 18:06:48 GMT
Doesn't the IAT affect the charging rate on the NBs? Based on your above idle issue, I would rule out a faulty IAT before banging your head against a wall about the alternator charging.
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Post by themorgster on May 15, 2019 19:47:27 GMT
I would never have considered the intake air temp sensor! Cheap enough to replace as a matter of course. My (lowish mileage) donor was in a sorry state when I got it, so the IAT (for the alternator) and water temp sensor (for the idle control valve) are on order. Thanks!
The drive home (40 miles) with the donor was the scariest of my life, and my first car was a Fiat Panda, which was made out of tin foil and reject lawnmower parts!
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Post by bewgy on May 17, 2019 9:30:44 GMT
I am running the same set up as you for the exhaust, mine is load by maybe with the 90 db noise limit. Did you measure it?
I would be interested to see what you fit to lower the noise.
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Post by themorgster on May 19, 2019 20:49:01 GMT
I am running the same set up as you for the exhaust, mine is load by maybe with the 90 db noise limit. Did you measure it? I would be interested to see what you fit to lower the noise. Mine is 125dB at 5200rpm - mental loud! I’m going to fit a dB killer (or two) they are perforated funnels that fit in the exhaust with a grub screw. |
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Post by themorgster on May 19, 2019 20:59:06 GMT
This was the white plug that stopping the battery from charging. Found the other end, plugged it in and bingo! - all is well with the alternator.  I have been considering comfort for some time, but couldn’t find reasonably priced seat padding, until now... I bought 2 canoe / kayak seat pads for £12.50 from eBay. They look to be good quality and have a self adhesive backing.   |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 20, 2019 6:40:29 GMT
Glad it was an easy fix on the alternator mate
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Post by themorgster on May 20, 2019 21:33:20 GMT
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Post by hutchey on May 21, 2019 19:19:21 GMT
Hi, can you let me know which outlet on the brake servo heads to which wheel please? I've lost my pics.
Cheers
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Post by themorgster on May 21, 2019 20:10:39 GMT
Hi, can you let me know which outlet on the brake servo heads to which wheel please? I've lost my pics. Cheers Assuming you have a non-abs master cylinder the pic below is the correct set up.  |
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1055
Newbie
Posts: 13
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Post by 1055 on May 22, 2019 15:38:22 GMT
IT should be noted.. the B-> D on his above diagram is simply a pass through and not necessary in the junction block!
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Post by snowbird1 on May 22, 2019 19:32:56 GMT
I think the reason for the front brake connections is that in event of a front brake failure the proportioning valve will allow full pressure to the rear brakes.
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Post by themorgster on May 23, 2019 23:40:13 GMT
I’ve started reducing the loom, it’s not as scary as it appears. I accidentally cut 2 wires which I soldered back together immediately. Top tip: be methodical and don’t rush.  |
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Post by themorgster on May 28, 2019 9:08:33 GMT
It’s also a good idea to wire up the lights to make sure they work before you start reducing the loom, then check them regularly!   |
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Post by themorgster on Jun 4, 2019 20:59:55 GMT
The wiring has to take a back seat at the moment... the car is running crazy rich, sooty spark plugs, hesitation, won’t rev past 5000rpm, exhaust stinks of fuel, the works! I’ll be working my way down the list of usual suspects, but where to start? I’ve recently replaced the O2 sensor and the temp sensor... what’s next to look at? Timing, Coil pack, throttle body?
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Post by themorgster on Jun 7, 2019 8:57:18 GMT
I pulled the codes off, and are as follows:
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve circuit Malfunction
p1250 Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Circuit
P1497 EGR Valve Motor Coil '1' Open or Shorted
p1497 EGR Valve Motor Coil '2' Open or Shorted
p1498 EGR Valve Motor Coil '3 Open or Shorted
p1499 EGR Valve Motor Coil '4' Open or Shorted
p1523 VICS Solenoid Circuit
I'm fairly sure none of these are causing my rough / rich running problem as most of these are due to me removing the solenoids & EGR and was running fine previously. I'm thinking that the timing belt has slipped. What's the best way to check the timing without taking the cam cover etc off?
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