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Post by Fin on Feb 4, 2017 14:02:02 GMT
VIN for sure, but it looks like you've left the top mounts from the shocks still attached to the body as the springs are free. These mounts hold the springs in compression, and will probably be needed even for new coilovers.
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Post by sheffjohn on Feb 4, 2017 14:04:42 GMT
Before I scrap the body .What do I need to remove Exhaust hangers ?? VIN ?? Anything else useful ?? I cut out the engine bay vin aswell as the info plate on the drivers door shut. Take pictures of before after and during the cutting process, just so the IVA process can't question anything ! I took all bolts and brackets I could easily remove, as your bound to need odds and sods during the build. Any relays or fuse blocks bolted behind dash or in the engine bay. All earth straps. Fuel tank.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 4, 2017 14:48:41 GMT
Before I scrap the body .What do I need to remove Exhaust hangers ?? VIN ?? Anything else useful ?? The brackets for the front brake hoses may be useful.
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Post by chrisbucks1 on Feb 5, 2017 7:42:50 GMT
Thanks for the advice re body stripping.
Next question
While I have the engine on the stand what is recommended it terms of replacing seals etc ??
My plan at the moment is timing belt water pump and a good clean anything else recommended ??
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Post by sheffjohn on Feb 5, 2017 8:59:49 GMT
Thanks for the advice re body stripping. Next question While I have the engine on the stand what is recommended it terms of replacing seals etc ?? My plan at the moment is timing belt water pump and a good clean anything else recommended ?? Rear crank seal (behind the flywheel), just because it's a bugger to do at any other time
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Post by chrisbucks1 on Feb 6, 2017 14:44:10 GMT
The pipe going into the front subframe am I right in thinking it was from the charcoal canister??
Should I protect all the threads with studding when sending parts to be powder coated ??
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Post by mikeeyboy on Feb 6, 2017 18:13:45 GMT
It depends, if you tape them yourself they may just come off when they sandblast them.
I'd make sure you get a decent coaters and ask them to tape it all for you prior to coating advance better option
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Post by chrisbucks1 on Feb 6, 2017 18:27:08 GMT
It depends, if you tape them yourself they may just come off when they sandblast them. I'd make sure you get a decent coaters and ask them to tape it all for you prior to coating advance better option Thanks Mikkeyboy i will take your advice !!!
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 7, 2017 7:51:18 GMT
Yes the pipe into the front sub is a vent for charcoal filter..
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Post by chrisbucks1 on Feb 7, 2017 13:32:10 GMT
If I fit these do I need a spacer ? Also anyone used them on an Exocet do they work well. I'm thinking that even though they are budget they will be much better than the worn out items I'm replacing.
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Post by Fin on Feb 7, 2017 18:58:10 GMT
I've just bought the same ones. Certainly look good, althought I wish they had been orange! I've got 32mm spacers on and the front wishbones still need to be cut, and the bananas fitted, so not quite sure of the ride height range with them.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 7, 2017 20:05:18 GMT
Those should work for a DD around town and some twisty bit.. .. I would get better ones for racing..
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Post by chrisbucks1 on Feb 7, 2017 22:21:10 GMT
I've just bought the same ones. Certainly look good, althought I wish they had been orange! I've got 32mm spacers on and the front wishbones still need to be cut, and the bananas fitted, so not quite sure of the ride height range with them. Bananas??? Forgive my ignorance what's that ??
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Post by davetherave on Feb 7, 2017 22:33:25 GMT
I'm looking at changing to GAS golds for my suspension as have been told they are very good
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Post by Fin on Feb 7, 2017 23:17:56 GMT
chrisbucks1 Do a quick search for "bananas" in the forum, and about the third item will be NJ's build, showing the picture of how the crosspiece in the upper A wishbone has to be cut out/back and replaced by the bolt in curved bracket (banana) that comes with your kit. Failed to insert link to his build, but you'll find it OK.
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